The Family Rocks

This is my name for the series of crags on the east side of the main stream through the valley bounded to the south by the huge scree gully containing Mara Iwa.

The photo below shows the Family rocks seen from high on the opposite side of the valley. Roll your mouse over it to see crag names. Click a name to jump to the crag description.


The Family Rocks

I turned this one upside down to get it the way you look at it from the campsite.
The Family Rocks Map

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
1 Ani Iwa
2 Obasan Iwa
3 Saikoro Iwa etc.
4 Otouto Iwa
5 Mamako Iwa
6 Chichi Iwa
7 Haha Iwa
8 Mekake Iwa
9 Laputa no Tou
10 Godzilla no Bessou
11 Rum Doodle
Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
12 Riverside
13 Kakushiko Iwa etc.
14 Imouto Iwa
15 Mara Iwa
16 Hop, Step, Jump etc.
17 Sotsugyou Kinen etc.
18 Ane Iwa South
19 Ane Iwa Spire
20 Ane Iwa North
21 Shikaku Iwa
22 Limelight Wall


Ani Iwa - Big Brother Rock

The low white slab and golden buttresses directly across the river from the lodge. Close (10 minutes) to the campsite and with easy access, this is an excellent and popular venue.

Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn that marks the start of a path on the opposite bank. Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path a short way into the woods. Where it steepens, drop down left for the lower slab, or follow the path up and right for the upper walls.

The Lower Slab

This can be very crowded: Tajan IV and Crescent Moon Clip-up in particular have conveyor belt tendencies.
Ani Iwa - Lower

G'day Mate 5.10c** 15m
A fun, steep line at the extreme left end of the crag.
Climb direct up a steep wall to a left leaning crack/groove. After hard moves up this pull up and right to easier ground and a tree. Slings and krabs in place.

Numeran 5.10d** 15m
Contrived and escapable, but worthwhile.
Climb the dirty corner right of G'day Mate for a couple of metres (possible Friends) till the angle of the left wall relents. Pull across into the centre of the slab and climb diagonally left till it is possible to reach good holds in the centre of the slab. Climb pleasantly on jugs to a final steep move to a ledge. Swing left to finish at the tree of G'day Mate. You can make the route a much more enjoyable and even 5.10a by dodging the crux on the right. You can also improve the last moves by pulling up the crack on the right and hand-traversing the ledge to the finishing tree.

Sell My Soul 5.11c* 50m
OK, the name in the Japanese guides is 'Sale My Soul', but it irks. An uneven, rarely climbed route.
Start as for Numeran. Climb the easy corner for a few metres then step out left into the centre of the slab below a steepening. Climb direct to a lower-off.

Pikunikura 5.10b**** 30m
A cracking pitch up the crack in the slab that fades and ends at a tower. Take a set of Friends for the crack.
Climb easily to the crack in the overhang. Pull over and continue on good holds and jams to where the crack ends. Make a thin move up to the steep face, then pull up and left and climb direct to a lower-off at the top. If you're using a 50m rope, lower off or ab as far as possible, then scramble carefully down the last few metres.

Touhan no Subete - All About Climbing 5.11d**** 20m
An excellent, varied route with a peculiar start. Scramble up over easy ground right of Pikunikura, then pull into the tree-filled gully and belay in the big bugger.
Walk along the tree trunk to the wall. Pull up into an overhanging corner and layback to its top. Make a long reach for a dike and mantel, naturally avoiding the temptation of the sling dangling from the bolt. Climb the slab to a couple of pockets then traverse left to the arete and move up to the lower-off of Pikunikura.

Tajan IV 5.10a*** 18m
Neat slabbing, with just a hint of insecurity.
Start at the left edge of the righthand slab, above the step. Climb easily to an overlap. Pull over, then move up and slightly right to good holds. Climb direct to the last bolt, then run it out left and up to a chain lower-off.

Mikazuki Pin Clip - Crescent Moon Clip-up 5.10c** 20m
More neat slabbing, and more insecurity.
Climb an easy groove right of Tajan IV to the left end of a dike. A wobbly mantel gets you onto this. Hard moves off it lead to better holds and a junction with Tajan IV. Follow this to the lower-off. Given 10b in Japanese guides, but I can't see that.

Osouji Jouzu - Good at Cleaning 5.11b*** 25m
The slab right of Crescent Moon Clip-up, gained from it.
Climb to the second bolt of Crescent Moon Clip-up, then traverse the dike right to its end. Step up, then move left almost back into Crescent Moon Clip-up and to just under an overlap above which the rock is steeper and mossier. Step up into a fishy toehold and make hard moves out right to a small tongue of rock. Another hard move up gains better holds leading direct to a lower-off by a big tree.

Clean Climbing 5.11d*** 9m
A boulder problem start to Osouji Jouzu. Needs cleaning!
Make thin moves past a vague flake, clip, then smear and stretch for a big shallow pocket. Mantel, then pull up to join Osouji Jouzu on the dike.

The Creator 5.12a* 25m
Desperate climbing up the right edge of the slab. Rarely done, and in need of a fresh clean-up.
Start just left of a step in the slab. Use an arete to reach a thin ledge. Mantel onto this then step up on absolute tinies (crux), and climb direct till just below the top. Step left and up to a tree and lower-off.

The Central Walls

Ani Iwa - Main

Anta wa Te ga Nagai - You've Got Long Arms 5.12a* 11m
The small wall with a sloping dike and flake round the corner from the Lower Slab. More to this than meets the eye.
Pull up to the dike, then swing left and reach up for a flake (possible Friends). Continue more easily to a lower-off.

Hansharo wa Daydream - Reverberatory Furnace is a Daydream 5.11b** 15m
Well that's what it said in the dictionary. An enjoyable if artificial route finishing in a good position up a small tower.
Start down and left of the tower. Climb easily over dirty ground to the base of the tower. Step onto the front face of the tower and climb neatly to a lower-off. The second bolt is in poor condition.

Sunday 5.9** 15m
A good steep corner pitch. Take a rack.
Start where the path kinks right. Scramble to the foot of the corner. Climb this steeply on good jams and holds to a shoulder, then climb a juggy wall to a big terrace. Ab or lower off a tree, or bring your buddy up and climb a route from the terrace.

Meoto Kante - Husband and Wife Arete 5.13a** 30m
A steep face and arete on tiny holds.
Start on the ledge at the foot of the corner of Sunday. Move out right to the arete above a cutaway, then slap and crimp desperately up the arete. Easy finishing moves lead to the terrace.

Meoto Crack - Husband and Wife Crack 5.11d** 15m
The tough, intermittent crack round the arete. Small to medium wires and Friends.
Climb the lower arete of Meoto Kante to a small overhang. Pull over and continue past three bolts to finish up a more definite crack to the terrace.

Ojamamushi - The Pest 5.12a* 15m
An artificial filler that requires blinkers, but the climbing's OK.
Climb the thin crack between Meoto Crack and Hachioji Route to the terrace - no gear or holds in either of those routes.

Hachioji Route 5.9*** 25m
The corner to the right, and a wide crack starting from the terrace. Take a rack. The stars are for the lower corner. There is a lower-off just below the terrace for those inconvenienced by the existence of a second pitch.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Climb the obvious corner to the terrace.
Pitch 2. 5.6 Climb the wide, recessed crack at the left end of the terrace.

Nikaku - Double Arete 5.11d* 18m
An artificial line that links two short aretes.
Start on a ledge overlooking the path. Climb the bolted short arete left of a small corner (which you're not allowed to touch) to a ledge. Pull onto the hanging arete above and climb to a lower-off.

Scarecrow 5.11b*** 25m
A sustained climb with a fine exposed finish. See if you can get someone to take your pikkie from across the river.
Start on a ledge overlooking the path. Pull into a short corner and make hard moves to exit this on the right. Pull over a small overhang, then pick your way up the top wall in a superb position.

Leonie 5.10c* 25m
An adventure route. A good line, with good crack-climbing, but some poor rock and a dirty start.
Start at the right edge of the big wall right of Scarecrow. Scramble up the dirty gully to belay on trees at the foot of a small pinnacle. Climb onto the pinnacle, then make a hard step up and swing right to the base of the prominent 'V'. Follow the left branch to a crack and climb this to a tree at the top. Ab off or scramble off left.

Arupain Shoujou Mami - Mami of the Alps 5.11d**** 20m
The best route on Ani Iwa. Great moves and a tad scary.
Start at the right edge of the buttress. Climb up left of the easy slab to a small ledge. Move up then traverse left till it is possible to move up to and over an overlap. Step right and pull through an overhang, then skitter up a small face to the top. Lower off.

Natsuko no Nattsu - Natsuko's Nuts 5.11a*** 25m
A very good route up the right arete of the buttress. Take wires and small Friends for the start.
Start at an easy slab at the right edge of the buttress. Climb this to an overhang and pull over into a groove. Step up then right onto the arete and follow this to the lower-off of Arupain Shoujou Mami. Take care if lowering off to retrieve gear, otherwise you can ab down either the front or back face, or scramble then walk off round the back of the buttress.

The East Face

The steep back face of Ani Iwa.

Follow the main path round the back of Natsuko no Nattsu. Saikou Flake is obvious on the left.

Saikou Flake - The Excellent Flake 5.9* 19m
Hardly. The big flake in the back wall offers limited sport. Take a rack.
Thug up for a few metres, then follow the flake as it curves right to a lower-off.

Mountain Pro-shop Dake - Mountain Pro-shop Peak 5.12b 8m
A poor route that attempts to climb direct to the lower-off of Saikou Flake.
Start just right of Saikou Flake. Climb direct to the first bolt then swing right and up to the second. Finish direct. You're not allowed to touch holds in or near the corner/crack on the right.

Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou - Moonsault 51 5.11b* 15m
The wall right of Mountain Pro-shop Dake.
Climb the wall just right of the arete past a gripper second clip to a lower-off. Crux up top.

Mori no Midori ni Kakomarete - With the Green Wood All Around 5.11a*** 15m
Good holds and fun up the wall right of Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou.
Climb steeply to the first bolt. Zig delicately right and zag left past a slanting crack to the second. Finish direct and step left to the lower-off of Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou. The line to the right is an enjoyable but unreported 10d.

The North Face

Not as impressive as the name suggests.

Follow the main path round the back and up to a col. Go over the col and drop down and follow a path left, so you're in effect spiralling round Ani Iwa. The routes appear on the left before the path doglegs left and plants you on the terrace.

Gambare Kuma-san - Go on, Mr. Bear! 5.10b** 14m
The cracked face on the left as the path runs round to the terrace.
Climb the centre of the face on good holds to a groove. Up this to a lower-off.

Houjou Kante - Houjou Arete 5.10b 14m
A poor route that attempts to climb the arete right of Gambare Kuma-san.
Start right of the arete, and climb right of the arete to a lower-off, all of the while imagining that you are climbing the arete. If you accidentally climb the arete, have a biscuit and a considerably higher grade.

Kintarou 5.9* 10m
The very short corner just before the path goes round the corner to the terrace. Take a rack.
Climb the corner to a choice of tree.

From the Terrace

Momiji - Maple 5.10a** 9m
The cracked arete to the right of the recess containing pitch 2 of Hachioji Route is very pleasant, but there's not enough of it.
Pull up on good jams and holds to a tall man's move past a tiny overlap. Heave again and amble to a lower-off. The route is protected by 3 bolts, but can easily be protected with wires and small cams.

Wally wo Sagase - Where's Wally? 5.11a** 10m
Enjoyable climbing up the thin crack right of Momiji. Crux at the bottom.
Start just right of Momiji. Technical moves on small, sharp holds lead to a slight ledge. Good locks in the crack lead past one sharp pull to a lower-off.

Summertime 5.13b** 13m
A supercharged Wally wo Sagase.
Start just right of Wally wo Sagase. Desperate crimping up the wall to a lower-off makes some people happy. The Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt.

Magajin - Magazine 5.10a*** 13m
The slender white corner - harder than it looks. Take a rack.
Climb the corner, with difficulty concentrated in the smooth first few metres, to a lower-off on a tree.

Dance, Dance, Dance 5.10c* 15m
The right arete of Magajin, gained from Get It On, is another route that doesn't climb where its bolts are. Take a rack.
Make a spooky step off the right edge of the terrace into a short capped corner. At the overhang, pull out left to a bottomless crack. Climb the arete between this and the line of the bolts. At the last bolt, swing right and pull up to the lower-off of Get It On.

Get It On 5.11c** 15m
A very 'exciting' route - rarely climbed. Take a rack.
Step off the right edge of the terrace into the short capped corner, but at the overhang, pull out right onto the steep exposed face. Move boldly out right to the arete and sprint up this (pegs and gear in a hidden crack) to the top. Lower off.

