(Click to Get There)
|Neat climbing up the left line of the slab, in spite of the lichen.|
|Start at the left edge of the slab, before it gets really chossy. Move up and across to the first bolt, then climb neatly up to a ledge using good holds in dikes. A scratchy smear or two gains the next dike, which is good enough for a heave and a mantel. Belay at the tree on the left or continue up the easy but dirty slab to a distant lower-off. Ab off or try a route on the top wall (might as well).|
|Dirty climbing up the right line of the slab.|
|Start at a short flake near the right edge of the slab. Pull up this then climb dirtily up the slab to the ledge. Pull up to the next dike and mantel onto the top slab. Belay at the tree on the left or continue up the easy but dirty slab to a distant lower-off. Ab off or try a route on the top wall (might as well).|
|The pleasant-looking flake in the right side of the slab is unfortunately filthy. Shame.|
|Follow the flake to a rotting lower-off where the angle eases. Ab off or continue to the top wall.|
|Good sustained climbing up the left edge of the slab. There are some crunchy holds on the crux section, which is 10b if you find buried treasure.|
|Start about 3m left of the groove left of the central rib. Climb up then head left to a short flake below a big dike (possible Friend 1.5 - the second bolt is quite a way from the first!). Pull onto the dike then make a sustained series of moves up to and along the slanting slabbier section up left. The angle soon relents. Pad easily but carefully up and right to the main tree.|
|The best route on the slab, low in the grade.|
|Start just left of the groove left of the central rib. Climb up and slightly left to the big dike, right of the flake of One. From the dike move up, step right and move up again to a vague scoop - a good, sustained sequence. A final tricky move gains the lip of the easy top slab. Mantel and pad up to the main tree.|
|Another excellent route, the easiest on the slab.|
|Start on the left side of the central rib. Pull up and move onto the front of the rib. Climb easily but carefully up to the first bolt. Move up and pull over a steeper section using good holds on the left. Continue past one tricky section to gain the easy top slab and then the tree.|
|Basically a long variation start to Three or Five.|
|Start on the right side of the central rib, below a tree. Make a steep pull on a jug and a tricky mantel to gain the tree. Move almost onto the front of the rib (keep left of the tree five metres up), then climb easily but carefully up and right to the first bolt. Another runout on good holds leads to the second bolt and a groove. Move up and make a technical step up into a scoop. Pull out of this to an easy section between the finishes of Three and Five. Take your pick (left is easier!).|
|A sustained route with a steep start.|
|Start a couple of metres right of Four, behind a young larch. Pull up steeply to reach big holds and easy moves to slabby ground. Climb almost direct by increasingly tricky moves to a final technical sequence to gain the easy ground below the tree.|
|Easier climbing just to the right, with a good finish.|
|Start up and right of Five, where a ledge runs in from the right. Step onto the ledge and move left to the bolt line right of Five. Climb pleasantly up on big holds to the final steeper section. Good moves up this on small sharp holds lead to the top.|
|Another excellent route.|
|Start as for Six. Step right at the third bolt to follow a separate boltline. After a steep pull out right, climb relatively easily to the steep final slab. A good sequence up this leads to the tree.|
|Easier than it looks, but with a scary steep bit low down.|
|Start about 10m up and right of Seven at a short steep wall leading to a pine on a terrace. Climb the left edge of the wall past a crumbly block to the terrace. Make a high step off this onto the slab using good holds on the left. Climb the easier slab above to a tree right of the main tree.|
|Inner Bottom Arete||5.10a||9m|
|The crumbly slender right face of the short steep wall.|
|Start behind the aforementioned tree, and use it (10b if you don't) to gain good but gritty holds that lead quickly to a tree on a terrace. Ab off, scramble off to the left (facing in) or climb a pitch up the slab behind the terrace.|
|Inner Top Slab||5.10a*||20m|
|The left line up the slab starting from the terrace on which Inner Bottom Arete finishes. To approach, either climb Inner Bottom Arete or scramble up the gully on the left.|
|Step onto the left edge of the slab behind the belay and make a long reach for a flake. Pull up and mantel onto a ledge. A tricky move up the centre of the next slab gains jugs leading up and right to a dirty low-angled slab. Pull under a fallen but living tree and skitter up the slab to a good tree at the top with a grotty lower-off. Ab off.|
|Inner Top Arete||5.9||20m|
|A poor climb up the right edge of the slab starting from the terrace on which Inner Bottom Arete finishes. To approach, either climb Inner Bottom Arete or scramble up the gully on the left.|
