唐沢
The Roof Rocks

The Yane rocks are the series of granite peaks bounding the Ogawayama area to the northwest. They are numbered in series as approached from below and right. I've also included a few smaller crags in the area.

The Roof Rocks

The photo below is taken from the top of Kitsune Iwa, i.e. looking pretty much directly north. The car park is to the southeast of the rocks so the view is quite different.
Roll your mouse over it to see crag names. Click a name to jump to the crag description.

Yane Iwa


The map below is also viewed south to north.

The Roof Rocks Map

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
1 Yane Iwa Honpou
2 Yane Iwa Gohou
3 Yane Iwa Yonhou
4 Ebi no Shippou
5 Yane Iwa Sanpou
6 Yane Iwa Nihou - Main
7 P.T.A. Slab
8 Jantaku Slab
9 Omusubiyama Slab
Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
10 Yane Iwa Ippou
11 Junjou Iwa
12 Bireini Purizun etc.
13 Bicycle Dike etc.
14 Soramame Slab
15 Onigiri Iwa
16 Suishou Slab
17 Zoku Zoku Ojisan Iwa
   


Zoku Zoku Ojisan Iwa

The short steep face and slab in the woods right of the upper campsite, visible from the stream, is the closest crag to the campsite.

In the upper campsite where the main track bends sharply left, take a prominent right fork and cross the stream. Where this track narrows and bends left, break off right to the nearest sizable rock. You have arrived. Five minutes from the big carpark (assuming you get it right).

Hitosashiyubi - Index Finger 5.9* 12m
The lefthand of two cracks on the left side of the crag - take a rack.
Follow the crack on good but painful jams to where it thins. Balance up to a jug where the crack closes completely and swing up and right to the final bolt of After 5.9. Finish up this.

After 5.9 5.10b* 14m
A pleasant route with a tricky start and easy finish. The top slab might need a brush.
Make tricky moves using a shallow crack to gain a break, then mantel to the foot of the slab. Up the centre of the slab to a lower-off.

Suishou Slab - Quartz Slab

The clean white slab in the woods right of the upper campsite, up and left of Zoku Zoku Ojisan Iwa. The Main Slab has some excellent slab routes, but is a top-rope black spot.

Cross the stream right of the upper campsite as for Zoku Zoku Ojisan Iwa. Follow this track left past Zoku Zoku Ojisan Iwa and up to a popular bouldering area (home of Banshousha, among others). The path bends back right and up to a slim slabby rib with two boltlines on its front - Dumbo Iwa. The Main Slab is directly above this. It should take about 10 minutes from the campsite.
You can also get here by dropping down from the Panorama Hiking Course about 100m up from the cairn for Yane Nihou. The path down is obvious, but not the one that cuts in (left) to the crag.

Dumbo Iwa - Dumbo Rock

The slim slabby rib mentioned above. The lower half is split neatly in two by a wide crack with two maligned trees.

Suishou Slab - Dumbo Iwa

Zou no Kiba - Elephant's Tusk 5.10b* 13m
The line left of the crack. Awkward and strangely unsatisfying.
Start the slab using the left arete. Continue to a small tree at the top of the crack on the right. Make a tricky move up and mantel onto a shoddy dike to reach a lower-off.

Zou no Hana - Elephant's Trunk 5.10d** 12m
The line right of the crack is very thin and fingery, but technically straightforward. 10c if you use the crack on the left at the bottom.
Step onto the base of the slab and make a hard pull using a shallow pocket (crux) to reach a good hold in a dike. Mantel and move up to a seemingly blank section. Climb this by steady smearing and continue direct past a dike to the top. Lower off.

Kento No Ento - The Ent from Kent 5.11b* 8m
Up the slope to the right is a short dirty wide crack. Right again is an undercut short thin flake below a bottomless crack in the top slab. Some good varied moves, but too short.
Touch-and-go moves up the flake (good wires) lead to a bolt, which protects a hard pull up and left onto the slab. Fill the short crack on the right with Friends (#0~1.5) and then make a spooky step up on to a dike, bringing the top into reach. Choice of lower-offs on adjacent routes.

Zou no Mimi - Elephant's Ear 5.10a 5m
The boulder-problem that thinks it's a route on the right sidewall. This route is an insult to its anchor. The flake at the start may not be with us for long.
Clip and grab a juggy flake. Heave over the undercut start and clip again. Try not to pull too hard! Heave again and mantel. Hey Presto! you've finished. Lower off.