Obasan Iwa - Auntie Rock

The two-tiered face, tucked away behind and slightly left of Ani Iwa. The top tier is conspicuously triangular. Note that a lot of trees have been cut down on the terrace, making it more open and potentially more unstable. The heavily-gardened back face of Obasan Iwa (Tonari no Obasan) has returned to its default filthy state.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path down then left (facing in) for thirty metres. For the Upper Tier, cut up a short easy corner to a terrace between the Upper and Lower Tiers. For the Lower Tier, follow the path down (it passes under the routes). For Tonari no Obasan, follow the path down past the Lower Tier then cut straight up the gully on the left of the crag.
It is also possible to slog up the gully left of Ani Iwa, as if approaching Tomodachi Iwa, then break out right.

Obasan Iwa

The Lower Tier

Seitou Udoku - Climb When it's Fine, Read When it Rains 5.10b** 10m
The lefthand line. OK, but a bit gloomy. The name is a pun on a Japanese proverb that corresponds to 'Make hay while the sun shines'.
Gain the first bolt from slightly to the right. Traverse left to a good flake and finish direct with a scary rockover to gain a lower-off.

Tenkuu no Tatakai - Battle in the Sky 5.10a* 10m
The righthand line. Steeper and more broken.
Climb direct to two bolts very close together. Pull up and left to a hanging groove that leads to a lower-off. The holds are big but crunchy.

The Upper Tier

Watashi ga Obasan ni Natte mo - Even When I'm an Old Woman 5.10a** 10m
The left arete of the twee little subsidiary slab. More strenuous than it looks.
Gain the arete from the right and follow it with continuous interest to a step right to a shared lower-off at the tip of the slab. Well, that's what I thought: "Continuously interesting, this."

Hahako - Cottonweed 5.10c** 10m
The centre of the twee little subsidiary slab with one hard move.
Climb the centre of the lefthand slab on sharp holds till below a crack. Heave into the crack with little help from your feet, then pull up to the lower-off. The crack takes Friends 2-3 very nicely, if required.

Kodomo wo Namenna yo - Don't Spoil Your Kids 5.10b** 11m
The right corner of the twee little subsidiary slab has been retro-bolted.
Climb the corner - much harder than it looks - to a step left to the lower-off. Sustained till you get past the bulge. Treat the jug at the top with care - you don't see many like that round here.

L'Air du Temps - Spirit of the Age 5.10d*** 13m
The lefthand line on the main slab: enjoyable, as bolted cracks go.
Pull up to, over and onto a pancake flake at the left end of the main slab. The second clip is a bit insecure. Follow the disjointed cracks above to a lower-off, humming "I would have liked you to have been deep-frozen too".

Tonbi ni Aburage Sarawareta - A Kite Stole my Fried Toufu 5.10d* 16m
A poor climb - one of those that fails to go where its bolts are.
From just right of L'Air du Temps, climb steeply up and right along a crunchy crack and, where it finishes, step right to the arete. Attempt to follow this to the lower-off of L'Air du Temps. You'll probably end up in the chossy crack on the right at some stage. 10d is the FA grade. Using the crack makes it about 10b, not using it makes it much harder.

Tonari no Obasan - The Woman Nextdoor

The ugly, gloomy, dirty back face of Obasan Iwa. Go somewhere else.

Touch 5.11b* 18m
The right arete of the face - try not to interfere with climbers on Watashi ga Obasan ni Natte mo.
Gain the arete by climbing out right from the gully. The arete increases in difficulty to a final smear across a slab to the lower-off.

Alcohol Denchi - Alcohol Battery 5.8* 9m
The face just left has a ramp slanting left to a lower-off at half height.
Climb uneventfully and relatively easily on big holds to meet the ramp at its left end. Pull into the ramp and trudge up to the lower-off. The direct finish (to the lower-off on Touch) is Super Alcohol Denchi - Super Alcohol Battery, 5.11c and not worth it.

Alzheimer 5.10d* 18m
The longer, line left of Alcohol Denchi. There's a pun in the Japanese name that I can't pull off.
Start just left of Alcohol Denchi, and just right of the arete formed by the edge of the steep section on the left. Neat moves lead to a slabby central section and steep finish. Quite trying.

Nantoka to Inazuma - Something and Lightning 5.11b* 18m
The first of three longer lines on the steeper wall left of Alzheimer. A bit too close to Alzheimer, really.
Start just left of Alzheimer. Steep moves on good holds lead to a hard pull to where the angle eases. Easier climbing to the lower-off.

Kokufuku - Conquest 5.11c* 18m
Reportedly the best of the bunch. Reportedly overgraded.
Haven't done it.

Passion 5.12a* 16m
The next line along.
Climb the choss on the left for a couple of metres, then pull onto the wall proper and struggle to where the angle eases. The top section is enjoyable.
The next two routes start one step further up the dank gully.

Margin 5.11d* 10m
The right edge of the steep face.
Step out right and paddle steeply on small sharp holds to a lower-off.

Makenai - Can't Lose 5.10d 10m
The leftmost and dankest line. The hanger is missing from the first bolt (Spring 2004).
Steep moves on small holds lead quickly to a narrow ledge and short, smooth corner. Finish up this at a lower-off.

Tomodachi Iwa - Friend Rock

A clump of jumbled blocks and slabs below Saikoro Iwa. The area is relatively new (1999), the rock is relatively crap, yet the routes were, for a short time, at least, perversely popular. A lot more routes were climbed in this area in 2001 under the area name Baby Pinnacles, but really they just represent a (rather short) extension of Tomodachi Iwa. These are mostly short, steep faces and definite fillers and are described in relation to Tomodachi Iwa.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path left (facing in) for 70m (under Obasan Iwa). The original path then cuts up to Saikoro Iwa. Traverse left from the bottom of Obasan Iwa without losing height to a prominent face (with Aa, Koshimin) and continue into the next gully. Climb this gully for 50m to an amphitheatre of craglets.
Alternatively, follow the main stream down past Ani Iwa, cross it at a cairn on the right bank and follow a new path, badly marked with yellow tape, up the gully to the rocks. Tomodachi Iwa is the biggest of these and first on the left.

Routes are described from left to right in a perverse yet clockwise kind of way, starting with Tomodachi Iwa. On all these routes, be prepared to back up or replace the tat on the anchors.

Skywalker 5.10b** 25m
A nice long pitch up the lefthand slab and perched block. Take a couple of some small and medium cams. Note that the bolts are not very good!
Climb up to a crack (cam), jam up this and continue to a slab. Climb the slab to the bulge created by the base of the perched block. The first bolt on the block is particularly dodgy, but you can back it up with a cam under the bulge. Pull onto the ledge on the right then swing immediately back left to a spike (possible sling). Pleasant juggy moves lead quickly to the top and a lower-off.

Coming Out 5.11c* 15m
On the righthand slab, a bit of a stiffy over the hang at its widest point.
Climb with relative ease to the overhang. Pull over desperately to a lower-off. The start is very dirty.

Space Odyssey 5.10c** 15m
This climbs through the hang using a crack a few metres to the right. The twin bolts below the hang are an obvious marker.
Climb the steep slab to the overhang. Pull over using the cruddy crack and continue to a lower-off on the right.

Discovery 5.10a* 15m
The right edge of the righthand slab. High in the grade.
Start below an overlap on the right edge of the main slab. Climb to the overlap, pull over and follow the right edge to an overhang. Pull over by a small tree and go up to a lower-off.

Mo! 5.10b* 10m
An entertaining but artificial problem up the arete right of Discovery.
Start round the arete from Discovery and a short way up the gully. Pull out left to the arete, then make awkward moves up to a good flat hold. Heave onto this and step right to a lower-off.

Akante 5.11c* 9m
A very artificial problem up the small arete right of Mo!
Start as for Mo! and climb the little arete past a bulge to the same lower-off.

Queer 5.11b 8m
A very short problem up the tiny face round the back of Tomodachi Iwa.
Start round to the right of Akante and climb the face before it disappears into the hillside to the same lower-off.

Fill Thomas 5.11d* 11m
The left arete of the narrow face on the next rock up the gully.
Start by pulling up a fixed rope (check it first!) then step left as soon as possible onto the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a step right to a lower-off.

Suteki na Okusama - Beautiful Wife 5.10c* 12m
I've got one of them. The right arete of the narrow face.
Start by pulling up the fixed rope. From its top, pull left onto and climb the arete. This is quite hard till a good jug is gained. Mantel onto this and continue to a lower-off.

Stocklin Ojisan - Uncle Stocklin 5.11c 8m
The short steep face round to the right of Suteki na Okusama.
Start at the top of the fixed rope, right of Suteki na Okusama. Climb the dirty, gloomy face by desperate and reachy moves to a lower-off.

Da! 5.10d 9m
The thoroughly trivial face opposite Stocklin Ojisan.
Climb the narrow, broken face to a lower-off under Saikoro Iwa. Not very rewarding. At all.

Crunky 5.10c* 10m
The short crunchy face up and right of Da!
Climb the narrow face to a couple of bolts with krabs. The top is very crumbly.

Slim 5.10c* 10m
The short but sweet slim face right of Crunky.
Climb the narrow face to a tree under Saikoro Iwa. Good moves, but the rock is poor.2017, the anchor needs replacing.

Slender 5.10c** 13m
The slim groove right on the left side of the face right of Slim. Better than it looks.
Climb the groove, which is quite sustained till the final slab. The anchor on the tree needs replacing!

Snakey 5.10b** 13m
The centre of the face winding up to a short flake.
Start just right of Slender and weave a line right to the flake. A couple of stiff moves up this lead to the disposable lower-off of Slender.

Squat 5.10d* 10m
The shorter face right of Snakey.
Start a short way up the slope right of Snakey. Climb steep ground on fragile holds to emerge on a dirty slab. Scuttle left to the lower-off of Slender.

K.C. Cat 5.11a** 10m
The slab/face level with and 10m right of Mo!
Start at the left edge of the slab, on a gardened terrace. Pull up to a narrow ledge and make a touch-and-go mantel onto it. Reachy moves on generally good holds gain a lower-off.

Beagle 5.12b* 11m
The line right of K.C. Cat.
Start down and right of the terrace, at an undercut. Pull over and climb the right arete of the face to a lower-off. I don't know what to make of the bolt between this and K.C. Cat near the top.

Yane Ura Biiru Koujou - Attic Brewery 5.10c 8m
The tiny face in a gloomy cranny about 15m down and right (facing in) of Beagle. 8m might be a little generous.
Climb the face to a lower-off.

Ai ga Areba Toshi no Sa nante - Age doesn't Matter When You're in Love 5.11c 9m
Quite right, too.
20m down and right of Yane Ura Biiru Koujou is the face with Aa, Koshimin, which you may have passed on the way in. Climb the left side of this to a lower-off.

Aa, Koshimin - Ah, the Bourgeoisie 5.11b 9m
The righthand line.
Climb the right side of the front face to a lower-off.
Some routes have been added to Baby Pinnacles, but have yet to be reported. I've added the ones I've done.

Saikoro Iwa - The Dice

The prominent, perched cube of rock poking from the trees at the left end of the hillside opposite the lodge.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path left (facing in) for 70m (under Obasan Iwa), then cut up the gully (the rocks on your left are Baby Pinnacles), and follow a vague path to the base of the pinnacle. There is white tape marking the path, but it's hard to see. If you get it right first time, it should take about 25 minutes from the campsite.
Alternatively, follow the main stream down past Ani Iwa, cross it at a cairn on the right bank and follow a new path, badly marked with yellow tape, up the gully to the rocks.

Belle Vue 5.11d* 10m
A fierce route up the centre of the west (facing the lodge) face.
Start in the centre of the face. Climb carefully over crumblies to below the overlap, pull left and over and follow the lefthand line. The first bolt on Schloss Adler has been extended to protect the start.

Schloss Adler 5.11c*** 10m
The righthand line of the west face: the best route on the Dice.
Start as for Belle Vue. Climb to the overlap, pull over and follow the right arete.

Saikoro RoofSaikoro Roof 5.11b** 10m
A stiff problem up the left edge of the east (back) face. Easier than it looks low down, but...
The blue bolts. Climb to the obvious small overhang, taking care with the first clip. Pull over and follow the left edge of the face to the break below the top (possible big Friends). Step left to a slab and make hard moves up this to a lower-off and the top. A lovely place to be.

Secret 5.11c*** 10m
The not-so-steep central line. Harder than it looks.
The plain bolts. A steep pull or jump to start gains a good break. Fluffy climbing on would-be holds leads to another break (the crux is leaving the good foothold in the centre of the face). Finish up the notch. The crack is a little friable, but takes good medium Friends.

No Access 5.11a*** 10m
The pleasant right edge of the face.
The (now faded) purple bolts. Climb just left of the right edge to the first break. Neat moves centred on a thin crack lead to the second break (bolt not visible from below). Traverse left and finish up the notch (possible Friends).

Okosama Iwa - Child Rock

The tiny crag just (20m) north and down of Saikoro Iwa. Only one route to date.