|Step onto the right edge of the slab behind the belay and pull up and mantel onto a ledge. Weave away near the right edge, dodging the hard and interesting bits. At the top steep section, pull out left and go diagonally left across the dirty slab to finish at the same tree as Inner Top Slab. Ab off.|
|The left-leaning dirty line of RCC bolts.|
|Start at the left edge of the slab. Step up to a flake and go diagonally right until it is possible to pull left to an attractive clean slab. Pull neatly up the centre of this to a peg in the roof. Step left and mantel to twin bolts that may be hidden under vegetation. If you can't find them, make a dirty pull up to a good tree with ancient lower-off.|
|A big, wandering, varied pitch.|
|Follow RCCBigleft to its last-but-one RCC bolt, then swing through the roof on the right on big booming flakes (possible belay). Move up to and over a steep slab on real bolts then follow a groove easily up and right to a lower-off under the top hang. Ab off (OK on a 60m rope).|
|A short, steep trip over the lower overhang.|
|Start about 10m up and right of PetzlBigleft, under an overhang. Climb easily up to this, step right, pull over and mantel to a lower-off in the centre of the slab. Lower off or continue up PetzlBigleft or RCC_Corner.|
|The big, central RCC line that skirts two hangs and dallies with the central corner.|
|Start about 10m up and right of PetzlBigleft, under an overhang. Climb easily up to this, follow a dirty break up and right and pull over using pockets. Step left and climb the juggy slab to the next hang. Swing right and pull through at its narrowest point, then follow the bolts diagonally left to a lower-off under the next hang. Ab off (30m).|
|The centre of the slab. Very enjoyable.|
|Start about 15m up and right of RCC_Corner, directly under the slab. Climb over dirty rock to a ledge. A steep pull of this gains a flake where the bolt line forks. Follow the left fork all the way up the centre of the slab to twin bolts under the roof (no tat). Ab off (25m).|
|Another enjoyable slab.|
|Follow Slimleft to the flake where the bolt line forks. Take the right fork to a crumbly flake and follow the corner till it is possible to pull round the arete on the right onto another slab. Climb the center of this to an anchor where the face rears up. Ab off this (25m) or continue up the face using another crumbly flake to a lower-off on a tree. Ab off (30m).|
|A bit dirty, but generally nice, steep juggy climbing.|
|Start about 10m up and right of Slimright in the arms of a fallen conifer at a bolted dike. Climb the dike on good holds to a break. Move up to the next break then make crux layback moves up a short crack to pull onto a slab. Go easily up this and broken ground to a rotting lower-off on a tree. Ab off (25m). There appears to be a continuation pitch up the crack and slab behind the tree - looks easy, but I haven't done it.|
|The very attractive bolted face.|
|Pull up easily to the main part of the face and follow the bolts by convoluted moves on dinky holds. There is an ab point on the summit block.|
|Kame Iwa Crack - Turtle Rock Crack||5.10a**||15m|
|The obvious clean crack between the two bolted faces. Take a rack.|
|Start up XXX, but pull left onto a ledge as soon as possible and follow the straight crack all the way to the top. Ab off.|
|Hen'un - Lonely Cloud||5.11a***||32m|
Two good pitches, worth another star, if not for the off-width start. Take a Friend #4 for the off-width and a Friend #½ for the traverse.|
The route starts at an obvious short wide crack that starts on blocks down and left of Kame Iwa Crack.
Pitch 1. 5.11a (20m) Thrutch the crack to a ledge. Clip the bolt then shuffle right to a decent pocket. Pull scarily onto the slab to a choice of lines: left takes you to a mantel onto a rugosity followed by a mantel onto a dike and a hand traverse right to the stance; right steps right and pulls direct on fragile flakes to the stance. Right looks easier, but the tree is in the way.|
Pitch 2. 5.11a (12m) Make a very thin step up to clip a bolt then another thin move right to a ledge. Step left and climb the face (left of Kame Iwa Crack) past 3 bolts to the top.
|To descend, ab off the block back of the top of the route, or drop down and ab off the tree at the top of Kikkou Meguri.|
|Kikkou Meguri - Tortoiseshell Tour||5.10d****||35m|
|A hard start leads to a lovely delicate traverse along a tiny dike.|
Start left of Hen'un, under an undercut flake. Gain the flake from a block on the left. Pull up (crux - think laterally) and slab pleasantly to a line of bolts leading left. Follow these round the arete to easier climbing back right to a tree with anchor. Ab or lower off.<|
You might have to faff around a bit to get your draws if no-one is following the route. /td>
|The RCC line running direct from the bottomless flake of Kikkou Meguri to its ab tree.|
|Follow Kikkou Meguri to its 4th bolt, but continue direct up the line of RCC bolts to the ab tree. The flake and overlap are very fragile. Ab or lower off.|
|Chouwa no Gensou||5.10a**||110m|
A good sustained route, not to be taken lightly. Take a full rack, with extra medium and large Friends (and a couple of monsters if you want to protect the top pitch).|
Start up and right of the main cracked wall below a wide crack right of a corner.