The Main Slab

Suishou Slab - Main

Supernoizu 5.11c** 15m
A desperate start and bold, pleasant finish. The third bolt needs replacing.
Start on the left sidewall of the slab, about 5m up the gully. Make a couple of steep moves to gain a good thin dike and heave round onto the slab with a nose for aid. Follow the dike up and slightly left as it almost disappears into the top slab. Lots of climbers try this after getting their confidence up on Noizu. And fail.

Noizu 5.11a**** 20m
More fun with dikes. In its original state, this route was protected by 3 RCC bolts. The first time I did it, 3 hanger bolts had been added. Now, the RCC bolts have been replaced with hanger bolts and 2 of the extras have been removed, making for necky 1st and 3rd clips. Note that the first couple of metres stay greasy long after the rain has stopped.
A hard pull onto the slab gains small sharp holds in the dike. Easier climbing leads to a distant third clip at a steepening. Make a balancy move up to clip the last bolt, then drop down and follow the dike diagonally right to a wide crack - a lovely sequence. Climb the crack or slab just left to a lower-off. Lots of climbers end up grabbing their quickdraw in the last bolt to complete the clip.

Unknown 5.7* 20m
The obvious wide crack. For some reason, never listed in Japanese guides.
Climb the crack on big holds to the Noizu lower-off. Not much gear after you pull over the bulge, so be careful.

Yajirobee 5.11b** 18m
Much better than it looks. It could do with a bolt and direct finish above the crux. A yajirobee is a kind of balancing toy.
Climb the green slab to the overlap. Whack some Friends in and reach up using a thin flake to make a stirring mantel (you might also consider a sling in the tree - I did, and it made me a happier man). Make a desperate crux smear to gain a thin flake up and left, then mantel and scratch scarily up to easier ground and a lower-off well back.

Unknown 5.9** 15m
The attractive flake right of Yajirobee. Again, for some reason, never listed in Japanese guides.
Gain the flake from the right and climb it pleasantly past a small tree to a bigger tree. Ab off this or mosey up and right to the chain of Abata mo Ekubo. The lower section takes good small wires and cams.

Abata mo Ekubo - Warts and All 5.10c**** 17m
Wonderful slippery slab-climbing. High in the grade.
Small shiny holds (well, at least there are holds) lead to a double overlap. Pull over on no-holds and climb direct up the easing slab to a lower-off (originally the route went diagonally left to the tree in the flake). I've heard it said that you're not supposed to use the big sloper up and left of the overlap. It makes the route more sustained, but no harder technically.

Twist 5.10a*** 17m
More nice slab-climbing up the right edge of the slab.
Start at the foot of the arete right of Abata mo Ekubo and take a direct line to the same lower-off. The original start was to traverse in from Abata mo Ekubo at the overlap, or swing in from the gully on the right at a higher level (hence the extra bolt on the right). (The described start was originally claimed as a separate route: Ekkyousha - Border Jumper.)

Hyottoko Iwa - Gurner's Face

The steeper slab round to the right of the Main Slab.

From level with the top of Dumbo Iwa, continue up the slope right of the path to the Main Slab for about 50m. Hyottoko is a traditional clown with a weird puckered lips expression.

Suisho Slab - Hyottoko Iwa

Seishin Kante - Spiritual Arete 5.10a** 16m
The striking arete round to the right of the main slab. Good, but, unfortunately, not as good as it looks.
October 2016: No hanger on the 3rd bolt and the 4th bolt is half hanging out - avoid this route for a while!
Climb a short juggy face and make a hairy move up left onto the arete. Follow this on huge holds to a lower-off. Originally, the route continued to a higher anchor, which is still in place, and had a second pitch at 5.9 up the short slab behind it.

Doubt 5.11a** 20m
A pleasant route, which improves markedly after a contrived start. You can also start up On the Road.
Follow Seishin Kante to the dike, then step right and continue direct to a scoop below a white face. Stretch left for a small jug, then swing up and left to stand on it. Step up to clip and reach jugs leading to a junction with Seishin Kante.

On the Road 5.10b* 18m
A variation start to Seishin Kante (or Doubt). The star is because the climbing on Seishin Kante is good.
Start by a big cypress tree. Make a balancy step (or push off the tree!) to reach the first of 2 bolts either side of a diagonal crack. Pull into the crack and mantel a dike. Traverse this into Seishin Kante and finish up this.