Omunaito 5.10a 9m
The short bolted flake on the east face. I think the name's something to do with Pokemon.
Climb steeply up the flake on big crumbly holds. The rollover onto the top slab is quite scary. Be warned: The first bolts are in the flake and the flake itself is less than permanent. The lower-off consists of two short chains on unconnected bolts.

Otouto Iwa - Little Brother Rock

The slender tapering buttress to the right of Ani Iwa. Generally good rock, but the lines are rather broken.

Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn marking a crossing point. Cross the river (2016, the closest crossing to the lodge leaves you just to the right of the Lower Section). The broad slab that starts Kentaurus Densetsu and is capped by hangs is an obvious feature to start with. The first two routes start on the short steep wall to the left.

The Lower Section

Otouto Iwa

Shitazumi Seikatsu - The Hard Life of an Apprentice 5.10b** 10m
Short, and not very hard.
Climb slightly to the left of the lefthand of the two bolt lines on the short steep wall to a tree. Continue to a lower-off a little higher.

Moujiki Bakabon - Soon Be Bakabon 5.10c** 10m
Short, but a bit harder than its neighbour. (Bakabon's a cartoon character.)
Climb the righthand of the two bolt lines on the short steep wall to the same anchor. Not sure if you're supposed to use the holds on the right at this grade - seems too easy with them, but too hard without. Be kind to nature and use the lower-off a little higher.

Ogawayama Gekijou - Ogawayama Theatre 5.10d** 60m
An uneven 3-pitch route, but the top pitch leaves you in a nice position. Start up and right of Shitazumi Seikatsu at a ramp leading left under the roofs of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki. You can turn the route into a better 3-pitch 5.9 by climbing the lurvly corner as pitch 2, in which case, you'll need some medium cams. You could also make it more even by climbing Shitazumi Seikatsu or Moujiki Bakabon as Pitch 1, with a short link-up bolt line just left of the anchor.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Follow the ramp out left to the lefthand of two bolted shallow corners, which is followed to a tree belay on a big ledge.
Pitch 2. 5.10d For some reason, ignore the lurvly corner crack on the left, and climb the bolted line to its right. Walk up to a tree belay at the foot of the top face. Be careful not to knock anything down.
Pitch 3. 5.9 Make a steep pull to get established on the face, then follow this pleasantly in a fine position to slabs and a lower-off at the top.
Make a short ab down either Haru no Ame Agari or Joyful Jam to ledges, then walk down past Mamako Iwa and down and round to the front of the crag.

Kentaurus Densetsu - The Legend of the Centaur 5.10b* 25m
Not as good as it looks. Most of the bolts are badly placed (you always seem to be a metre right or left of them), and the first clip can be scary, depending on the moss factor. If necessary, you can clip the first bolts of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki.
Make a rising leftward traverse across the slab 'till under a shallow corner at the left edge of the big overhang. Climb up to the foot of the corner (loose block), then climb up and around its left arete. Step back right at its top and continue more easily to a lower-off.

Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki - Fiddler on the Roof 5.11b** 26m
A very impressive line, but they could at least have put the bolts in properly.
Start as for Kentaurus Densetsu, but from the traverse pull up and right to the big overhangs. Work a line right then left through these (the crux is getting established above the second) to easier ground and a lower-off.
The next two routes climb the slab above and right of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki. They start from a ledge gained by scrambling up a broken corner round to the right of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki, but are best thought of as two-pitch routes.

Love Story 5.9** 35m
The corner followed by the cracked slab left of the prominent brown overhang. Good positions and mostly big holds, but the rock's a bit iffy in places. Most of the second pitch is lovely, but the rest is a bit grotty. Take a set of Friends and plenty of slings.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Climb the loose corner to the second tree. Pull round left onto the front face and climb between a couple of detached flakes to a good ledge next to a lonesome pine. Bolt and peg belay. Be careful not to knock anything down.
Pitch 2. 5.9 Climb the slab behind the belay past a couple of thin moves low down to a break. Continue on big holds and good jams to a short easy corner. Climb this and step right to a cramped sloping ledge with a possible belay on decaying slings on spikes. It's better to traverse left and climb the finishing slab of Ogawayama Gekijou. Be careful not to knock anything down.
To descend, it is possible to ab the route, but you need to be careful to avoid snagging your rope. You could also ab the short face behind you (Joyful Jam). Or you could make a short traverse left from the base of the final slab to easy ground, then climb down easily next to Joyful Jam. You can then walk down past Mamako Iwa and down and round to the front of the crag.

MIYAKO 5.10c 35m
The corner followed by the cracked slab and prominent brown overhang. Good positions, but the rock is poor and some of the bolts are rubbish. The bolts should be enough, but you can get cams in here and there as well. The bolt on the crux is in very soft rock.
Pitch 1. 5.7 As for Love Story, climb the loose corner to the second tree. Pull round left onto the front face and climb past a detached flake to a good ledge next to a lonesome pine. Bolt and peg belay. Be careful not to knock anything down.
Pitch 2. 5.10c Traverse right behind the belay to a poor RCC bolt then pull up into a mini-corner. Climb this and the easy slab above to the Weetabixy left edge of a brown overhang. Pull through into a groove (crux), then swing right in a fine position to a short finishing slab and belay on decaying slings on spikes on a good ledge. (2014, there looks to be a new lower-off just below the ledge.)
Descend as for Love Story.

Take-chan Man 5.11a* 35m
The steep face starting up and right of MIYAKO and finishing in pretty much the same spot. Scramble up a fixed rope to reach the start.
Climb the steep cracked face with mounting difficulty to a dodgy lower-off.

The Upper Section

Unknown 5.10a* 8m
The short steep face down and left of the terrace at the back of Otouto Iwa (and facing Mamako Iwa). Be careful not to knock anything down. Scramble down to start.
Climb the face on sharp holds to a dodgy lower-off - nice enough, but far too short.

GenKeiShinYuuShuu 5.7* 12m
Climbs the obvious corner before breaking out onto the face on the right. Take a rack. The name is a concatenation of brothers' names.
Start on the terrace, left of a tree in a short corner. Climb the open corner on the left to a ledge. Step right onto the face and follow a diagonal crack to jugs leading to the top. The lower-off is the same as for Ogawayama Gekijou.

Haru no Ame Agari - The End of the Spring Rain 5.9** 10m
A pleasant steep face. The bolts are totally unnecessary (if you have a rack).
Start on the terrace, left of a tree in a short corner. Make a stiff pull to get established on the face, then climb direct on feelgood holds and jams to the top. The lower-off is the same as for Ogawayama Gekijou.

Joyful Jam 5.9** 10m
The short crack round to the right. If you've got big hands, forget the joy and the jam. Friends 1-3.
Climb the crack to a lower-off at its top, avoiding the temptation to bridge out behind you. Good, but far too short.

Jangara 5.11b** 10m
The small pinnacle between the summit tower of Otouto Iwa and Mamako Iwa.
Climb the bolted line on the left edge of the steep face to a lower-off. The non-line to the right has been top-roped.

Mamako Iwa - Mother and Child Rock

The amazing slab of rock thrown into the dirt behind Otouto Iwa and seemingly propped up by a glorious tree gives a couple of pleasant slab routes on one face and thug heaven on the other.

Follow the path round the back of Otouto Iwa. You can cut across to this point from the top of Ani Iwa and Haha Iwa.

Slab Left 5.10a* 10m
Short, and not very hard.
Climb the lefthand of the two bolt lines on the slab. For some bizarre reason, previously graded 5.10d.

Slab Right 5.10d*** 10m
The righthand line: harder and better than its neighbour.
Intricate climbing up the righthand of the two bolt lines on the slab. 11a if you resist the arete.

Akko Kante - Akko Arete 5.11c** 10m
A top-rope problem up the left arete of the steep back face.
Power up the arete. Not as hard as it looks. But just as strenuous.

Jiryoku - Magnetic Force 5.12c*** 10m
The bolted line to the right of Akko Kante. Harder than it looks. And just as strenuous. Save it for a rainy day.
Don't ask me what to do! It's said to be good.

Chuuou Line - Central Line 5.12a** 10m
A popular top-rope problem up the next line to the right.
Slap and heave on square holds to the top.

Shige Line 5.11b 10m
The rightmost line. Omitted from the latest guide.
Climb direct about 1m right of Chuuou Line.

Chichi Iwa - Father Rock

The twin slabs, the left one squat and light, the right one slender and dark, high on the hill just across the river from the lodge offer excellent slab-climbing, but can be top-rope hell.

From the lodge, drop down to Nishimatasawa (the main stream) and look for cairns marking a crossing. Note that the crossing points can change because the boulders in the stream move. Sometimes a cairn may get left behind long after the crossing has gone.
Assuming that you arrive at Otouto Iwa, skirt it on its right and continue round its back to Mamako Iwa. You can also reach this point by heading up and right from Ani Iwa. The path continues straight up the hill to the foot of the lefthand slab. Another alternative is to follow a path up and right of Haha Iwa. This eventually heads back left to the foot of the righthand slab.

Chichi Iwa

Jakuten Shugi - The Weakness Principle 5.10d** 22m
A nice line up the left of the crag, but the climbing always feels insecure. The idea behind the name is you should follow the weak points. Take care with a loose block in the overhang. 2016, the bolt on the crux is in a bad way.
Start at the leftmost point of the slab, and scramble up about 10 metres to a well-appointed square ledge (rope in place, handle with care). Good moves lead up the corner and over the hang. A scary step left starts the easier top slab. Finish slightly right at twin bolts with rings. Ab/lower-off.

Moralist 5.9** 22m
Not as hard as it looks, but the bolts are quite spaced higher up, and the switch from juggy face to slopy slab is quite disconcerting.
Start as for Jakuten Shugi. Climb the arete and face on the right on huge holds, then carefully follow a vague line rightwards up the top slab to a chain next to a small tree. Ab/lower-off.

Abu Lou 5.10c*** 28m
A good climb piecing together some natural gear placements. The top slab is superb. Take a set of Friends.
Start at the lowest point of the slab, just right of a step up and below a short crack. Climb through a scoop to the short crack (Friends). Two bolts protect hard moves up to a ledge with trees. Climb up and left into a groove and another short crack (Friends) and pull out of this onto the top slab. Step right and climb direct past two more bolts to a small flake (small Friends). Step up, mantel and finish direct at the chain of Moralist, avoiding the temptation to traverse into neighbouring routes. If you have a 50m rope, ab or lower off to the trees on the terrace then ab again or scramble off to the start of Moralist. A 60m rope will get you down in one.

Tajan II 5.10a*** 28m
Pleasant climbing up the centre of the wide slab.
Start at the lowest point of the slab, a couple of metres right of Abu Lou. Climb through two scoops to a terrace (crux). Pull over an overlap onto the top slab and climb direct to a good crack leading diagonally left to the chain of Moralist. Descend as for Abu Lou.

Touhan no Uta - The Song of Ascent 5.9* 12m
Basically an optional finish to Tajan II or Kanpeki na Chichi. 10d in the Kitayama topo!
From the top of Tajan II or Kanpeki na Chichi, climb the upper slab behind the tree to a short crack. Climb this (Friends #2~3) to another tree to finish. Ab/lower off, depending on how much rope you came with (it's 40m to the ground).

Kanpeki na Chichi - The Perfect Father 5.10c*** 28m
Nice climbing in a direct line just right of Tajan II. Low in the grade and with some lovely small sharp holds.
Start at a vertical dike right of Tajan II. Climb this and continue direct to a ledge below a big booming flake. Pull onto this then continue in a direct line to a lower-off next to a big tree. The original finish stepped right at the last overlap and climbed past 2 bolts to a lower-off with no tree next to it. If lowering off on a 50m rope, aim right (facing in). 10b if you use the flake on the right to get to the third bolt.

Ganpeki no Chichi - The Rockfather 5.10b*** 22m
Good climbing following the intermittent line of overlaps. Hard for the grade.
Start at the right edge of the slab. Climb over the first overlap, then follow the disjointed but obvious overlapping line up and left past some thin moves to a horizontal break. Either continue along this to a junction with Touhan no Uta and Tajan II, or break out directly up to a lower-off.

Retasu Batake de Tsukamatte - Catcher in the Lettuce 5.10d*** 23m
Good climbing up the right edge of the slab, though the crux is unfortunately close to Ganpeki no Chichi.
Start as for Ganpeki no Chichi, but step right early on and try to keep a step right till a desperate move gains a standing position on a scarred flake. Step right to a shallow crack and climb direct to a lower-off.

Ku wa Kuraimaa no Ku - C is for Climber 5.10c*** 12m
Enjoyable climbing on small sharp holds. Rebolted in 2016.
Start on top of the big ledge on the left of the righthand slab. Climb slightly rightward to an overlap. Pull over (crux) and climb slightly leftward on improving holds to a lower-off.

