Campsite Crags

This is a name I came up with for the towers and faces sometimes poking out of the back of the woods at the back (west) of the campsite. Viewed from across the Family Rocks, they look like this:

Campsite Crags

Roll your mouse over it to see crag names. Click to jump to the crag description.

Campsite Crags Map

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
1 Oyayubi Iwa
2 Te no Hira Iwa
3 Otonosama Iwa
4 Tanuki Iwa
5 Kitsune Iwa
6 Saikou Roof
7 Sanka Monogatari Slab
8 Komochi Iwa
9 Castle Augh
10 Hotoke Iwa
11 Kaminari Iwa
12 Amida Iwa
S Suishou Slab
W Whisky Bottle
K Kujira Iwa


Oyayubi Iwa - The Thumb

The pinnacle in the woods left (south) of the upper campsite has always struck me as more of a circumcised dick than a thumb, but there you go. A small crag with more than its fair share of quality routes.

Take the left fork on the righthand bend on the track that sweeps round the car park. This leads past a washstand and through the cluster of rentatent platforms into woods. (Don't follow the left, downhill fork after the washstand). The path climbs steeply to the right and weaves round a bouldering area to the crag. If it takes more than 10 minutes, you're lost. From this approach, the crag appears as a broad crunchy slab. Other paths lead up from the lower campsites and across from the higher campsites and things can get confusing. For Ogawayama Layback and Koyubi Iwa, skirt the crunchy slab to the left. For Crazy Jam and Maginot line, skirt the slab to the right.

Koyubi Iwa - The Little Finger

The first two routes are on the smaller slab to the left of the pinnacle.
(There is an unclaimed line up the short slab a few metres up the gully to the left. I make it 5.10b and worthwhile, but it needs a lower-off.)

Gogatsu no Yuki - Snow in May 5.10c*** 24m
A very good slab climb that should become more popular now it's got real bolts. The next step will be a real lower-off.
Start at the bottom left of the slab. Make a couple of fingery, slippery moves to reach a good pocket, then climb up and right to a flake. Stand on this, then pull into a scoop. Pull out of this onto the rib (crux) and go up to a big ledge. Make a steep pull onto the top (right) slab using good flakes then go up and left to a lower-off. If you're not happy with the lower-off, you can easily pull up to a good tree.

Surprise Ending 5.10b* 9m
A variation finish to Gogatsu no Yuki. The surprise appears to be that someone's nicked the bolts.
Start on the big ledge two-thirds of the way up Gogatsu no Yuki. Move left onto the slab and climb it to the top, using the left arete and flakes in the slab. Ab off a tree or drop down and use the lower-off of Gogatsu no Yuki.

Meanwhile, on the Thumb itself...

Ten Made Agare - Climb to Heaven 5.12a** 30m
The thin crack down and right of Ogawayama Layback is good, well-protected and clean, but rarely climbed. Small wires and cams needed.
Start on the large boulder down and right of Ogawayama Layback. It may be better to belay in the gully down and right of this. A desperate sequence gains a good flake hold in the crack. Easier, but less elegant, moves lead to a lower-off. The even more rarely climbed continuation is 5.11b.

Za Kante - The Arete 5.12c 10m
The arete right of Ogawayama Layback. Incomplete and rarely climbed.
Step out right from the trench of Ogawayama Layback and climb the arete to a traverse leading back into it (Ogawayama Layback, not the trench).

Ogawayama Layback 5.9**** 20m
A proverbial classic, though it should be renamed "Ogawayama Jam". Most people omit the top pitch, but it's well worth topping out. Take any number of Friends 1-3 and expect a queue.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Start in the remarkably convenient trench at the foot of the striking corner. Layback a couple of moves, then climb on glorious jams to a belay under the big roof.
Pitch 2. 5.8 Make a rising traverse left under the roof to a big ledge (possible belay). Climb the centre of the final wall and pull left over the overhang. Hang around and enjoy the position, then ab off.

Za Raito - The Right 5.10a* 11m
An exciting variation top pitch to Ogawayama Layback. Rarely climbed.
From the top of the corner, step out right on small holds to reach a break with a decidedly dodgy looking block. Swing quickly right round the arete and continue to the top in a good position. Ab off.