Pitch 1. 5.10a (25m) Pull over blocks to reach the crack and climb this to a pedestal on the left. A sustained pitch.|
Pitch 2. 5.9 (20m) Squirm awkwardly up the short wide crack behind the belay in to a water-worn corner. At its top, traverse left to a good ledge with 2 ab trees. You can belay here, but it is better continue easily over crumbly blocks to the next bigger, sunnier ledge. (This also gives you a great view of the main wall. Which might be a bad idea, because it makes you feel weedy thrashing away up a mere 10a. Anyway...)
Pitch 3. 5.10a (20m) Pull up to the second tier of this ledge and climb a short steep corner on its left. Pull right past a ring bolt then climb a short thin crack to easy ground and a spacious ledge. The rock is poor, but the gear is good and the moves are great!
Pitch 4. 5.9 (20m) Chimney up between tree and rock to gain a dike. Traverse right past a bolt to a flake. Climb this till it peters out then cross the slab back left to a corner. Follow this till stopped by a roof then swing left to another spacious ledge.
Pitch 5. 5.8 (25m) Climb the huge flake on the right of the ledge by a dainty layback or an obscene thrutch. There is no gear between 5m and 20m, unless you have monster cams (Camalot #6 and above). The bolted line on the slab to the left is 5.10b.
A good varied route, but unbalanced with the crux pitch being much harder than the rest. Take a full rack, with extra medium and large Friends and a lot of slings.|
Start on a large terrace overlooking the approach gully, gained by following a faint path up and left from a small bay 20m down and left from the big cave/alcove. There is a black memorial plaque on the terrace. Tie your second to a tree in the vicinity of a large flake left of a small bower up and left of the plaque.
Pitch 1. 5.8 (35m) Pull easily into the bower, throw a big Friend into the flake than make a strenuous undercling up to reach the juggy top of the flake. Hand traverse left to some small trees. Move up and right over easy ground until a tricky pull up a crumbly slab gains a bolt belay at the base of a shallow corner.|
Pitch 2. 5.10c (25m) Sustained laybacking past a couple of bolts eases after about 10m. Where the flake runs out, step left to another flake, then pull easily up to Enkai Terrace and a satisfyingly huge tree.
Pitch 3. --- (50m) Walk left and pull onto a vegetated rib. Slalom up through trees to belay when progress hits a headwall. Try to spot the ab tree near the top of this pitch. You'll be thankful later!
Pitch 4. --- (20m) Scramble down and left to a short corner. Pull up this to a spacious belay ledge of monster Jenga blocks below another short corner. Watch you don't drop any gear into the deep cracks.
Pitch 5. 5.7 (30m) Climb the corner to a big ledge, then pull right up good cracks to a groove/ramp. Follow this to a small corner and pull up to a ledge left of a chimney-line.
Pitch 6. 5.7 (30m) Pull right into the slanting chimney and climb this and its steeper continuation to another huge ledge (possible belay). Walk to the obvious slab and climb its right edge to the top (tricky first step). Take a moment up top to spot the first ab point down the main face (down and left, facing out).
|Sanzoku 79 Tasogare Route||5.10d**||160m|
As for Kinshuu Kanatoko, a good varied route, but unbalanced with the crux being much harder than the rest. Take a full rack, with additional large (#4) Friends for the chimney on Pitch 1, and a lot of slings. Most of the bolts, particularly on the first two pitches, are old and poorly (i.e. shallow) drilled. Clip whatever you can reach and extend them if necessary.|
Start as for Kinshuu Kanatoko on the large terrace overlooking the approach gully, but about 10m to the right, at the left edge of a triangular pinnacle leaning against the main slab.
Pitch 1. 5.6 (14m) Scramble up behind the pinnacle, with one awkward move to pass a tree. Belay below a prominent dirty crack leading to a chimney.|
Pitch 2. 5.9 (32m) Pull onto the slab right of the crack and climb diagonally right till directly below a flake. Mantel up to the flake, move up to its left, then traverse left to the chimney. This provides good jams and gear at first, leading to a final nasty flounder at its top. Belay on the square ledge with low trees, directly below a line of ring bolts.
Pitch 3. 5.10d (35m) Climb the slab, very thin at first, till below a headwall. Traverse left past some joke pegs (and good cams) to a junction with Kinshuu Kanatoko. Follow Kinshuu Kanatoko to the huge tree, but continue up and right to the main part of Enkai Terrace.