Ogawayama Story 5.9***** 30m
Excellent climbing up the white streak in the centre of the long (and getting longer) slender slab.
Climb the slab to the top - sustained, quality stuff. You're not allowed to use the corner at the bottom.
2016: The narrow ledge that you used to mantel between bolts 3 and 4 is no longer there. Your belayer is probably standing on bits of it. Go right then back left around the white scar it left behind. Overall, the grade hasn't changed, but it's probably a bit scarier.
If you're using a 60m rope, you can get down in one go. Otherwise, ab or lower off to the terrace up and left of the start (from which Ku wa Kuraimaa no Ku starts).

Ogawayama Street 5.10a*** 26m
More good climbing up the righthand line.
Start a short way up the slope on the right. Step left above a cutaway onto the slab and climb the righthand line to a lower-off. Technical crux at the top, head crux reaching the fifth bolt.
The next routes climb the south face of the rock, approached via the steep slope to the right of Ogawayama Monogatari. I'm calling this Migioku Chichibu but you can tell me to stop being stupid and get on with my work.
Migioku Chichibu

Kubijikken - Head Count 5.10b*** 27m
A very good slab route slightly marred by the scruffy start. The name literally means "identifying severed heads". Gotta love a culture that needs a word like that.
Start at the base of a corner 20m up the slope to the right of Ogawayama Story. Climb the corner till it is possible to break out onto the slab at a horizontal tree. The tree is stronger than it looks, but all the same, handle with care. Climb to a ledge then continue direct up the steeper slab to a tidy rockover onto the easy-angled top slab. Pad up this to a spacious ledge and a lower-off on a tree.

Guillotine Crack 5.10a** 20m
The obvious wide crack round the back of Ogawayama Story. Take a rack, with extra bigs.
Start a few metres up the slope to the right of Kubijikken. Pull into the undercut crack and follow it all the way to the hanging blade. Step left and jam pleasantly up the corner to an easy finishing slab. Finish on the spacious ledge.

Measure of Leg Length 5.9** 15m
The pleasant jamming crack up and right again. The wider you can bridge, the easier it is. Take a rack of medium-large runners.
Start 10m further up the slope. Climb awkward cracks past a curious block to a pleasant jamming crack which leads to the ledge and tree of Guillotine Crack.

Sausage 5.9* 10m
The chimney and crack further right. Take a rack of medium-large runners.
Pull out of the chimney onto a good foothold, then climb the crack to the ledge. Ab off the tree of Guillotine Crack.

Haha Iwa - Mother Rock

The slab to the right of Otouto Iwa. A relatively recent development that is being reclaimed by Mother Nature, but nevertheless has a handful of decent low-grade slab routes.

Haha Iwa

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Where the path climbs up to the upper crag, follow a less well defined path horizontally right past Otouto Iwa. When this path starts going uphill towards Mamako Iwa, break out right for 50m to a big dirty slab. The small steep face down and right is Mekake Iwa.

Inochi no Haha - Mother of Life 5.5 10m
Dull and dirty climbing. Take a Friend 2/2.5.
Climb up to a flake at the left edge of the slab. Where the flake ends, move up and left to twin bolts with unlinked chains.

Tajisura - Tarsla 5.9* 11m
More nondescript climbing.
Start left of a small overlap and climb direct to the same twin bolts as Inochi no Haha. A 5.10a variation start traverses in under the overlap from just left of Sudden Story. You read it here first.

Sudden Story 5.10a* 10m
Standard slab fare after a slippy start.
Climb direct to a tree and lower-off. Crux low down.

Pumpy 5.10b*** 17m
An excellent pitch - varied with an exciting finish. The moss in the lower groove does not (significantly) affect the route.
Start left of a flake. Climb into a shallow groove, pull out right and go up to a second groove. Up this using a fragile flake, then right over an easy slab to twin cracks in a steep wall. Monkey up these and make a stirring move up the finishing slab to a mahoosive tree. Ab/lower off.

Akusai Kenbo - Bad Wife, Clever Mother 5.10d* 18m
Interesting, but not all there.
Climb past a couple of flakes (Friend 1.5) to a break (Friend 3). Move left and up a tricky wall using another flake (Rock 4ish), then climb a slab to the finish of Pumpy. The bottom is very dirty.

Dakishimetai - I Want to Hold You 5.11c*** 18m
Another excellent, varied pitch and exciting finish.
Start under the centre of the big hang. Climb up to and over an overlap (often wet) then make a hard move to gain an easier slab (probably needs a brush). Up this, over the hang in gorilla mode then ab or lower off.

Touhan no Subete de Luxe - All about Climbing de Luxe 5.10c*** 38m
The corner and slab above. Excellent. Take small and medium Friends and some wires.
Climb over easy slabs to the foot of the corner (almost always wet, but still doable). Up this and pull over the big hang on jugs on the right. The slab above has one nasty move. Finish in an almost direct line at a tree.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the top of Mother Earth or Dakishimetai and ab again. You can also scramble to the top behind the tree and walk down to the right of the crag (facing in).

Mother Earth 5.10d** 15m
Worth another star if the crack gets a good brushing. Take Friends 2-3.
Start on a ledge down and right of the main slab. Step left onto a slab and make a worrying move to the foot of a short steep wall with an obvious jug. Stretch for this then heave up for a crack that might be full of pine needles. Up this more easily to a lower-off.

Ogawamama 5.9 10m
A non-event.
Start as for Mother Earth and climb (or, better, don't) direct to a lower-off.

Eightman 5.8*** 35m
A very pleasant trip. Some of the holds are crumbly, but most are huge.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Start round to the right and at a higher level than the main slab. Step left onto the slab, move up and slightly left, then climb direct to a bolt belay on a big ledge with a fallen tree. Have a picnic and enjoy the view. You can walk off to the right (facing in).
Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the slab left of the belay, go right to a tree in a corner, then pull up to a tree at the top. Ab off, walk off to the right (facing in), or walk up to Chichi Iwa (5 minutes).

Red Storm 5.10b* 10m
The left side of the short wall right of Eightman. Technical and better than it looks.
Start up and right of Eightman. Step off the left slab onto the steepish right wall then climb diagonally right and up to a flake. Up this more easily to a tree and lower-off.

Jack Frost 5.9 10m
Another non-event.
Start just right of Red Storm and climb diagonally left to join it above its crux. Take care with some of the holds, especially lower down. (See if you can count how many times the first bolt has been repositioned.)

Mekake Iwa - Mistress Rock

The small steep face of less than perfect rock just below and right of Haha Iwa is never climbed on. Only one really decent route.

Either drop down from Haha Iwa or, from the righthand approach path to Chichi Iwa, follow a vague path that breaks out left after 75m. The routes are described from left to right.

Crane I 5.9 9m
Crusty and dirty climbing. As of summer, 2003, the bolts are AWOL and unlikely to be missed.
Start round to the left of the main face, left of a wide crack. Climb direct left of the crack to the top. Not sure if there's a lower-off or not.

Crane II 5.8 9m
Ditto this: another crap route. As of summer, 2003, the bolts are AWOL and unlikely to be missed.
Climb direct right of the wide crack. Where the angle relents, pull up to a lower-off on the left.

The Firm 5.11b* 12m
Fingery climbing up the left of the front face.
The first bolt is just under the small overhang. Gain it from the left or right, depending on which holds pull off. Pull over on better holds and continue direct to a junction with Crane II.

Jealousy 5.12c** 12m
Very fingery climbing up the right of the front face.
Start at the right edge of the front face. Climb to a break and pull left over this to get established on the grey face. Continue direct to a lower-off at the top.

Temptation 5.10d* 12m
The arete and slab on the right of the face.
Start as for Jealousy. Pull up and steeply right to gain the arete, then pull round to its right and climb slabbily to a lower-off.

The Ant and the Grasshopper 5.10b* 11m
Worth another star if the bottom section ever stops falling down.
Start under the centre of the smaller righthand buttress. Climb up to and over an overlap on Lego to the foot of a slab. Make neat moves up this using the arete, then a final steep pull to a lower-off.

Godzilla no Bessou - Godzilla's Holiday Home

Well hidden in the trees out to the right of Haha Iwa is a large crumbly slab straddling an impressive cave. The only route climbs the solid lower right slab.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa and Haha Iwa to just before a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow a cairn-marked path up for about 100m (this heads up to the right end of Chichi Iwa via the right end of Mekake Iwa and Haha Iwa). When level with the belay ledge at the top of Eightman Pitch 1, follow a very faint path out right over a flat boulder to a col. The crumbly left slab is now directly above you. The cave is set well back and easy to miss.

Ikkaku Troll - The Narwhal Troll 5.10d** 12m
The short slab right of the cave. Gloomy, but good.
Start at a short crack behind a fallen tree - good cam or wire if you want to protect the first clip. Make a scratchy, smeary layback to reach a tiny dike. Mantel with difficulty and then make good thin moves to a scoop. Smear more easily to a lower-off by a twee tree.

Rum Doodle

A large, mostly broken slab high on the ridge above and right of Chichi Iwa.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa and Haha Iwa to just before a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow the cairn-marked path up for about 100m and break off right as for Gojira no Bessou. Continue right past this and cross a scree slope. Zig-zag up the wooded slope to the big slab capped by a headwall with a diagonal crack.

Binder's Butter Beans 5.10d** 30m
A good route that comes in 3 parts: A typical, pleasant Ogawayama slab, a juggy low-angled slab, and a steep, technical face. Worth the hike. 8 bolts, no gear required.
Start at the lowest point of the slab, directly below the short but impressive headwall. Follow small holds left to jugs on the rib. Haul up and make thinner moves to easier ground. Continue slightly left to a ledge below the headwall. A technical sprint up this leads to the top and ab tree. The crack proves to be less helpful than its appearance promised from below. The first clip on the headwall is reachy - sorry, but a hold broke off after I'd placed the bolt.

Laputa no Tou - Laputa Tower

The squat, slabby tower high and right of Haha Iwa. A good place to escape the crowds. I was up there in summer 2014, and found some extra unreported routes on neighbouring rocks. They are generally on poor, vegetated rock and not worth it, but don't let that stop you. (It didn't stop me.)

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa to where a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow this stream awkwardly up for about 200m till it splits. There is a prominent square rock placed on top of a trig point-shaped block marking the branch left. Break out left and follow a faint, unmarked path for 70m until, hopefully, you see the bolts of Utsurundesu on the crag below the tower. You can avoid the bottom part of the stream by following the cairn-marked path just left of the stream then breaking out right to the stream (this path eventually heads up to the right end of Chichi Iwa via the right end of Mekake Iwa and Haha Iwa).

Sarupi Slab 5.8 11m
The short slab left of the central rib. Take a set of Friends. Sarupi is a kids' character, fluffy toy thing. Is there a Mister Fluffy? If there were, Sarupi would be like Mister Fluffy on acid.
Climb the centre of the slab direct to a small ledge and lower-off on the right. The gear consists of medium cams and is not obvious.

Boko Boko Kante - Bumpy Arete 5.8* 11m
The pleasant but short central rib.
Start as for Sarupi Slab, but step out right to the rib immediately and climb this to the ledge. There is a good Rock #4 slot behind a flake between the 2 bolts.

Utsurundesu - Taking Pictures 5.10b* 10m
The right face of the rock, finishing at a diagonal crack. A bit non-descript.
Climb the right face with a thin pull to gain the diagonal crack and continue to the ledge.
The following routes are found on the tower itself, effectively a tier above the Utsurundesu slab.

Laputa 5.11c**** 17m
A cracking slab route that gets steadily harder to the crux last move. The bottom slab is a bit crumbly.
To get to the start, scramble up the slope left of Sarupi Slab then back right to a cutaway, where the slab blends into the hillside on the left. Climb slightly right then direct past a dike to a big dirty break. A high smear over this is followed by increasingly technical moves to the top and a lower-off.

Sheeta 5.10b*** 18m
A good pitch with a scary step above the second bolt and some airy climbing up the top slab. A bit stiff for the grade (and I put it up from 5.10a!)
Start up the gully round to the right of Laputa and Utsurundesu. The route originally started on a small, square ledge with a 2-bolt belay gained by a step out left from the gully, but this is now very mossy. It's better, though still mossy, to start further up the gully and step up and left to the second bolt. Once established on the arete, pull left onto the slab and climb up and left to join the arete right of Laputa. Swing round left at a horizontal break and use a crack to finish just right of Laputa.

Pazoo 5.12c** 10m
A short steep route round to the right of Sheeta. Tie your second to a tree.
Climb the leaning wall, with no respite, to the lower-off of Laputa.

Riverside

The long, low curtain of rock across the river before you get to the chain. One of the top-rope black spots.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway past the toilets in the lower campsite. Cut down to the river, then follow this upstream past a dam and pool before crossing the river at cairns (This is the last crossing to get flooded after rain). Enter the jungle and follow a well marked path to the crag. You can also get here by following the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path downstream a short way then up to the crag. The path up and right of the crag leads to Kakushi Ko Iwa, then Imouto Iwa.