Platonic Love 5.12c** 10m
The arete to the left of Ogawayama Layback on its left. Balancy and scary.
Step off the big block onto the arete. Layback the arete and crimp the face to a spacious ledge and lower-off.

China Girl 5.12a* 10m
A filler up the face between Platonic Love and Maginot Line. The bolting is quite confusing.
Start at ground level and climb the centre of the face easily to the first bolt. Continue almost direct on very fingery holds to a lower-off.

Maginot Line 5.12a*** 10m
A slightly longer, but still harsh arete. There's a pun in the name, but it doesn't work in English.
Start at ground level and climb easily to the first bolt. Hard moves on small, painful holds lead out left to the arete proper and a stopper move to stand on a thin rail. Palm and crimp to a lower-off.

Crazy Jam 5.10d**** 20m
A gritstone route, miles from home. The crack goes straight through the rock to become Ogawayama Layback on the other side. It provides some interesting sound effects. More precisely, you will, for the people on Ogawayama Layback. Take lots of Friends 1-4.
Start under a small overhang. Layback round this to reach sinking jams. That's supposed to be the crux. For me, it was the hideous off-width section above that's marked as 5.9 in the Japanese guides. Squirm up this to reach real holds. Move right and pull up to the top. Ab off.

Te no Hira Iwa - The Palm

One of those crags whose routes were good the day they were first cleaned and climbed, but have since been returning to nature.

Te no Hira Iwa

From Oyayubi Iwa walk left (facing in) for 200m at the same level on the hillside. The crag consists of a big green slab on the right and a scruffy but neat (is that possible?) two-tiered slab on the left.
The first route is a sign of some of the naughty noughties desperation that afflicted Ogawayama new-routing:

Omoide no Bista - Bista on My Mind 5.10b** 17m
Start just right of centre of the big, green, low-angled slab. Much better than it looks, but get in quick, before it disappears under vegetation.
The initial slab is harder than it looks, with barely a hold to shake a stick at. The angle eases till a break is reached. Make neat crux moves to stand in the lowest pocket on the top slab, then more neat moves up and right to a lower-off.
The next route starts on the right of the lower tier of the next slab along. By way of contrast, the routes on this slab are a sign of the naughty nineties desperation that afflicted Ogawayama new-routing.

Macron I 5.10b 13m
Start at a slim slab on a terrace in the gully left of the big green slab. The main pocket takes a Friend 3, but it's right next to a bolt.
Use a semi-flake and pockets to reach a faint dike. Move up, step left round the top blob into a gully-type thing, then flounder to a terrace. Ab off, climb another route or walk off. Spoilt for choice.

Endless Summer 5.10c* 22m
Award yourself an extra star if you ab down and clean this first. Two if you can get somebody to do it for you. I cleaned and climbed it in August 2000 and had a fine old time.
Start just up and right of Macron I. Climb the carpeted slab right of a tree-filled groove (or the groove itself) to a good flat foothold above the first bolt. Now climb the arete on its right side past an interesting variety of bolts to a tree at the top. Sling but no hardware.

Unclaimed 5.11d? 15m
The steep line down and left of slab left of Macron I. Very crunchy, painful rock.
Start round to the left of Macron I, below a short steep arete. Snatch up to the arete and slap up this to easy, dirty ground. Continue carefully to a lower-off.

Fighting Macron II 5.10d* 15m
The slab left of the upper arete of Endless Summer. Take Friends 2-3.
Start on the terrace above Macron I in the centre of the slab. Gain and mantel a thin break and traverse right almost to the arete. Make a thin pull to a second break then follow the slab past disjointed cracks to a tree at the top. Very sustained till the second break.

Love is Over 5.10d* 18m
The slab left of Fighting Macron II. Very nice if/when clean.
Start on the terrace above Macron I. Pull up to the thin break, then move left to a dike. Up and left past a tree stump to a dike, then climb the slab in a direct line to the top.

Otonosama Iwa - The Lord

The obvious black and white streaked face at the back of the upper campsite. Steep and strenuous routes all round.