Pitch 4. 5.8 (34m) Climb the obvious crack that starts straight then veers left. This is much more awkward than it looks. Where the crack kinks right, climb the continuation to belay on good trees on the left.
Pitch 5. 5.8 (20m) Climb easily up to wedged blocks and make a steep pull over these onto a wide ledge. Traverse right to the arete, make a thin pull round and traverse into a corner to belay.
Pitch 6. 5.10a (25m) Climb the corner to a big ledge. The face above this is stiff for a couple of moves but relents soon enough. Continue more easily to the top.
The normal descent is to ab to the start of Pitch 6, then ab twice on double ropes to the bottom. But I haven't done this because I only had a single rope, so I abbed as for Kinshuu Kanatoko:
|Saryousen - Left Ridge Climb||5.10c**||187m|
Overall, a good varied route, but with some dodgy rock and bolts in places. Take plenty of quickdraws and slings. You don't need any cams or wires.|
Start in a gully, gained by a convoluted scramble up and left from the main path. You should have an impressive slab with some bolted lines on your right and a dirty slab on your left.
Pitch 1. 5.8 (50m) Pull left onto a big dirty dike and traverse easily to a pleasantly situated belay point (a pitch climbs directly up to this anchor, but it is very mossy). Continue up the slab, past a tricky move to get off a ledge, to where the slab steepens. Step right into a gully full of trees and follow this till it becomes a ledge. Use a tree to pull up a rock step to a big ledge below a short steep wall. You can easily split the pitch in a number of places as required.|
Pitch 2. 5.8 (15m) Use a tree on the left to get established on the wall, make a balancy move up, then head right and up to belay in a corner.
Pitch 3. 5.10c (15m) Traverse the break right under the bulging face to a well situated triangular ledge (with belay point). Make a hard high step right using the arete and a tricky move up to a dike. Traverse left and pull up to a spacious ledge.
Pitch 4. 5.10b (17m) Climb onto the boulder that you are belayed to, then step off this and climb the face just left of the arete to belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 5. 5.10a (17m) Clip the bolt on the left, then drop down to a small hollow flake. Pull onto this, then make a bold pull to a better flake. Continue up and right to a short crumbly slab and smear up to a ledge. Clip, then climb a groove rightwards, dodging a big wedged boulder, to belay in a trough on huge trees.
Pitch 6. --- (13m) Traverse the trough right to where it becomes a chimney and pick a suitable tree to belay on.
Pitch 7. 5.10a (30m) Head as far back into the chimney as you dare, then squirm up till it becomes, joy of joys, an off-width. Levitate somehow to grab a small tree and pull into an easy-angled groove. Follow the groove up to find good belay trees (there are many options, depending on how close you want to be to your struggling second).
Pitch 8. --- (30m) Scramble by any line to the huge terrace below the summit blocks.
|To descend, head up to the peak, spend 15 minutes trying to find an ab point dropping down over the back, give up, then choose a tree and ab to the col between the back of the rock and the far right edge of Touichimen. If you find the right ab point, the ab is 15m and you arrive at a clear path. If you don't, be prepared to scrabble about a bit: I ended up abbing about 30m and bushwhacking right to the path. Follow this path down then round to the right (clockwise) of the rock to the col. The path then drops steeply down (fixed rope at one rock step) before eventually heading right to become the main path that you arrived by.|
2 good slab pitches followed by an off-width corner. The slabbing is great, but the rock and bolts could be better (E2 5b in the old money). Take a rack with at least 2 big cams (big as in Camalot #4 or bigger).|
Start at a bolt belay at the top of a short wooded section of slab left of your arrival point.
Pitch 1. 5.10b (30m) Smear up to an RCC bolt then push on past good gear in a rickety flake to another RCC bolt. Smear up to more gear in a booming flake then smear again to an overlap and a bomber cam. Follow juggy holds right to a short shallow corner, then step out left below a tree. Pull up and belay on bolts behind this.|
Pitch 2. 5.10b (25m) Step out left to flakes (ring bolt on the right) and follow these till they end at an RCC bolt. Continue easily to a second RCC bolt and make hard moves past this to a bolt belay in the middle of the slab.
Pitch 3. 5.10a (25m) Move left and up into the corner and thrash away to its top. Hell on earth, if you ask me.
Pitch 4. ---- (15m) For those that like to top out. Scramble easily up the slope then cut out left to the summit.
If you haven't had enough of wide cracks yet, there's another one on the pyramid up and right. It goes at about 5.9, but you'll need a Camalot #5 or #6. You can escape left through a cave at about 12m or go for glory (ab tree on top).
|To descend, ab the route.|