Riverside

Sonatina 5.9** 17m
Better than it looks. Worth another star if/when clean. Take Friends 1-3 for the flake.
Climb through some jungle to a ledge and the start of the route. Climb a tricky face to the flake, up this and exit right to a lower-off.

Black Sheep 5.9**** 18m
An excellent, varied pitch. 'Good value' for the grade.
Make a long reach for a flake and pull onto the slab. Go up to some flakey flakes and step left and climb a short groove to a right-leaning ramp. Follow this very awkwardly to its end, then dodge left round a bulge and go up to a lower-off.

Joconda 5.10d*** 25m
A good slab pitch with a tasty crux move and delightful climbing above.
Climb the attractive flake past a peg to the slab proper. Easier climbing leads to a stopper move off the ramp. Make sure you do it, though, because the climbing above is great. Move up to a slanting dike then hand-traverse this to a lower-off.

Half Cocktail 5.11b* 10m
A worthwhile filler up the short slab between the starts of Joconda and Toki no Odori.
Climb the slab to a lower-off. Sustained, with the crux at the top.

Toki no Odori - The Dance of Time 5.10c** 25m
Another good slab pitch with a stiff crux. The start can be green, but don't be put off.
Throw yourself in to two high pockets. Move up and right into a corner (Friend 2 if you need it), then curve left almost to Joconda and back right to quartz holds below an almost-crack. Climb this past one harsh move to a lower-off. An easier variation (5.10a) traverses past the almost-crack then goes up and back left to the lower-off.

Forte 5.11d 20m
Rarely climbed, and now very dirty.
Start on the ledge running in from the right. Very sustained climbing leads to the dike, above which saunter up the slab to the lower-off of Toki no Odori. The Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt.

Carmen 5.12b 10m
An unknown quantity: it probably hasn't had a second ascent.
Start on the ledge running in from the right. Climb the steep slab past a desperate mantel to a dike and lower-off. Also said to be impossible for the short.

Koala 5.10b 23m
A once-good pitch, gone to earth. Shame, because it's a lovely line. Take a rack and blowtorch. The bolted line to the right has been unclimbed and unclaimed for as long as I can remember.
Climb up to the flake/corner. Climb it, then move slightly left and up to a crack. Up this to a tree. Ab/lower off or walk off to the right (facing in).

Out of Balance 5.8** 15m
Pleasant climbing up a strong natural line. And if that's not corn, I don't know what is.
Follow the shallow bolted crack direct to a lower-off. Crux at half height.

Madame Butterfly 5.10a* 15m
The slab to the right. Not much of a line, but nice enough climbing. Friend 2.5 in the overlap.
Flubber to an overlap below twin pockets. Fun moves lead to a mantel onto a superjug. Pass the next bolt on the left and climb direct to a lower-off. A dirty variation passes the bolt above the superjug on the right at 5.10d.

The Upper Tier

Rendezvous 5.11a** 18m
Good climbing up the left side of the wall. The Japanese guide says it's an easy route to onsight, but I don't remember thinking that.
Start at the left end of the terrace above Out of Balance. Climb easily over the broken lower wall and make a tricky step up onto the cleaner face. Don't touch Bunbun. Left and up to a scary move and a lower-off.

Bunbun 5.11b*** 12m
Sustained climbing up the central line.
Zigzag steeply past a slanting crack and flake to a right-facing flake/corner. Up this to a lower-off on the right.

DOKUFU - Evil Woman 5.11a* 15m
The righthand line. A soft touch.
Steep moves up lead to the crux move getting stood up in the horizontal crack. After that, there's some pleasant jug-pulling to the lower-off of Bunbun.

Kakushiko Iwa - Love Child Rock

The small, steep face tucked away on the left of the path up to Imouto Iwa from Riverside. Scruffy and sharp and not very popular.

Follow the path right and then up from Riverside. When things start getting steep, look for the crag tucked away on the left. Easier said than done.
The routes are described from left to right.

Bluto 5.10a* 12m
The left arete. Not bad. Take medium Friends.
Climb up near the lefthand edge of the lowest overhang. Reach left for a good crack and swing over. Follow the arete to a communal lower-off.

Love Child 5.10c** 14m
The central line: the best route on the crag, and worth finding.
Start at the right edge of the lowest overhang. Pull steeply up and make a committing move to gain a crack. Continue semi-directly on good holds to the lower-off.

Wimpy 5.10b* 18m
A contrived bit of crack-finding. Take a rack.
Start just left of the corner of Olive. Pull up, then traverse left along the break almost to Bluto. Follow either of two disjointed cracklines to the top.

Popeye 5.10c 15m
The bolt line to the right of Love Child. Unexceptional.
Pull up as for Wimpy, but continue direct, using an arete on the right. The top crack is easy, but take small/medium Friends for insurance.

Olive 5.10a 15m
The rightmost line. Take a rack.
Huff and puff up the short steep corner to join, appropriately enough, Popeye.

Cal and Rich 5.11a 5m
A trivial top-rope problem up the short wall directly above Kakushiko Iwa. In fact, I'm being generous with 5m.
Find it, climb it and wonder why.

Fueromon no Oo Iwa - Pheromone Big Rock

Never been there, never seen it.

Don't know where it is either, but it must be somewhere up and right of Kakushiko Iwa.

Fueromon no Dai Oo - Great King Pheromone 5.12a** 8m
Errr.
Traverse, mantel, lower-off.

Tamago Iwa - The Egg

The blob of rock at the top of the ridge. More of a larval Half Dome, really.

Approach up the ridge started by Kakushiko Iwa, or follow a faint path into the brush from the main path to Imouto Iwa.

Nutella 5.12b* 10m
The centre of the short face down and left from The Egg.
Crimp the centre of the face left of the crack to a lower-off.

Tamago - The Egg 5.13b** 10m
The diagonal line up the front face of the supposedly egg-shaped rock.
Piece the bolts together by a series of desperate moves.

Imouto Iwa - Little Sister Rock

The steep slab that forms a backdrop to Mara Iwa.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path up the big dry stream. After a short while the path cuts left across the stream and disappears into the jungle at a cairn. Follow this path to the foot of Mara Iwa and continue left under the main slab then up to the foot of a cracked wall (from which Casablanca starts). The routes are described from right to left. You can also get here by following a path up and right from Riverside. It should take 20~25 minutes from the campsite.

The first two routes climb the underside of the right edge of the Casablanca face. Belay on a neat rock podium with a convenient tree right of the gully.

Ninpou - The Ninja Way 5.12d 10m
Very steep and very hard. Rumours of 13a abound.
Start round to the right of Casablanca. Boulder through the bulges on the righthand line to a lower-off.

No More Rain 5.12a**** 20m
An excellent, steep jug puller up the longer lefthand line. Very popular.
Pull into the corner and climb up till barred by your own private overhang. Dodge left round this and continue to where the angle eases. Pleasantly up the slab to a lower-off.

Casablanca 5.10b**** 25m
A superb crack pitch, marred only by the fact that it finishes in the middle of nowhere. Take a rack, but ditch the tinies and go heavy on the medium Friends. The crack is flared in places, so watch those placements.
Follow the crack all the way to a lower-off. Very sustained after the first 10m.

Super Casablanca 5.11d** 20m
The slab above the finish of Casablanca. No bolts, 3 cams, treat with caution.
From the top of Casablanca, climb a non-line right then back left, keeping your eyes peeled for pockets that look like they might accept gear.

Tatsu no Kotarou - Kotarou the Dragon 5.9*** 37m
Another good crack climb.
Pitch 1. 5.9 (14m) Climb the wide crack just left of Casablanca to a ledge and continue easily to belay on the second tree.
Pitch 2. 5.9 (23m) Climb the wide crack behind the belay on the right in a sort of slippery way to a huge tree. To descend, ab the route.

Oni Taiji - Exorcising Demons 5.9 30m
The wide crack left of the top pitch of Tatsu no Kotarou. Hardly ever climbed and now (2017) filthy.
Step left from the stance of Tatsu no Kotarou and climb the wide crack till it becomes a flake. Where the flake curves left, pull over and move up to a lower-off. (But remember: it's 30m to the stance!)

Papillon 5.10a**** 35m
An excellent route in its own right, but even better if combined with Jack to Mame no Ki. You'll be happier with at least one over-sized cam for the bottom crack.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Start 5m left of Tatsu no Kotarou. Climb over tree roots to a recessed wide crack and follow this till it narrows and arches left to a tree belay. (But if you've got the gear and the juice, just keep going!)
Pitch 2. 5.10a Pull into the crack in the right wall. Follow this in a superb position till it becomes a flake and bends back left to a lower-off in the corner.

Jack to Mame no Ki - Jack and the Beanstalk 5.10b***** 25m
Superb jamming. Finish up Papillon for one of the best outings at Ogawayama.
The start can be dank, but don't let that put you off. Climb the steep crack left of the arete on beefy jams till it thins and leads round the arete to a tree belay. Don't lower off! Do Papillon!

Taiyakiyaita 5.11a 35m
The scruffy crack left of Jack to Mame no Ki, followed by the slab left of Papillon. Never climbed.
Pitch 1. 5.11a Climb the dirty crack to a bolt, then traverse right into Jack to Mame no Ki and follow this to the tree belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10c Pull onto the slabby left arete as soon as possible and follow this to a lower-off.

Yokorenbo - Illicit Love 5.10c** 24m
The crack left again and right of the big dirty corner is cleaner than it looks and provides a good, well-protected struggle. Take plenty of bigs.
Start by scrambling up to a small bay with good trees at the base of the crack. Fight up the initial peapod crack with minimal help from the wall on either side to sinking jams where the pod closes. Continue more easily on superb jams and gear to where the crack joins the dirty corner. From here it is possible to climb the continuation wide crack on the right for a few metres before traversing left and going up to a lower-off in a tree, but it makes more sense to climb the corner directly to the tree.

Aijou Slab - Love Slab 5.12a* 25m
The slab right of Aijou Monogatari.
From the start of Aijou Monogatari, follow a rib to a cleaned slab. Climb the bolted line to a lower-off.

Aijou Monogatari - Love Story 5.8** 25m
The slanting crack in the big slab to the left. Gear can be hard to place.
Follow the crack till it peters out at a lower-off below some scruffy trees. This is the lower-off of Orion. From here it is 20m straight down to the ground. It is also possible to finish earlier at the stance of Cassiopeia Kidou, in which case, be prepared to share.

Cassiopeia Kidou - Cassiopeia Orbit 5.10b**** 40m
One of the original Ogawayama classics - which invariably means run-out on shite bolts and hard for the grade. Polished to boot. The bolts on the first pitch have been replaced, but it's still a classic. Take a light rack for the first pitch.
Pitch 1. 5.10b (20m) Climb a vertical dike in the centre of the slab past a frightening mantel onto a dike to reach an overhang. Skirt this on its left then go up and follow a flake to a bolt belay. You can also pull through the overhang at the first step and climb direct to the belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10b (20m) Step right to a couple of flakes and climb these. Continue direct to the third bolt. Drop down and move left round a rib, then climb direct to a lower-off.

Orion 5.11c** 20m
A rarely climbed route up the left edge of the slab. Take a Friend 2½ish for the corner.
Climb carefully up to a hairy mantel onto a dike. Continue up the flake that becomes a corner, then make a hard move up the steep slab above to gain a kink left and easier climbing to a lower-off.

The next four routes are gained by climbing up and around three trees in the gully to the left of Orion. After 5 or 6 metres, step right under a big dying cedar (I think - I'm not good at trees), then go up to a cramped terrace wedged between two faces, noting the potential of the whole caboodle for collapse. If you have any doubts, rope up!

Rarigurasu - Lariglas 5.11a* 16m
A rather unsatisfying slab pitch. The third clip is a gripper.
Start just up and left of where Orion almost steps onto the terrace. Climb neatly up a faint rib to the first bolt. Thin moves lead up to and onto a dike. Use a small flake on the left to make crux moves up to a flaky line leading up and left. Follow this to an awkward step up to join Manzu Magnum just below the lower-off.

Manzu Magnum 5.10d** 12m
Interesting and sustained climbing up the slabby groovy flaky line.
Start up and left of Rarigurasu. Climb the groove and exit it with difficulty. More delicate moves lead to an easier slab and a lower-off.

Psycho Mosquito 5.11c** 24m
The steeper wall opposite Manzu Magnum. Very fingery.
Pull up to a traverse line leading right. Follow this, then pull up again and follow the bolts to the ridge in a good position. Lower off.

Ayaka 5.10c*** 22m
Good face-climbing to the left of Psycho Mosquito. Ayaka is a girl's name. Also known as Saika.
Start almost at the left edge of the wall. Pull up and step right. Climb direct for a few metres then move right again. Finish direct in a good position. Lower off. Spaced bolts offer the opportunity of some good wangers. Not that you'd find me wanging.