Follow the main track up from the carpark to the second big righthand bend. Follow the broad track going straight off this into the woods. This then narrows and veers right and uphill to a bouldering venue called Kujira Iwa - Whale Rock. The path weaves uphill between the boulders (still some yellow tape on trees) to the rock. Look for the fixed ropes dangling down from the start of Imjin Gawa. (The path heading directly uphill from the second big righthander leads to the bouldering venue called Whisky Bottle). If it takes more than 15 minutes from the carpark, you're lost. There is also a (relatively) decent path leading up from the back of Oyayubi Iwa (Crazy Jam side).

Routes are described from right to left from Imjin Gawa, which is usually where you hit the crag.

Fixed ropes leads to a tree at the foot of Imjin Gawa. You can back this up with medium and large Friends. (Don't worry, you won't need them for the route!)

Imjin Gawa - River Imjin 5.11d**** 15m
A superb crack pitch up the steep streaked wall. Take a rack.
Start on the slope below the face. Tricky moves up the initial crack lead to a tasty pull right into the second. After good moves up this, the crack fades and the face rears up. Go up then reach out right and mantel onto a ledge. Lower off. (There are two more pitches - the easy slab behind the lower-off, then a 10d crack on the left, but nobody ever does them.)

Super Imjin 5.12b*** 20m
A direct finish to Imjin Gawa. And a pig of a move, too.
Where Imjin Gawa swings right, climb direct by thin moves to a lower-off.

Amazon II 5.11a* 30m
The face left of Imjin Gawa (not the streaked corner - that hasn't been claimed yet). Rarely climbed.
Start on a narrow ledge across to the left of Imjin Gawa. Climb easily to where the face steepens. Pull up, then go right and up to the top and a lower-off.

Daihinmin Route 5.7* 30m
A three-pitch dawdle that lands you in a nice spot. Take a rack. Daihinmin is a card game.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Climb an easy slab with some help from tree roots to a steep section. Pull up and left and continue easily to a comfortable belay ledge.
Pitch 2. 5.8 Step down and right and make a steep pull across the side wall onto sloping ledges. Follow these right to a nicely positioned belay.
Pitch 3. 5.7 Follow slabs and cracks pleasantly to the summit. Ab off.

The next two routes are best gained by walking up the gully behind the crag. Skirt the crag round to the right till you hit an ancient fixed rope by a notch. The steep clean slab above you is Ninja.

Yokisenu Present - An Unexpected Gift 5.10a*** 10m
Off-width Hell. Strangely popular. Take at least one monster Friend. Whether you belay at the base of the crack or in the gully below Ninja depends on your second's willingness to balance across a dead tree to a precariously wedged chockstone.
Pull into the cleft, drop into squirm mode, switch off, and hope you're at the top when you switch on again.

Ninja 5.14a** 20m
A keepsake from Stefan Glowacz round on the back face of Otonosama Iwa. For all we know, this could be an excellent route. It certainly looks nice enough. Looks a doddle, actually. Three ascents to date (since 1987). Talk of it being 'only' 13c turned out to be just talk.
Ask somebody who knows, then lower off.
The walls left of Ninja and the short steep face just up and right contain various unreported bolt lines. Also somewhere round here is:

Nemuri Hime Iwa - Sleeping Beauty Rock

A small crag featuring a prominent leaning corner.

I'll put more about the location if I ever go there.

Kanakorin 5.10b* 10m
Climbs the prominent cracked corner. Take a rack.
Climb the corner through a bulge to the top. "3-dimensional climbing", it says here.

Tanuki Iwa - Raccoon Dog Rock

This is the continuation leftwards of the line of rocks of Otonosama Iwa. The routes tend to be big, steep, juggy and crunchy.

The most reliable approach is to first get to Otonosama Iwa and then follow the line of rocks into the woods up and left for 100m. Alternatively, you can follow an indistinct path from the back of Oyayubi Iwa. There is a neat clearing at the base of Jinenjo. It should take 15~20 minutes from the campsite.
The routes are described from right to left.

The first two routes climb a steep black cracked face and are much better than first appearances suggest.

Tsukiyo no Tanuki - Raccoon Dog by Moonlight 5.10d** 55m
Dodging the roof on Pitch 3 is way harder than the rest. Take a rack and treat the rock with suspicion.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Start at a left-facing corner near the right edge of the crag. Climb the scruffy slab to the corner. Climb this and the face above to an overlap, then pull over to a bolt belay.
Pitch 2. 5.8    Traverse left, move up, then traverse back right to another bolt belay.
Pitch 3. 5.10d Climb the easy crack behind the belay to an overhang, step left and pull over to another bolt belay. Ab off.