Ame ni Tatararete - Beaten by the Rain 5.11a* 25m
Just about worthwhile climbing up a disjointed line. The bolts are poor quality.
Start a little further up the gully below a tree with tat on it (your first runner). Climb across a short steep face to the tree, then a couple of short crusty slabs to a recess below a juggy brown face. Pull onto this from the right and climb direct to a lower-off. The last move is now the crux since the demise of a crucial foothold.

Slick 5.12d 13m
The impressive face up and right of Ame ni Tatararete has two unclaimed, possibly unclimbed lines. The grade's a guess!
Climb the steep face on smooth holds to a lower-off.

Yane Ippou - Roof Rock One

Yane Ippou is divided into three sections: Lower, Junjou Iwa, and Upper.

For the lower section, follow the Panorama Course (anti-clockwise) from the car park for 10 minutes to a wooden viewing platform. The white streaks of the Bicycle Dike slab are visible through trees to the right. A small track leads around and right to the crag. Continue up the Panorama Course for another 5 minutes for the Junjou Iwa section. Straight up the hill for another 5 minutes for the upper section.

The Lower Section

Yane Ippou - Lower Area

Here's a rough map of the area:

Yane Ippou - Lower Area

Bicycle Dike 5.11d***** 18m
A superb route. Steel fingers required. You can protect the first clip with a Friend #3.
Step up onto the dike from the scratchy slab on the left. Pedal across this to a bolt and good holds. Move easily up, then crimp and smear fiercely to a lower-off by a dead tree.
The impressive bolted line between Bicycle Dike and Kawa has been a 'project' since 1990, which must make it fair game. The first bolt is missing.

Kawa - The River 5.11c**** 18m
Another excellent route based on the series of weaknesses in the face/slab 20m right of Bicycle Dike. A couple of medium Friends might make you feel better.
Use pockets and a semi-flake to reach a break - ignore the bolt on the right - then traverse left to a crack. Climb the crack till it ends then make a thin step right and smear up for good holds and the top. Ab/lower off.
The next 5 routes make increasingly desperate use of the slabs set up and right of the Bicycle Dike slab. There is no real path, so first follow the line of the foot of the rocks past Kawa, then cut straight up to the next level of slabs. This should bring you to the rib of Ippou Clutch.

Ippou Clutch - One-way Clutch 5.10a** 14m
The name is a pun that doesn't work in English. Pleasant climbing up the cracked rib. Take a rack. The first moves can be protected with a small wire and a microcam, but you might want to throw a sling around your friendly neighbourhood larch.
Stand on a detached spike and make an out-of-balance layback to reach the first good flake. Where this ends, step left round the rib to another flake. Where this ends, follow the slab easily to twin bolts. Lower-off.

Gokiburinizouka - Cockroach with Flowers 5.10a* 12m
Another pun that just doesn't work in English up the shorter, steeper crack to the right. Take a rack.
Approach the crack from the easy ramp. The short blank section in the middle provides the crux. At the top, pull up and left to the lower-off of Ippou Clutch. It would be better and harder if you couldn't reach the short blocky flake on the right.

Bireini Purizun - Villainy Prison 5.10d*** 18m
This climbs the slab about 50m right of Gokiburinizouka. Not really sure about the route name. Excellent slab-climbing using small pockets and smears. Much better than it looks!
Make hard moves to get established above the first bolt, then climb more easily to the last. Thin moves on crumbly holds lead up a scoop to a tree. No lower-off.

Colonel 5.10b 20m
The slab 10m right again. A serious lead. Start at the foot of the flake of Sarge. Take Friends 1-2½.
Pull up to the flake, then make tricky moves up and left past a shallow crack to a bolt and good holds full of pine needles. Pull onto the top slab and climb direct to a grotty flake. Fill this with crap Friends, then step right and smear up disintegrating, mossy rock to a tree. No lower-off.

Sarge 5.9 22m
Another serious lead. Start at the foot of the rightwards-leading flake 10m right of Bireini Purizun.
Climb the flake to its end (good gear). Pull over (Friend 0 on one cam, or run it out to the bolt). From the bolt, get your head down and climb direct up crunchy, mossy rock to a tree on a ledge. No lower-off.

Hanataba - The Bouquet 5.10c** 15m
The pretty little corner, a bushwhacking 50m up and right again. Take a rack.
Climb the corner.

Umayadono Ouji - Prince Umayadono 5.12b 15m
The steep crack further up and right, just after a "Get Orf Moi Laand!" sign. Take a rack.
Climb the crack and the face above.