The next five routes climb the rock left of the trees that get you up to Ayaka etc. Apart from Yellow Crash, they haven't been climbed in donkeys' and should be treated with suspicion.

Kogito - Cogito(?) 5.10a* 30m
A scruffy approach leads to a good open finish. Take a rack.
Start on the wedged boulder. Traverse left under a rib and go up to twin cracks. Climb these till they peter out, then continue past a bolt to join the right arete. Climb this in a good position to the top. It's better to have someone follow to get the gear, then ab off down Ayaka. Otherwise ab rather than lower off.

Yellow Crash 5.12a***** 20m
A wonderful steep jug-puller, usually with in situ dogger.
Start down and left of the main crag. Scramble up to a big tree just off the path and below a streaked wall. Climb the steep, unrelenting wall to a lower-off.

The next three routes start up a chimney about 30m left of Yellow Crash. There are also some unclaimed bolt lines around here.
Follow a faint path into the bush under Yellow Crash, keeping as close to the base of the rocks as possible. Mind your step, too - this is toilet country.

Samson 5.10b* 32m
A good long line, but the grunge is winning. Take a rack.
Climb to the chimney and follow it to a tree. Climb the continuation crack through an overlap to a flake (crux). Climb the flake to a corner and follow this to the top. Ab off or walk off to the left facing in.

Delilah 5.10a 14m
Very dirty.
Start just left of Samson. Climb the easy cramped face diagonally left to a crack in the overlap. Climb this (crux) to a horizontal tree. Ab off.

Blind Corner 5.8 30m
More dirt.
Start at a tree left of Delilah, gained from that route. Climb the wide crack above to a corner and climb the corner to the top. Ab off or walk off to the left facing in.

Mara Iwa - Dick Rock

The impressive pinnacle to the right of Imouto Iwa.

Mara Iwa - Front

Follow the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path up the big dry stream. After a short while the path cuts left across the stream and disappears into the jungle at a cairn. This path leads to the foot of Mara Iwa. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the bottom and right of the main rock. You can also get to Mara Iwa by following a path up and right from Riverside to Imouto Iwa.
In late 2010, two crazy French dudes ran a highline from the top of Mara Iwa to the top of Tatsu no Kotarou on Imouto Iwa. Have a look!

Yane no Ue no Tajan - Tajan on the Roof 5.9** 15m
A very pleasant slab, set just to the right of Mara Iwa itself.
Step up onto the slab, move out slightly left, then pad neatly to a lower-off below a protruding boulder.

The next four routes exist on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. I haven't done them and, barring momentous developments in the world of bionics, never will. There are also bolts in the roof behind Keyhead - I think some of these belong to a route called Cave Keyhead, but that's all I don't know about them.

Matatabi 5.14a* 10m
This means either "Silvervine" or "The Wandering Life of a Gambler", depending on which way up you hold your dictionary. A line up the right of the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical?
Traverse right out of The Specialist then finish direct.

Nekomata 5.14a* 10m
The central line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical? (Nekomata is a myhtical cat-like animal.)
Traverse not so far right out of The Specialist then finish direct.

The Specialist 5.13d** 15m
The central, direct line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical? Said to be the best of the bunch.
Well...

Melange 5.14c* 10m
The lefthand line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Ridiculously strenuous and technical?
Well...

Keyhead 5.10c* 12m
A rarely climbed route that skirts the cave on its left to finish up a crack. Take a set of Friends. It may have lost some holds that help you pull into the crack.
Climb the face just inside the cave to a bolt. Pull into the crack running out of the cave and follow this to the terrace at the back of Mara Iwa.

Silk Road 5.12c***** 25m
A superb face route.
Start between Keyhead and Sukizofurenii. Climb direct by reachy moves till almost level with the terrace on the right. Ignore the lower-off and traverse to the terrace.

Petashiman 5.13c** 50m
Lots of length, but not much quality. A (long) variation finish to Silk Road.
Climb Silk Road, but at the start of the traverse move up and left and climb the arete. Finish up Rocky Road or Stairway to Heaven.

Excellent Power 5.13a***** 50m
No new ground, but an excellent feeling if you pull this off!
Climb Silk Road, but halfway along the final traverse pull up and climb Rocky Road.

Sukizofurenii - Schizophrenia 5.11c*** 20m
The big bottomless corner low and right on Mara Iwa. Take a rack.
Start almost directly below the corner. Move up and slightly left, then back right to reach the corner (crux). Climb this to a lower-off on the left.

Stairway to Heaven 5.12a*** 35m
The big frontal rib. Originally started from the top of Holiday. The bolts are rather sportingly placed.
From the top of Sukizofurenii, pull up to the rib and climb it on its left. Traverse right into a shallow corner, climb this and finish direct.

Holiday 5.9*** 18m
A good route with one gripper move up the groove and excellent climbing up the flake. Take a rack.
Start below the short groove. Climb up to, into, and out of it with increasing difficulty. Reach for the flake, praise the lord, and layback all too quickly to a tree and lower-off.

Orange Road 5.11b* 14m
The righthand side of the slabby lower rib features hard moves on old, dodgy, badly placed bolts. Must be a classic.
Start down and right of the rib. Pull up onto it at a flake and follow it on small holds to a tree and lower-off. The crux is getting stood above the first bolt. It might be worth getting your second to belay over to the right as the bolt seems perfectly placed to flip you over if you pop.

Gankou Oyaji - Stubborn Git 5.11d** 15m
The lefthand side of the slabby lower rib has never been popular. Not sure why, as it's a good route. Some hard slab moves and a low completion rate.
Start left of the rib. Step up onto the slab and move up into a short groove. Climb this, step left and make a desperate smear up and left to a vague flake. Move back right, then up to a tree and lower-off.

JECC Route 5.10d*** 17m
Another of the original classics. Enjoyable, sustained slab-climbing after a bold start. Recent rebolting seems to have made the direct finish the standard version.
Start at the lowest point of the slab. Climb a thin flake (wires/small cam) and mantel onto a faint ledge where it ends. Climb direct on pinholes and shallow scoops to a barely discernible line of pockets slanting right to the tree and lower-off of Gankou Oyaji. From the tree, climb easily up the crack to clip the lower-off above the direct line of the route. Take care not to slip off with your finger in one of the pockets. The direct finish is 11a.

Todoke, Te no Hira - Reach, Palm! 5.10c*** 20m
A very enjoyable slab pitch with one hard move. Low in the grade.
Start by a tree where the slab slants up to the left. Climb easily rightward to the centre of the slab. Go up to pockets and make a long hard reach for a big hole. Mantel, then climb more easily to a ledge and lower-off.

Tenka-chan 5.11b*** 20m
The left edge of the broad front slab of Mara Iwa. A slippery and frustrating crux, followed by a confusing finish which different topos have in different places. Take a couple of medium cams for the flake.
Start just left of Todoke, Te no Hira. Climb easily up a scoop then step right onto the main part of the slab. Step up to the last of the decent pockets then move out right and up (crux) to a bolt and traverse back left to a flake in line with the rest of the route. Follow this more easily to a lower-off. (I think that's right.)
2016: Be warned: Not only is the first bolt missing, it came out in my hand. Treat the bolts on this route with caution!

Tokimeki wo Arigatou - Thanks for the Memories 5.11d* 18m
If I've got this right, a very short variation that straightens out Tenka-chan.
Follow Tenka-chan to where it moves right, but climb direct to the flake and on to the lower-off.

Muudo wa Ii Sen - Good Mood Route 5.8** 19m
A good, varied pitch. Better than it looks. Take a rack of medium Friends and wires.
Start a few metres up the slope from Tenka-chan, below and left of a niche. Climb up and into the niche. Pull out on the left and make a neat hand traverse and mantel to reach a lower-off at tree.

Pink Panther 5.10d 17m
A dirty route - never climbed. Take a rack, should you choose to break the mould.
Start a few metres up the slope from Muudo wa Ii Sen, below a disappearing crack. Pull up to the first crack, follow it, step left and climb a second crack to the tree of Muudo wa Ii Sen.

Mara Iwa - Back Face

Mara Iwa - Back
Access to the routes on the back face of Mara Iwa now requires a tough short scramble over tree roots and boulders. There are fixed ropes in place, but even so, care is required. Small people with small sacks might prefer the speleological approach. Alternatively, you can approach from the right via the start of Yane no Ue no Tajan.

Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo - The Return of the New Route King 5.11c*** 20m
A fun route centred on the obvious beak of Mara Iwa.
Start level with the top of Pink Panther and just to the right of Kawakami Kouta. Tie your second to a tree, then climb steeply to an overhang guarding a slab. Use the beak to pull onto the slab, then make a couple of tricky moves up to a lower-off below the top.

Kawakami Kouta - Song of Kawakami 5.8**** 15m
The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect.
Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

Sandayuu 5.8* 25m
The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! The name is an old boy's name.
Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

Black Hole 5.12b*** 20m
A very intricate face climb.
Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

Irregular 5.10d*** 20m
The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder.
Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

Regular 5.10c*** 20m
The next line to the left is easier than it looks and very popular.
Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off.

Blues Power 5.11c**** 15m
The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2.
Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position up the top slab to a lower-off at the top.

Juggernaut 5.12a** 25m
A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good.
Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

Rocky Road 5.12a**** 25m
The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa.
Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.

Below Mara Iwa

A route is recorded on a tiny crag visible on the left of the dry gully running up to Mara Iwa.

Take the righthand approach for Mara Iwa (as for Hop, Step, Jump). Keep your eyes peeled after leaving the stream bed. The crag is about 50 metres up.

Korogaru Daikon - Rolling Radish 5.12c** 8m
As in the big, white, Japanese horseradish. Short, steep and fierce. 2016, no hangers on the bolts, now regarded as a boulder problem.
Sustained moves on poor finger pockets. Don't forget your feet. As if you could.

The next routes are tucked into the woods below and right of Mara Iwa.

They are best approached by first going to the bottom slab of Mara Iwa, then dropping down the scree gully about 20m and following a faint path east. You immediately pass under a grotty green rock with two unreported bolt lines. Up the slope right of this (as you look at it) is the narrow bolted slab of Moss Side Story. Further right of this is a big low-angled slab. Heading up the gully right of this takes you to the slab of Undercooked, which finishes at the start of Overheat. Hop, Step, Jump is just to the right of this gully.
Alternatively, when you cross the dry stream on the main path to Mara Iwa, turn right and follow the stream bed to dam number 8. Step back and get a fix on the long slabby rib of Hop, Step, Jump, then make your own path up to it.

Moss Side Story 5.10c* 15m
The scruffy slab has some good moves. Possibly 10b with a good clean up. I slapped a name on it, although it is unrecorded.
Mantel onto a short dike at about 2m, then make a hard move up to a good flat hold on the right. Pull up into a scoop and continue easily to a short steep slab that would be white if it weren't covered in rock tripe. Step onto this and mantel to reach the terrace below Yane no Ue no Tajan. Rig up an ab/lower-off on a good tree.

Undercooked 5.10c** 20m
Again, a scruffy slab with good moves. Again, possibly 10b with a good clean up. Again, unrecorded, provisional name from me.
Pull up on jugs to a high first bolt and continue more easily to a ramp. Sustained moves off this lead to a high side hold on the left which allows a mantel to the final crunchy slab. Belay well back at the fixed line of Overheat. Note that there is some loose rock on this ledge in the line of your rope, so be careful when abbing/lowering off.

Hop, Step, Jump 5.11d*** 25m
Sustained slab moves up the big rounded tower down and right from Mara Iwa. Longer and harder than its appearance suggests. The logic of the name becomes apparent.
Gain the front of the slab by traversing in from the right and pulling round desperately using a goodish pocket. Continue almost directly and more easily to extremely technical finishing moves up the final tower. Ab off (for your rope's sake).

Unnamed 5.11d* 22m
The bolted face then slab just right of Hop, Step, Jump, joining it near the top. Not sure if this is has ever been claimed.
Start just right of Hop, Step, Jump, below a pocket in a short, steep face. Scary moves lead up to the slab. Continue diagonally left to the rib to join Hop, Step, Jump for its final moves.

Honeyhole 5.11c** 18m
The attractive slab and face up and right again.
Start a step up and right of Unnamed. Bold moves lead to a good flake. From its top, pull painfully on pristine quartz and curse the curse of alliteration. Finish slightly right by desperate slabbing and a painful one-finger pocket.

Eightline 5.8** 15m
The short crack in the recess up and right of Honeyhole (left of a huge wedged block). Take lots of Friends #2~3.
Start down and right of the main crack. Pull onto a block then pull left into the crack and follow it till it curves left and ends. A stiff pull should see you to a good break and easy finishing slab. Make your own belay on a tree or the bollard back and left (it's hard to resist the bollard!)

He wo Shita no wa Dare - Who Farted? 5.11a*** 15m
A fun, varied route up the left edge of the righthand face. Take small wires for the start.
Climb a short, tricky flake to an awkward mantel onto a dike. Continue up the arete above to a kind of ledge. Slap and smear a short slab on the right to a lower-off.