Gekkou - Moonlight 5.11c** 20m
Gloomy and uninspiring.
Start 5m up and left of Tsukiyo no Tanuki below a bolt ladder leading up and then right. Climb the steep initial wall by applied thuggery then traverse right to a small roof. Pull over and go direct to a bulge. The (crux) pull through this brings you to the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of Tsukiyo no Tanuki. Lower off.
Up and right of the afore-metioned clearing is the broad, bulging, ochre streak of Tororo.

Tororo - Grated Yam 5.12a*** 23m
Powerful moves on painful and sometimes crunchy rock up a very impressive line. This and Working Face were part of a competition. You can get cams in here and there, but you'll probably just make the drag worse for yourself.
Start on a rock ledge below a corner leading up to the bulges. Climb the corner, then pull right and weave through a series of ever-increasing bulges to a lower-off on the arete.

Long Long Ogawayama 5.11a*** 42m
Climbs the cracked face left of Tororo, then switches to the right face for a spectacular finish. Steep, with lots of jugs, rests and bolts (16, to be precise). As with Tororo, you can get cams in here and there, but the bolts should be enough.
At the base of the attractive bolted face of Jinenjo is a housebrick (no, seriously) cemented to a small rock podium. Start right of this and climb the cracked face to a ledge. Step right to an ab chain (belay possible), then climb the steep face to an overhang. Pull out right to a superjug and mantel to a ledge. Now step back left to a hidden crack and sprint to the top chain. Two abs to get down, unless you brought an extra rope.

Jinenjo - Wild Yam 5.11b** 18m
The very attractive open face just up and left of the housebrick. Take a Friend #1 to protect the first clip.
Climb the pleasant-looking bolt ladder left of Long Long Ogawayama to a lower-off above a ledge. Harder than it looks.

Tan-Tan-Tanuki 5.10b* 15m
A contrived line up the crack left of Jinenjo. Take a rack. The name is the title of a kids' song.
Climb the crack left of the arete to a bolt. Move up and left to a corner, then up and back right to a lower-off. (I'm not sure if this means the lower-off of Jinenjo.)

Changing Corners 5.10c* 23m
Another contrived line, this time stringing some corners together. Take a rack with a couple of bigs (up to Friend #5). (I haven't done this, so take the description with a bucketful of salt.)
Follow Tan-Tan-Tanuki to the corner, but continue up this to its end. Move left into another corner, then back right to another. Finish at an anchor on the left. The direct start to the main corner is 10b.

Working Face

This is a small clean face about 75m left of Tanuki Iwa.

From the clearing of Tanuki Iwa, follow a faint path left at the same level to another clearing below an undeveloped face. Continue up then left past a rock step to slim ledges below a steep bolted face.

Working Face 5.12b** 14m
The righthand line. There is a tag on the first bolt.
After a dank start, climb the centre of the face to a lower-off. One of those "strenuous and delicate" jobbies (and the rock's good).

Kaitaku Oo no Deshi - The New Route King's Apprentice 5.11b** 14m
Another steep route on good rock. Take a few small to medium cams.
Climb up to a ledge on the left then climb the left edge of the face to a crack. Up this to a lower-off. The bolted line on the arete is unclaimed.

Kitsune Iwa - Fox Rock

The next big rock up and left of Tanuki Iwa. There are three routes on its front (east) face, one on its side (south) face and two on its back (west) face.

From just left of Jinenjo, scramble up the gully to the next substantial face on the left. It is also possible to circle round Working Face, but this makes getting your bearings harder. (There is a lot of so-so rock around here, with the occasional unreported route.)



The East Face

Fox Tunnel 5.10b* 20m
Incomplete.
Haven't seen this yet.

Chakkari Donpei - Wild Yam 5.12b* 20m
Incomplete.
Haven't seen this yet.

Ogurasan ha Ogurasan - Say Ogurasan, Not Ogurasan 5.12a* 20m
Incomplete. Take a rack.
Haven't seen this yet.