Junjou Iwa - Pure Rock

Continue up the Panorama Course for another 5 minutes from the viewing platform, then cut back right off the main path up a clear path leading up to the rocks. The path arrives at the rock under the arete of Akujou. Routes are described from right to left, starting round to the right of Ayashii Yatsu, where two unreported routes tackle the face right of Harumageddon on crumbly brown rock.
There is also a short, very steep route slightly further right on this wall, and a bunch of grotty unreported routes lower down and right in a dank gully.

Bolts in the Belfry 5.10c* 13m
A steep line up the left edge of the dark wall.
Start right of a shattered flaky groove. Climb to a small overhang and pull up to a steep crack. Follow this to jugs leading to a short final wall and a lower-off.

Weetabix the Builder 5.10b* 13m
The ochre flaky rock right of the attractive face of Harumagedon.
Start below a shattered flaky groove. Pull up carefully on jugs to enter the groove. At the top of the groove swing left to the lower-off of Harumagedon.

Harumagedon - Armageddon 5.10c 12m
A rather odd route, climbing the disjointed cracks to the right of the attractive bolted face. The face remains unclimbed, or unclaimed, at least. Take a rack and ignore the bolts.
Start at a crack 4m right of an arete. Climb the cracks to a lower-off on the left.

Junjo Taihei no Kakatte Kinasai - Junjo Taihei's Get Up and Go 5.10c** 12m
The neat crack in the arete to the left of the bolted face.
Start on the right of the arete. Climb with increasing difficulty to a leaning finish and a badly placed lower-off over the back.

Akujou - Evil Woman 5.11c 10m
The left side of the arete of Junjo Tahei no Kakatte Kinasai.
Start by scrambling up to the terrace at about half height. Clip the third bolt of Junjo Taihei no Kakatte Kinasai, then climb the arete on its left to the top.

Ayashii Yatsu - Suspicious Character 5.12a* 8m
The steep, reachy arete round to the left.
Climb the arete after a fierce pull round the overhang. You can use the flake on the left for the fourth clip, but not for gaining height. So they say. You could also go and climb something better instead.

ZAP 5.10d** 16m
Basically a couple of variations on Sponta. Very artificial, but fun.
Start in a recessed little corner just left of Ayashii Yatsu. Bounce up and left out of the corner and climb diagonally left using horizontal breaks. From the third bolt, climb just right of the line of bolts. Finish up the arete on the right for your 10d tick.

Sponta 5.10b*** 15m
The pleasant face left of Ayashii Yatsu. Steep, but with good holds.
Start just left of the small corner. Climb direct to the first bolt, then follow the line of bolts left. Move up and back right to a ledge. Climb the top face just left of the bolts (crux).

Porokke 5.9** 12m
The discontinuous crack to the left of Sponta. Good, but not long enough. Friends 1-3 should do it.
Climb the undercut lower straight crack to a small tree, then climb the curving upper crack to the top and a lower-off.

The Upper Section

Continue up the Panorama course for another 5 minutes from the turning for Junjou Iwa. At the next junction, go right and up (left leads down to Nihou, etc.) Where the path veers left, go up and right to a steep face. Routes are described from left to right.

Cowbell 5.11c** 11m
The lefthand line on the steep wall set back from the Panorama Course. Take Friends 1-2.
Start just right of a tree. Unless it's been chopped. Pull over a bulge on the left and climb strenuously to a crack. Up this to a lower-off.

Gogatsu Hatsuka no Wedding Present - May the 20th Wedding Present 5.10d** 11m
The steadily widening crack 5m right (not the one with a bolt to get to it - that's unclaimed, and rightly so). Rack up.
Climb with increasing difficulty to a kink left. Pull up and rest on two good knobs. Finish on painful wide jams at a couple of small trees.

Anderakurosu 5.12a* 8m
The short steep line right again.
After a desperate start, make strenuous, technical moves to a lower-off. Dodgy tat.
The next routes are gained by scrambling down into a bay down and right of Anderakurosu. There are some fixed ropes in place, but they've been there a while.

Merudou - Meldow 5.11d** 15m
The slabby rib and steep face above. Strangely unpopular. Take some Friends.
Pull onto the rib from the left and climb it past a scary clip to where the face says "Oi!" Interesting climbing up the face to a lower-off.