Yumi Katachi Kurakku - Bow-shaped Crack 5.10b* 10m
The curving crack right of He wo Shita no wa Dare, finishing in a grotty gully on the right - harder than it looks. Take a rack.
Step up to the crack and follow it rightwards past a bolt (crux!) to its end. Pull across to the arete (bolt) and step into the gully. Someone's going to have to follow to get the gear.

Above Mara Iwa

There are some good routes on the hillside up and right of Mara Iwa. Two of them are gems.

From the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa, follow a path up the hillside. (This leads to Sotsugyou Kinen in 30 metres.) Just a few metres up from the boulders a faint path leads right to a short steep face. This is the far left end of the split block containing Overheat (you can also get here by scrambling right and up of Yane no Ue no Tajan). This is toilet country, by the way, so mind your step. The following 2 routes are unreported:

Face and Flake 5.10b** 14m
Some good steep moves reward you with a joke anchor. If you do this, I recommend you preplace a backup for this anchor.
Pull into an undercut scoop then step up to an obvious short flake. A long reach/slap from this gains a jug. Mantel this to another scoop with a decrepit lower-off dangling down from a tree.

Bulging Face 5.11a* 16m
Steep moves through bulges in a good position.
Start just right of Face and Flake, by a tree stump. Swing out over space then pull through the bulges with a hard move onto the steep slab. Continue more easily to a flake and one more hard move onto the top slab (which will be easier if you brush it first). The lower-off in the tree has no krabs in 2016.

For Overheat, follow a path round the back and then down the far side of this boulder to a big tree with a fixed rope leading onto the ledge with the horizontal tree of at the base of the route.

Overheat 5.11b*** 15m
Fierce fingerjamming in a good position. Take a rack.
Step off the tree and heave around the undercut on painful fingerstingers to gain a standing position on the face. A few sustained moves lead to sinking jams and so to the top.

For the next routes, follow a path up the hillside from the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa. 50 metres up is a steep whitish slab with angular features.

Sotsugyou Shiken - Graduation Exam 5.10a*** 20m
A great route that weaves up the steep slab. Hard for the grade (upgraded to 10b in the latest book, which makes it easy for the grade). I've also seen this written up as Sotsugyou Kinen - Graduation Anniversary.
Start at the lowest point of the slab. Climb the left of the slab then traverse a thin break right to a block on the arete and move thinly up to an overlap. Swing left and then pull over. Easier climbing leads diagonally right to a lower-off.

Sentaa Shiken - Central University Entrance Exam 5.8* 15m
The easy broken slab just right.
Start at the left edge of the slab. Pull up and into the centre of the slab as soon as possible. Continue to a slanting break and make a crux pull past a flake to the top, avoiding the chossy crack on the left. Lower off a tree or two.

Gentei Kaijou - No Restrictions 5.11b 12m
The rather pointless short slab just right.
Climb the centre of the short slab past 2 bolts, without using either arete. 10d if you do it as the name suggests.

Nyuugaku Shiken - Entrance Exam 5.10d** 16m
Good thin moves up the slab 10m right.
Start at the lowest point of the slab, at a broken section below a bulge. Pull up and mantel onto the base of the slab proper, then smear neatly to a dike. Mantel twice to the top. Lower off a tree on the left.

Ane Iwa - Big Sister Rock

Further up and right is a series of biggish, broken crags. These were developed between 2000 and 2004 and offer strong evidence to support the Harrison Theory Of Ogawayama ("Routes within 30 mins of the campsite climbed since 1995 are hard, crap, or both"). Treat with caution.

From the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa, follow the path up the hillside to Sotsugyou Kinen. Follow an indistinct path right past Nyuugaku Shiken and drop down into a bay containing, for the time-being, at least, Shita no Ane Iwa. Distinguishing features include the golden headwall of Ojos Asi up above and the fallen blocks of Gurasshio down below (soon to be joined by the golden headwall of Ojos Asi).

Ane Iwa South

Shita no Ane Iwa - Lower Big Sister Rock

Another contender for the title of Worst Crag at Ogawayama.

Yamashi 5.10b** 12m
But first, the short subsidiary face on the left provides a natty jaunt.
Climb the centre of the face direct to a lower-off. Low in the grade and quite enjoyable.

JINRO 25 5.10d* 20m
A varied route up the left edge of the left slab. Take a rack.
Start at a shallow corner. Climb this (harder than it looks) then move right and back left to the left edge of the overhang (possible medium Friends). Pull over on some excellent holds and make thin moves up the top slab in a good position to reach a lower-off. It goes without the gear, but with the possibility of a real humdinger.

Gurasshio - Glazzio? 5.10b* 18m
A steep, direct jugpuller up the broken ground to the right of JINRO 25, finishing at the same lower-off.
Start at the largest of several fallen blocks of various sizes. Inspiring, isn't it. Climb over the block to an overlap, then climb direct to the right edge of the overhang on JINRO 25 and pull over good but suspect holds. Continue to the lower-off.

Tatanka 5.10a 10m
The bottom section only of the face right of the rockfall.
Climb direct to a lower-off at 10m. Insecure moves on poor rock make for an unpleasant experience. High in the grade.

Ojos Asi - Eyes Like Yours 5.11b* 22m
The broken face and golden headwall right again.
Start slightly right of the headwall and climb easily over broken ground to some golden Weetabix beneath it. Pull onto the headwall from the right and make a couple of technical moves to an easy finishing slab. Lower off. Good positions, but crap rock.

Gyuushi Raisu - Beef Tallow Rice 5.10b 18m
The recessed slab to the right with a steep finish.
From the first bolt of Ojos Asi, saunter up and right over assorted debris to a short wide crack in a bulge. Pull over any old how and ab off a badly placed anchor.

Usagi to Odoru Onna - The Woman who Dances with Rabbits 5.10a 11m
The corner in the corner to the right.
Make awkward moves up the cleanest parts of the double corner to an imaginative (which is better than imaginary, at least) lower-off. Another poor route.

Ue no Ane Iwa - Upper Big Sister Rock

From Usagi to Odoru Onna, drop down then follow a slim path diagonally right across the slope for about 40 metres to a slightly slabbier crag of slightly better rock. Some of the bolting and route-finding on this crag beggars belief.

Ooki na Matsu no Ki no Shita de - Under a Great Big Pine 5.10a* 20m
The left edge of the slab.
Climb the slab to an overlap (crux). Pass this on its right then head up to a block on the arete. Instead of finishing direct up the pleasant top slab, step left into a corner and pull onto the crumbling slab on its left. Skitter up the left edge to a lower-off in a huge pine.

Tsuyobi no Shokujin - Master Chef 5.10b** 25m
Nice climbing, especially low down, but again the route-finding detracts from the fun. Take a couple of medium wires for the flake.
Start just right of Ooki na Matsu no Ki no Shita de. Climb direct to a prominent short flake (bomber wires, but not really necessary) and pull onto the monster jug at the top of this. Neat moves left past the bulge (crux) gain an easier slab. Climb this to a ledge then inexplicably traverse right to a cracked tower. Pull up this to a poor lower-off but a fine view.

Ka-Ching! 5.10a* 15m
The bottom section only of the slab just right of Tsuyobi no Shokujin.
Climb direct to a hidden lower-off over a bulge.

Jungle Field Guide 5.10a 18m
The longer, more shattered line to the right.
Start at a short bolted slab between trees. Climb direct to broken ground, then diagonally left to a kind of cracked rib. Follow this to a lower-off just below the top. Loose!

Halapeño Ultra Hot 5.11a* 25m
Good moves but crap rock up the wall 7m right.
Start behind a prominent dead tree right of Jungle Field Guide. Pull up to a big shallow pocket. Stand in this (crux) to reach a dike above an overlap. Make the most of it - it's the only solid hold on the route. Pull onto the dike using spaced jugs in the shattered crack on the left and move up and right to the headwall. Sprint up this before you have time to worry about the crumbly white flake you're using. Lower off.
E4 5c if you ask me, even with the bolts, and 5.10d if you use the crunchy flake by the tree on the crux.

Animaraizu - Animalize 5.10c* 25m
Not sure about the name. More good moves on crap rock.
Start just left of the big corner 7m right of Halapeño Ultra Hot. The one that seems to be constantly falling down. Pull up a slab to a short face. Pull up this to a finishing slab right of a big detached block. Instead of finishing up the slab, pull across the block to finish just right of Halapeño Ultra Hot. Lower off. According to the first ascensionist, "Treat the seventh bolt with care because the block it's in might come out." I ask you. My advice is to ignore the seventh bolt and take Friends 1 and 1½ for the slab on its right. Move up the slab then swing across the block to the final bolt.
(Climbed again in 2016 - the top block is seriously unstable.)

Gold Glitter 5.10a* 11m
The slab right of the big corner. Unfortunately, nowhere near as nice as it looks.
Climb out right under the first bolt to good holds. Pull up to a slanting flake and step left to good holds below a flake in the centre of the slab. Thin moves up lead to a jug and mantel to a terrace and lower-off.

Ane Iwa Honpou - Big Sister Spire

From the campsite, this appears to be situated behind and to the left of Imouto Iwa, but for the moment access is described from Mara Iwa. The top offers superb views.

From the left end of Ue no Ane Iwa, follow a path left up the slope to the col. The cracked tower in front of you is, unfortunately, the crag. Be careful, because there are some big drops round here.
You can get to the top of the spire very easily by pulling through trees up onto the ridge right of Bibou no Kamisama, then scrambling carefully back right. This is recorded as a route called Sanpo ni Ikou (Let's Go for a Walk).

Miyazaki Hang 5.10c** 18m
The corner and overhang in the centre of the face. Take a rack.
Climb the obvious central corner-crack to the main overhang. Save your small Friends for the crack under the roof. Step right, pull over the centre of the hang and saunter to the top. Some dodgy rock, but enough good placements to make it safe. Ab off.

Nantonaku Hoge Hoge - Oh, Well 5.10c* 17m
The cracked rib to the right edge of the overhang.
Climb shattered rock to a recess below the right edge of the overhang. Make a neat pull left and up and continue direct up the easy slab to the top. Ab off.

Gimme More 5.10a* 20m
A pleasant weave up the left arete of the narrow face above where the approach path from Ue no Ane Iwa arrives.
Climb the arete, left and right, but mainly right, to a neat pull and mantel onto the top slab. The main difficulty seems to be staying out of Boku no Basho.

Boku no Basho - My Place 5.10a* 20m
The right arete of the face of Gimme More. The last bolt is in poor condition.
Pull up to a good hold just left of the arete. Mantel awkwardly onto this and climb the arete for a few metres using shattered holds on the right. Pull left onto the face and climb neatly to the finishing slab. Lower off.

Bibou no Kamisama - Goddess of Beauty 5.10c 20m
The rather ambitiously named shattered face right again. You could probably bring action against the first ascensionists under consumer protection legislation.
Start just right of Boku no Basho. Climb the grotty face right of a corner faster than it falls down to a cracked hang guarding a crunchy slab. Pull over on the left to reach a lower-off on the slab above. There is a trough full of granola next to the lower-off (so it's probably safer to go to the lower-off of Boku no Basho etc back and left).

Ane Iwa North

This area gets a little sunshine in the morning and that's about it.

Follow the Kimpusan Highway to a prominent left turn leading down to the big stream at a small dam (with sluice) and very inviting pool. Head downstream for 30m (past the end of the stacked boulders) and cross the stream wherever possible about 20m before the dam made of iron girders. Also look for a stream on the opposite bank. Follow a path up the hillside alongside this stream. Apart from the start, this is well marked with cairns and white tape. After about 200m, the path heads right and leaves the stream and soon becomes an almost unbroken chain of fixed ropes. Follow these to a small bay under the impressive slab that is Kojuuto Slab.

Ane Iwa North

Kojuuto Slab - Brother-in-Law Slab

The huge, diamond-shaped slab located under the righthand, vegetated spire as seen from the car park.

Cut 5.9* 12m
Climbs to the anchor at 12m.
Start at the lowest point of the slab, almost directly below the anchor. Climb to the anchor by some neat moves between jugs. May need a brush.

Kattou - Conflict 5.12c** 35m
A hard route up the centre of the slab.
Follow Cut to the anchor, then continue pretty much directly to a lower-off just below the top of the slab. Sustained and already getting dirty. Descend by 2 abs.

Tensetsu 5.12b** 27m
Another long hard slab. I think the name is a brand of booze.
Climb the boltline up the right edge of the slab. The 4th bolt may require a hanger. 60m rope recommended.

Kojuuto Slab Left

The steep face just left of Kojuuto Slab.

Project 5.12a 16m
Not climbed yet.
Start in the steep gully with a huge chockstone overhead. Climb the face.

Psycho Circus 5.11b* 16m
The bolt line just right of the arete.
Start by a deformed tree. Initially juggy moves soon turn nasty. Make tricky moves up then, where the angle eases, step right and pull over crumbly rock to a lower-off.