The South Face

The face (in effect a single wide corner) is gained by a short slog and thrash up and left of the East Face. Cut in to a narrow ledge leading to a corner. Look for sawn off trees and branches as a hint.

Nanryou Inari - South Ridge Sushi 5.10c* 20m
Hard to find and of dubious worth. Take a set of Friends. (Inari sushi, if that's what the name refers to, is the sushi you get packed into brown tofu envelopes.)
Climb the slab left of the corner (optional wide crack on the left) to a ledge. Make a steep pull using a good flake to get into a bolted groove. Neat moves up this lead to a series of big steps and the top. Ab off.

The West Face

The routes are gained by a further slog and thrash up and then right of the South Face. Basically you circle round the back of the rock to a col then drop down to a hacked entrance leading to a terrace running left (north).

Nyandorii 5.10c* 18m
A mixed bag, just about worth finding. Very sustained climbing.
Start at a short wide crack leading to a smooth easy-angled slab below a short, steep headwall. Thrutch the crack to good holds and pull out left below the slab. Make an improbable rockover onto this and then climb with increasing difficulty to steep finishing moves up the headwall. Top out for a great view. Ab off.

Yota Kitsune - Fox on the Rum 5.11b* 17m
A meandering line with a couple of neat moves.
Start a few metres left of Nyandorii, just right of a cleft. Climb easily for a few metres to where the angle steepens slightly. Zig-zag between the oddly placed bolts to a final steep section and the top. Lower off.

Psycho Roof Area

(Actually, it's Saikou, but Psycho looks better.)
The crag mainly consists of two slabs split by a gully, the right-hand, narrower slab being capped by an obvious cracked roof. As you head left, the crag becomes steeper and more cracked. Some of the routes are returning to nature, but the popular ones remain clean.

Follow the wide track (Kamoshika/Panorama Course) up from the car park, then, at the second big right-hand bend, follow a path uphill into the woods to a bouldering area called Whisky Bottle. Continue right of this and head left where the path steepens. You should hit a broad crunchy slab with a steep right face hosting some unreported bolt lines. Head left to the routes. 10 minutes from the car park.
Alternatively, you can follow a path up and right from the bottom of Otonosama Iwa (sensible) or thrash up the wooded slopes direct to the crag (silly).

Psycho Roof Area

Fun Fun Fun 5.10c** 50m
Perhaps once. The traverse on Pitch 1 is way harder than the rest. Take a rack. The top chimney takes nothing smaller than a Camalot 6.
Pitch 1. 5.10c Start at the lowest point of the crag. Climb cracks up the scruffy slab to a short corner-crack on the right. Climb this and follow a crack along a ramp to a short bolted dike heading out across the right wall. Hand-traverse right and pull up using a hidden pocket, then move up and right to belay on trees. You can foot-traverse the dike at 10d if you want.
Pitch 2. 5.8    Step left to a crack and climb this to another tree belay.
Pitch 3. 5.9    Traverse insecurely left to a narrow chimney and climb this even less securely to more trees. Ab off.

Saikou Roof - The Excellent Roof 5.10d*** 45m
Getting dirty low down, but still excellent. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.7    Start at the lowest point of the crag. Climb the scruffy slab to a corner-crack on the right. Climb this to a traverse left to a stance.
Pitch 2. 5.7    Traverse back to the corner. Climb it for a few metres then go left again to a stance.
Pitch 3. 5.10d Traverse back to the corner again and climb this to the roof. Traverse left under this, then climb direct to the top. This pitch is notorious for rope jams.

Bypass 5.11b* 12m
An uninspiring problem that no-one can be bothered with.
From the top of Pitch 1 of Saikou Roof, climb a flake leftwards, then pull up the steep face to the stance of Pitch 2 of Saikou Roof.

Southpaw 5.11c** 12m
An alternative Pitch 3 for Saikou Roof.
Climb to the roof, as for Saikou Roof, but then pull right using a thin handcrack, and follow this through the roof to the top.

Kasama no Pinkie - Kasama's Pinkie 5.10c*** 13m
A short route with good moves up the disappearing crack on the left of the buttress. Could do with being longer. Take a set of Friends for the crack.
Climb the tasty jam crack steeply at first to a mantel onto the slab. Where the crack ends, clip the bolt, kiss it goodbye and scrape up the slab to a lower-off. A tough variation swings out right on a half-dike low down to climb more of the crunchy slab.