Moulin Rouge 5.11c*** 17m
Good mixed climbing, but you might have some trouble getting past the in-situ dogger.
Start at a flake in the centre of the face. Climb the flake (Friend 2.5), then make a thin couple of moves left and go up to a dike. Step right and go boldly up to a lower-off.

Yahou Genki - Hey! How are you doing? 5.10b* 10m
The flakes and jugs in the arete right of Moulin Rouge - short, but very steep.
Pull up to the first flake then make a balancy layback and heave to a break. A surprisingly delicate step up gains a lower-off at a dike.

Country Road 5.11c*** 14m
The steep, bolted crack to the right of Yahou Genki.
Climb the crack to its end then climb rightwards to a tree. Sustained.

Unagi - The Eel 5.13b** 11m
The leaning, shallow groove to the right of Country Road.
Climb up to the groove and climb this by a series of dynamic moves that may or may not involve a lunge. Sustained. The first bolt is usually pre-clipped.

Chikara The Ooiwa - Ooiwa Power 5.12c*** 10m
The very steep undercling and layback up and right of Country Road.
Pull up to the bulge and layback round and up to a lower-off. Gorillas only.

Onigiri Iwa - Riceball Rock

The clutch of smaller crags sandwiched between Yane Nihou and Omusubiyama Slab. There are some very good routes down here, but none is done with any regularity.

Approach as for Omusubiyama Slab, but 10 or 15 metres before the rock with yellow and red text, cut left (uphill) into the woods. The rocks are only 15 to 20 metres from the path, but well hidden by the trees. The slab and curving flake of Shake Flake is on the right. For the other routes, horseshoe up, left and down. It takes about 25 minutes whether you follow the Panaorama Course clockwise or anti-clockwise.

Shake Flake - Salmon Flake 5.10c** 20m
A stiff start leads to pleasant climbing up the flake and slab. Becoming a little scruffy due to a lack of traffic.
Start up on the right. Reach up to a good finger jug and make a hard traverse across the slab to the curving flake. Pull up onto the flake, then smear neatly to a tree a couple of metres below the doss of Omusubiyama Slab. 5.10b in the Japanese guides, but the loss of a small foothold near the start seems to have made it harder.

Suupaa Onigiri - Superriceball 5.11c 21m
The rightmost line round the corner from Shake Flake. A hard start and not much else.
Desperate moves up the short hanging runnel lead to a pull onto the top slab. Finish as for Shake Flake or Shio Konbu.

Shio Konbu - Salty Seaweed 5.11a** 20m
Sustained, varied and good.
Start just left of Suupaa Onigiri at a short thin crack and flake. Good technical moves lead to a good break. Mantel onto this, then make a tricky pull onto the slab above. After a scary smear and clip, the angle starts to give. Mantel onto a good hold on the right and smear pleasantly to the pine at the bottom of Omusubiyama Slab. 10c if you use the hole right of the flake.

Itabashi Ondo = Itabashi March 5.7* 16m
The uninviting cleft left of Shio Konbu.
Thrash away up the wide crack till it relents and becomes an easy slab. Continue to the tree of Shio Konbu.

Pride One 5.10c** 12m
The centre of the short face set 30m up the gully from Shio Konbu.
After a tricky reach to make the first clip, heave up to below the left edge of a face. Using a flake, bounce up the steep bit to the centre of the slab. Make a stiff pull to where the angle relents, then climb easily to a stonking tree. No lower-off.

China Syndrome 5.11b*** 20m
The attractive (bolted) thin crack in the slender buttress to the left of Pride One. Nice climbing, but unfortunately escapable.
Pull onto the front of the buttress from the right. If this is wet, you can climb up the groove below the crack. Follow the crack to where it ends, then make a tasty smear up and right to a dike. Balance up slanting crack on the left, then pull right onto a crumbly slab. Pad easily over the back to a lower-off on a tree.

Kobito Crack - Dwarf Crack 5.10a** 23m
A worthwhile crack climb. Take a set of Friends up to #4 and some small wires.
Start down and left of China Syndrome, at the base of a big fallen tree, still alive in 2016. Pull out left onto a scruffy rib, clip a bolt and move left round the rib to the base of a slab. Climb the crack in the right edge of the slab till it ends at a faint dike. Mantel and pull right into a wider crack line. Follow this past a tree to a lower-off.