The crack right again is an aid route. Didn't think we still did them.


Gaichi Iwa

The steep, slanting face just down left of Kojuuto Slab Left.

Rikon Choutei - Divorce Mediation 5.7 10m
An easy route somewhere around here.
Start just left of a depression, well round to the left of the main face. So far left I couldn't find it.

Super Warikan - Splitting the Bill 5.10b* 16m
The left arete of the face starts out steep but ends up slabby.
Start by the arete at the left end of the terrace. Steep pulls on jugs lead to an easy slabby middle section. Continue direct over worsening rock to finish over a bulge. Lower-off.

Bang Bang BANG 5.10c** 15m
The steep face right of Super Warikan.
Start just right of the arete. Climb direct on generally good holds to the crumbly top slab. Crunch carefully up to a lower-off.

Super Hoge Hoge 5.11b* 15m
The steeper line right again.
Climb the steep face to the bulge. Pull through (crux) and finish up the inevitably crumbly slab.

Nenzureba Hana Hiraku - If You Bolt it, They will Come 5.11a* 17m
The face and longer slab to the right. Probably unclimbable without a clean by the time you read this.
Start near the right edge of the face. Pull up the steep dirty section to finish up the more difficult crumbly slab above. Lower off.

Akai Slab - Red Slab

Not obvious from the campsite, this large slanting slab sits on the left shoulder of Kojuuto Slab. The routes on the front (right) are open and enjoyable. The routes on the left have a dank, steep start and the further left you go, the worse the rock.

Head up the short steep gully capped by a chockstone in between Kojuuto Left and Gaichi Iwa. Follow a hacked path up and right to the right edge of the slab.
Routes described as approached, from right to left.

Tameshigatten - Try it... You'll See 5.10b* 23m
The flake/corner marking the right edge of the slab is good if clean, but currently clogged. Take medium and large Friends.
Start a step up and right from the access path. Climb the flake to a tree, flummox round this and climb the upper flake till it peters out. Mantel right onto the edge of the terrace, then climb the slab near its right edge past 2 bolts to a lower-off consisting of a bolt with a short section of chain and a sling in the tree on the right. It might be a good idea to make a couple of moves up and left to the lower-off of Haru ni Nattara.

Haru ni Nattara - When Summer Comes 5.12a*** 20m
The impressive clean brown slab left of the crack.
Start at a step in the path on the left, under an attractive crack. Pull onto the slab and climb the slab easily at first to a kink right. Sustained moves lead to a mantel level with the terrace of Tameshigatten. Gripper moves from here gain a good pocket and bolt, from which a neat, shallow flake leads to a lower-off.

Casaroja 5.10b*** 20m
The crack in the slab just left of Haru ni Nattara gives an excellent route. Take a rack up to Friend #3.
Climb to the first bolt of Haru ni Nattara, swing left into the crack and follow it till it disappears. Continue up the pleasant continuation flake to a lower-off.

Shinku no Touzoku - The Crimson Pirate 5.11a*** 25m
The slab left of Casaroja, gained by an "interesting" step onto and off a spike. Take Friends #2~3 for the flake.
Start 5m left of Casaroja, by a couple of stacked blocks. Layback carefully up the left side of these to where the second block tapers to an alarmingly thin point. (You can also reach this point by traversing left from the start of the crack of Casaroja.) Step onto the tip-top of the spike and use a flake to pull onto the slab. Layback up this (cams) and then pull right at the overlap onto a slab. Stretch right for a big pocket and use this to gain a break. Pull up and left onto the crux final slab.

Akaoni Hasei Route - Red Devil Variation 5.10c* 18m
Basically a direct start to Red Devil.
Climb the right edge of the steep wall to a difficult pull onto the slab. Trend up and slightly left to join Red Devil.

Akaoni - Red Devil 5.10b* 18m
Pleasant slab climbing after a steep start.
Pull onto the steep wall and drift right across a slab to a line of bolts left of a flake. Move up to an overlap and make good moves up to a lower-off.

Hoge Hoge no Daikoushin - The Hoge Hoge March 5.11b* 20m
The next line along is harder but better than its neighbours.
Climb steeply up to the slab. Step right to a vague flake then climb direct to a lower-off.

Hageitou - Joseph's Coat 5.10b 20m
It's a plant. And the last bolted line on the left. A poor route.
Start just right of a grotty gully. Pull up steep, greasy rock using good flakes on the left to gain a great jug and slabbier ground. Head up and slightly left to a big hollow flake. (The further left you go, the bigger the holds and the worse the rock.) Climb carefully up the flake to a lower-off.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Pinnacle

This is a bunch of routes on generally poor rock in a dank bay directly beneath the main pinnacle face. You're inspired already, aren't you.

From Hageitou, follow an indistinct path left to a gully (the continuation of the stream you started out in). Just below a slim white pillar (the start of Koki no Yorokobi) cross the gully and scramble down fixed ropes into a small overgrown bay. Routes are described from right to left.

Ooki na Mizuumi - The Big Lake 5.10b 15m
The steep face on the right.
Climb the face to a lower-off. Sorry, but that's all you're getting.

Rifujin Daimaou - Crazy Devil 5.10d* 15m
The steep face right of the fissure.
Climb the face to a lower-off.

Konoegyuu - Konoe Beef 5.10b 17m
The slanting crack to the left of the fissure. Take a rack.
Climb the crack, turn the arete and finish direct.

Boukun J - Tyrant J 5.10a 15m
The face between the crack and the arete.
Climb direct between the crack and the arete to a lower-off.

Happy Birthday To Me! 5.10b 15m
The tiny arete on the left.
Climb the arete to a lower-off, if you must.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Gully Walls

This area is basically the short steep slab that starts from a narrow terrace leading left from the approach gully, at the point where the gully becomes no longer walkable. These routes finish at the same level, but round to the left, as the routes at Ane Iwa Honpou start.

From Hageitou on Akai Slab, follow the path into the bush and across into the gully, as for Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Pinnacle, but continue straight up the gully. The short tower from which Koki no Yorokobi starts is immediately visible on the left. For other routes, continue up the gully for 20m to a narrow terrace below a steep slab on the left. After Koki no Yorokobi, the routes are described from right to left.

Koki no Yorokobi - Life begins at Seventy 5.10b** 70m
Overall, worthwhile, with a superb crux move and final positions, but a lot of dross lower down.
Pitch 1. 5.8    Start in the gully at a short, white tower on the left. Climb the front of the tower, steeply at first, to dawdle up to an anchor at the left end of a steeper slab. There should be 3 bolts on the tower, but 1 might be missing, in which case, be careful.
Pitch 2. 5.9    Climb the steep slab above the belay on generally good holds on generally crap rock to the lower-off of Rabbit Kyousoukyoku. I'd recommend inviting the first bolt of the next pitch to the belay party.
Pitch 3. 5.10b Climb the shattered groove behind the belay to mantel right and gain a sloping ledge. Tricky moves off the left edge of this enable another mantel onto an easy-angled slab. Top out up the short rib left of the trees.
It is possible to ab back the way you came, but better to ab 20m down the "short" side of the pinnacle (down Nantonaku Hoge Hoge) to the col and then scramble steeply down (fixed ropes in place, but be careful) to the top of the approach gully.
The next 4 routes start on the slim terrace leading left out of the gully.

Kiss Kara Hajimaru Story - It Started with a Kiss 5.10a* 18m
The "fruits" of a mammoth gardening session, apparently.
From the right edge of the terrace, pull right over a dirty bulge, then head up and right to climb a steep dusty grey slab to a lower-off.

Otsuka Direct 5.10b* 36m
The next "line" to the left. The second pitch requires medium and large cams.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Climb steeply to a small overhang. Turn this on the right, then climb direct using a vague crack to a belay just down and left of the start of Miyazaki Hang.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Move up over easy ground to a rib and shallow corner below a prominent detached brown flake. Climb direct to the top of the pinnacle. treat the flake with care.
It is possible to ab back the way you came, but better to ab 20m down the "short" side of the pinnacle (down Nantonaku Hoge Hoge) to the col and then scramble steeply down (fixed ropes in place, but be careful) to the top of the approach gully.

Rabbit Kyousoukyoku - Rhapsody Rabbit 5.10a* 17m
The obvious line of weaknesses left again is a touch more fun, but nowhere near as much fun as the cartoon it's named after.
After a stiff starting pull, saunter up the slab on good holds to below a slanting bulge. Pull right over this then go left and up to a lower-off.

Lettuce no Meisanchi - Land of Lettuce 5.8* 10m
I think the correct expression is "a slight route".
From the left edge of the terrace, climb easily up to a steep section below a small crusty flake at which the angle eases. Pull up neatly to a lower-off.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Kabu

This is confusingly named. It's basically a group of routes directly below the north side of the summit and to the left of Koki no Yorokobi. I haven't done them, and I'm not really sure about the approach, so be careful if you head out there. Parasite and Hide Your Heart start round to the left of the belay at the top of pitch 2 of Koki no Yorokobi.

Parasite 5.10b 22m
The left line up the face left of Koki no Yorokobi pitch 3.
Traverse left to the lefthand line of 4 bolts. Follow these then pull over onto the easy angled slab above. Finish up the short rib left of the trees.

Hide Your Heart 5.11c 22m
The right line up the face left of Koki no Yorokobi pitch 3.
Traverse left to the righthand line of 4 bolts. Follow these then pull over onto the easy angled slab above. Finish up the short rib left of the trees.

Yorokobi Gumi - The Happy Brigade 5.10c* 23m
The arete left of the start of Koki no Yorokobi pitch 1.
Scramble up left of Koki no Yorokobi pitch 1. Start up the face and head right to the arete as soon as possible. Follow this in a good position to an anchor.

Domino 5.12b* 23m
The centre of the steep face left of Yorokobi Gumi.
Start up Yorokobi Gumi and head left to climb the centre of the face past a small hang. Finish at the same point as Yorokobi Gumi.

Nani Ga Nandemo Hoge Hoge - What do You Mean, "Oh Well"? 5.11c 55m
A long, meandering pitch that attempts to make the best of the rock left of Domino. Bit of a lost cause, really. 60m rope required for the abs.
Scramble up and left of Domino to start. Climb a bolted crumbly crack to a bolted crumbly face, always heading vaguely left. Continue past an ab station (remember where it is!) and then follow an arete back right to finish up the short rib left of trees of Koki no Yorokobi. Ab off.

Kimo Dameshi - Test of Courage 5.11b* 40m
Another long pitch that searches for good rock out left of Domino (according to the first ascensionist, well worth a look). 60m rope required for the abs. Take a rack.
Start well to the left and down from Nani Ga Nandemo Hoge Hoge (past a "project"). Climb a steep slab to twin overlaps. Pull through these to finish up a steep crack. Ab off.

Shikaku Iwa - The Square

The crag that won first prize in the Not Being Square-shaped Contest.

Coming from Mara Iwa, follow the path round the back of Overheat, but continue across towards the big gully. Where this path hits the gully, head up till the crag is visible on the right. You can also get to the gully by following an incomplete path along the line of crags up and right from Sotsugyou Shiken. A 15-minute slog up the gully from below Mara Iwa is also possible (take the left fork when presented with the choice).

Furandon Nougakkou no Buta - The Pig of Flandon Agricultural College 5.12b* 15m
Sorry, but that's the best I could do with the name. This was a preliminary route for one of the first (and last) climbing competitions on Japanese rock.
Start at the left edge of the west face. Climb the edge of a crack (as an arete), then traverse out and up to the bolted crack. Follow this and the face above to a lower-off.

Kesshou Route - Final Route 5.12a* 10m
The men's final after the above preliminary. Marginally enjoyable.
Start in the same place but traverse out lower down, then layback up to a good jam. Finish more easily.

Milky Way 5.11c** 13m
Almost worth the slog.
Climb the curving crack on the right of the face. Where it ends, pull directly up the steep face on positive holds.

Limelight Wall

A lovely-looking face hidden away in a superb situation above and behind Mara Iwa. Only one route to date.

According to old guides, a path breaks off left and leads directly to this face from the path from Overheat to the big gully. You're welcome to try. Otherwise, slog up the gully in 15 minutes from Shikaku Iwa. The crag is the attractive face at the head of this gully.

To Walk or Not to Be 5.11c** 25m
Good open climbing in a wonderful setting, and it's a soft touch technically - but crap rock. Belay well to one side of the line - and stay awake!
Climb the central slab on crumblies to a break. Climb more steeply into a recess, then pull out to easier moves below a prominent beak. Finish past a disintegrating flake at a lower-off behind the beak. This lower-off was in appalling condition in June, 2000 and I haven't been back since. Now nip down to the shop, no offence, buy yourself the Japanese guide and tick yourself a 12a.

Sado-masochists who have done everything may want to visit Riverbank Area, the Padley Quarry of Ogawayama.