The next routes climb the slab left of the gully. Most of the bolts were replaced in summer 2003. The slab gets dirty due to the tree cover, but never drastically so.

Sanka Monogatari - Mountain Hut Story 5.10d** 23m
Interesting moves up the shallow corner low down and a bold finish.
Climb the shallow corner on the right of the slab past bolts and ancient pegs till it is possible to pull left onto the slab (crux). Climb up to a flake (wobbly Friends), then pull out left and go direct up the (once) cleaned line to a lower-off. The newly added direct finish up the arete is cleaner, but not as much fun. It is also possible to drift left to the lower-off on Nadeshi.

Nadeshi 5.11a** 19m
The centre of the slab, gained from the right.
Start just left of Sanka Monogatari. I think you're allowed to pre-clip the first bolt by leaning in from Sanka Monogatari. Neat, steep moves lead onto the slab and a scratchy smear gains a good flakehold in the overlap. Pull over and make a thin move up to a flake. Continue boldly on good holds to the next bolt, then pull over a bulge to gain a lower-off on a small ledge.

Shiraito - White Thread 5.10c** 16m
The pleasant slab left again. Crux low down.
Start at a shallow corner. Climb this, then pull left into a more prominent corner and pull over a bulge onto the slab (or go straight up the slab - harder). Continue almost direct to the lower-off of Nadeshi.

Saikou Roof Kengaku Route - Saikou Roof Inspection Route 5.9* 16m
The dirty slab left again. The line doesn't appear to be fixed. There are long-forgotten continuation pitches up the slabs and cracks behind the belay.
I have to be honest and say I've never been able to work out where this goes.

Unreported 5.10c** 20m
The steep slab left of a small corner.
Climb direct to a good undercut, then make a long reach and a hard pull to gain better holds. Continue past a short groove to a lower-off.
There are three long-ignored crack lines up the broken, mossy rock just left Saikou Roof Kengaku Route.

Komochi Iwa - Mother with Child Rock

This slab is tucked in behind Sanka Monogatari. It consists of a 10-metre block resting against a bigger slab that tapers into the hillside on the right. The two original routes climb the block before heading out up the main slab. The two newer routes climb the cleaner but crumbly slab down and right.

Skirt round the Psycho Roof rocks to the left or right. Right is shorter but steeper.

Flake no Doukeshi - Flake Dance 5.10a* 40m
The left line up the top slab. Take a rack and a variety of garden tools. Shed optional.
Pitch 1. 5.10a (10m) Climb the crack in the front of the block to belay on its top. Crumbly, vegetated and avoidable by scrambling in from the left.
Pitch 2. 5.10a (30m) Climb out diagonally left past a series of flakes to the edge of the slab, then follow a flake to the top.

Komochi Shishamo - Smelt with Roe 5.10a* 35m
That's smelt as in the fish - something of a Japanese delicacy, or, in the case of this route, an acquired taste. The right line up the top slab. Take a rack, etc.
Pitch 1. 5.10a (10m) As for Flake no Doukeshi.
Pitch 2. 5.9 (25m) Climb direct to an overgrown flake. Dig up this, traverse right at its top, then make a tricky pull onto the rib on the right. Follow this to the top.

A Fierce Pancake 5.11c*** 22m
The lefthand of the two unreported lines down and right of the block.
Clip the first bolt easily and step up to a small pancake. The crux is to get your feet where your hands are. After this good holds lead to a flake and on to a ledge. The slab above this provides great fun on spaced jugs, finishing at a lower-off on another ledge.

De Selby on My Mind 5.11a*** 18m
The righthand of the two lines down and right of the block. Similar to, but easier than A Fierce Pancake.
Clip the first bolt easily, from which a good fingery sequence leads to a ledge. A long reach past an overlap gains a lower-off.

Amida Iwa - Amida Rock

A big, vegetated slab higher up in the woods. Amida is a Buddhist deity. The top offers a superb view, but it takes some getting there.

Follow the line of rocks into the woods up and left from Psycho Roof. After about 80m, you hit a big dirty slab.

Lotto 6 5.10a** 80m
A parallel line to Amida Kuji that supersedes it by virtue of being identifiable. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.10a (20m) Start on the right, by a block embedded in the roots of a huge conifer. Climb broken ground to the right edge of the slab proper. Pull neatly up the slab to a groove (good gear) that curves right to an overlap. Pull over at a bolt then climb direct to a dike below twin bolts. Mantel and belay. This pitch is enjoyable enough to be climbed in its own right, as long as it stays clean.
Pitch 2. 5.10a (30m) Pull steeply up the arete behind the belay to the right edge of a sandwiched slab. Traverse left to a bolt then go scarily straight up to the big overlap. Pull over, clip, and then climb straight up the scruffy slab to a wooded terrace. Walk off to the right, then cut left and up to a tower with two corners near its left edge.
Pitch 3. 5.10a (30m) Climb the lefthand corner to a bulge with a very fragile flake. Use this to pull over and then continue up the corner for a few metres until it possible to climb a crack on the left. Where this runs out, swing left and mantel onto a ledge on the arete (bolt). Continue to good tree and block belays at the top. Scramble off over the back (head right facing in) then trundle down an improving path all the way to the start of the route (keeping the rock on your left).

Amida Kuji - Spuds In 5.8* 95m
A long wandering line that has its moments. Unfortunately they are all on the top pitch. Take a rack. (Pitch 2 may have been affected by a rockfall - I've been on it twice and could not work it (pitch 2) out either time. Actually, I'm not even sure about the belay at the top of pitch 1.)
Pitch 1. 5.8 Start on the right, by a block embedded in the roots of a huge conifer. Climb the dirty slab rightwards to the top of a dirty crack. Step left to a wider crack and climb direct past a bush to another steeper crack. Pull through on good holds to an uncomfortable belay on two small trees. A dirty variation climbs the (bolted) slab just left at 5.10b. Left again is a filthy 5.9.
Pitch 2. 5.7 Traverse left to a crack (under the scar left by the block embedded in the tree at the start!). Climb this and the slab above to a flake. Follow this left and continue to belay on a good ledge. (I cannot see this at this grade, but I also cannot see where else it could possibly go.)
Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb the slab behind the belay till forced out left under a roof. Gain a crack, follow this to its end, then climb the slab easily to the top. Scramble down the back of the rock to the next buttress (rope recommended).
Pitch 4. 5.9 Climb the central corner to a fragile flake. Use this to pull over a bulge and then traverse right to a notch on the rib. Continue easily to a tree belay. Scramble off over the back. The righthand groove can be climbed to join the traverse midway at 5.9.
A variation (Ooatari Traverse - Jackpot Traverse) is recorded going straight across the slab from the start of pitch 2 at 5.10c, but as I'm not even sure about where pitch 2 starts, that's not much help.

Dog Flake 5.8* 60m
The big flakeline on the left of the crag. Now very dirty, but it still goes. Take a rack and make sure you've got some bigs.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Start at a crack where the crag starts disappearing into the hillside. Climb up and out right to a flake. Follow this to an overlap. Follow the overlap left until it is possible to pull through and climb the slab back right to belay below a groove.
Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the groove (crux) then pull out onto a slab. Go up and right to another flake and follow this pleasantly to the top. Walk off to the left, facing in.
The bolted line pulling right out of Dog Flake has a lovely top slab that looks great from the campsite, but you have to climb a 15m carpet of moss to get there - maybe that's why it hasn't been publicised. There was some new route activity up here in 2006. 3 one-pitch routes (from the left 5.10d, 5.11c, 5.12a) were climbed up near Dog Flake - more details later. If ever.

Castle Augh

The small brown slab seen in profile as you trudge up to Hotoke Iwa has two neat slab routes.

Follow the wide track up past the car park, then, at the second big right-hand bend, follow a path into the woods to a popular bouldering area (which may well be Kujira Iwa - Whale Rock). Continue right of this. The path steepens and enters a broad gully right of Psycho Roof Area. Continue up the gully and then cut across to the slab.

Cow Ballistics 5.10b** 12m
The righthand line. Hard for the grade.
Step up to reach a would-be dike. Make a hard semi-mantel to get stood on this, then a thin smear to easier ground. Continue direct to the top and good trees over the back.

Coconut Hooves 5.10d** 13m
The lefthand line. Good but escapable.
Step up on good holds, then make a high step onto a rugosity. Sustained thin climbing leads to jugs just below the top.

Hotoke Iwa - The Buddha

The slim tower formed by stacked blocks high in the woods. Two excellent crack routes.

Follow the wide track up past the car park, then, at the second big right-hand bend, follow a path into the woods to a popular bouldering area (which may well be Kujira Iwa - Whale Rock). Continue right of this. The path steepens and enters a broad gully right of Psycho Roof Area and ends by cutting right to a ledge between blocks 1 and 2 of the tower. There are a couple of unreported lines on the lower block.

No Return 5.10c** 20m
The wide flake/crack on the left. The short straight chimney left again is marked as 5.8 in the old guides.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Pull onto a terrace then climb the big flake/crack curving right to a ledge.
Pitch 2. 5.10c The short sharp finger crack behind the belay.

Banana Crack 5.11d**** 20m
The beautiful central crackline. The first pitch has been declared a 'Foothold Free Zone'.
Pitch 1. 5.11d Pull onto a terrace then climb the impressive, steep finger crack in the centre of the face to a ledge. Belay on gear.
Pitch 2. 5.10c The short sharp finger crack behind the belay.

Kaminari Iwa - Thunder Rock

Seen from the campsite this crag appears as three slim towers on the skyline up and left of Hotoke Iwa.

Follow the gully up as for Hotoke Iwa. From the level of Hotoke Iwa, cross the gully leftwards and continue left to a col. You will pass under an impressive jutting buttress with a wide crack on either side. Skirt this buttress and the scruffy slabs on its left, then cut back up and right. There should be some more vegetated slabs in front of you, with the cleaner slabs and towers of Kaminari Iwa on the right. Once you leave the gully up to Hotoke Iwa, you're not really on a path.
You can also get here by traversing right and up from Amida Iwa.

Kaminari Iwa

Kaminari Michi Crack - Thunder Road Crack 5.9* 17m
The scruffy, slanting cracks in the left side wall of the first slab. Take a rack.
Start under the cracks. Climb over blocks to gain the main crack and follow it to its end. Pull right and climb easily but carefully to an anchor on the slab on the right. Ab off.

Goro Goro - Rumble! 5.11b*** 16m
Excellent moves up the superslim slab.
Start below the chimney and pull left onto the slab. Make a creative, crabby pull over the first overlap and a tricky smear over the second. Finish with neat moves up the top slab to a lower-off.

Houdai Chimney - Battery Chimney 5.8* 16m
The body-grating chimney between Goro Goro and Mizuumi no Densetsu. Hard V Diff on Stanage.
Climb over blocks into the chimney proper. Back-and-foot up the chimney to a good foothold on the right arete. Move up to a rectangular block wedged at a disconcerting angle (the cannon that gives the route its name). Pull round this on its left and move easily up and right to the anchor of Mizuumi no Densetsu. Ab off. For a more logical but slightly harder finish, pull left after the rectangular block and finish up the top slab of Goro Goro.

Mizuumi no Densetsu - The Legend of the Lake 5.11a** 17m
The next slab along is very enjoyable.
Pull onto the slab from the left. Make a hard move up then jiggle a line up the centre of the slab to an overlap with a small notch. A tricky pull through this leads to the top. Lower off.
The next two routes start on the next slab along. This is reached by crossing a short "bridge" of cut trees and branches. Be careful!

Shirakomaike ha Shirakoma no Ike - Say Shirakoma no Ike, Not Shirakomaike 5.10c** 17m
The next slab along is undercut at its left side.
Climb the undercut left arete to a hard pull over the overlap. Finish on good holds up the left edge of the slab. Lower off. 2011 and somebody has whacked a lower-off in about two thirds of the way up. Not sure why. There's a note stuck to a tree at the bottom warning of a loose flake, but I couldn't find one. Perhaps it's not loose any more.

Kimpusan ha Kimpouzan - Say Kimpouzan, Not Kimpusan 5.10a* 15m
The crack in the right side of the slab is scruffy but enjoyable. Take gear up to Friend 2.
Start at a couple of trees at the base of the crack (belay advised). Pull up and right past a couple of bolts, then follow the crack to the top. Lower off.