Daimajin - The Sorcerer 5.11c*** 25m
An excellent route off the beaten track that should improve since recent (2008) storms blew down some of the trees that were hemming it in.
Start as for Kobito Crack. Pull out left onto the scruffy rib and move round to the base of the slab. Technical moves diagonally leftwards lead to a fierce pull back right onto a tiny dike from which another tricky move up and left gains a niche. Pull right out of this and go up to the lower-off of Kobito Crack.

Koropokkuru - The Little Folk 5.11d* 23m
The attractive slab left of the chimney is not as good as it looks, but might clean up with the demise of nearby cypresses.
Start 8m round to the left of Daimajin and just right of a choked corner. Climb direct on scratchy rock to reach an obvious small white flake (if it's still there - it's a bit fragile, to say the least). Make a hard move up and right into the chimney, then pull across onto the slab on the right and move up to the niche of Daimajin and finish up this. The crux is getting to and from the white flake.

Hyaku Paasento Furyou Shoujou - 100% Bad Girl 5.11a* 22m
A once cracking, varied pitch, but the corner is now very chossy and it is never climbed. Take a rack.
Start 8m left of Koropokkuru at an obvious capped corner. This is only a few metres above the Panorama Course, but difficult to see. Climb the corner to an undercling traverse left, then power up the arete to a lower-off.

Omusubiyama Slab - Riceball Slab

The slightly pyramid-shaped rock to the right of Yane Nihou. All of the routes are excellent slab climbs and, with one exception, low in their grade. A good spot for a relaxed day and a picnic. It used to get very crowded, but hasn't been too bad recently.
Almost all of the RCC and ring bolts were replaced with real bolts late in 2003.

Approach as for Yane Iwa rocks, but between the cairn for Yane Nihou and the col for Yane Ippou (from where you can get a good view of the slab) take a left just after a big boulder with writing in Japanese in red and yellow (it says 'Climbers only beyond this point'!) Follow this narrower path past a small slab on the left (old 10a-ish bolt ladder) to the foot of the main slab. Most routes start on the terrace up and left - and it's a lovely place to doss. It takes about 30 minutes whether you follow the Panaorama Course clockwise or anti-clockwise.

Omusubiyama Slab

Maystorm 5.10c*** 25m
A lovely climb up the slender rib and slab on the left edge of the crag. Low in the grade.
Start down and left from the main part of the terrace on a ledge formed by a marvellous welcoming pine - belay advised! Make a couple of thin moves to gain the rib proper and follow this slightly rightwards. Make a tricky move past a flake (crux) then follow the left edge of the main slab to a sparkling chain. Purists will continue for 6m to a lower-off on a slim cedar (the original finish).

Mumei Route - Nameless 5.10a*** 15m
The leftmost line on the front of the slab. The start has been chipped, but it doesn't seem to have got any easier.
The start is still the crux, despite the chipping. Lurch onto a high foothold and balance up to a huge jug. Step left, then climb direct and then slightly rightwards to a lower-off. The central section has some great holds.

Remembrance 5.10c*** 15m
Also low in the grade, with the crux at the bottom, also chipped, though I can't see where. The start seems to have got harder, if anything, but it's worth persevering.
Desperate moves past the first bolt gain a decent foothold. Step left and up onto the slab proper, then climb up and slightly right past a good pocket to a slim rib. Follow this more easily to the same lower-off as Mumei Route. It is possible to avoid the start using a flake on the right, but then you can't have a 10c tick.

Lavender 5.10b*** 17m
Supposedly the easiest route hereabouts, the start is a real frightener.
Climb right of Remembrance on glassy holds past a low bolt. After a nasty mantel above this, a couple of less harrowing mantels lead to a scratchy traverse below a dike to the lower-off of Remembrance. You can also climb a pleasant second pitch to the top (10m, take medium Friends).

Jacob's Ladder 5.10d**** 25m
Lovely climbing, sustained lower down.
Start right of Lavender, on the tree roots. Climb slightly right and up to pockets and a weakness in the dike. Mantel, then make thin moves to reach a mantel on the next dike. Good climbing in an almost direct line leads to a third dike and lower-off. You can also continue in the same line to the top (a dirty 10m).

Honyaragokko 5.10c*** 30m
A nice long pitch, but a bit uneven. Take Friends 1.5 and 2.5.
Start as for Jacob's Ladder. Traverse out right past a perfect Friend 1.5 slot to a small flake and bolt. Climb direct past a couple of dikes to a short crack. Continue up this and the slab above to a dike and lower-off. Ab/lower-off (OK on a 50m rope), or climb a second pitch up the crack and slab above (10m).

Pipeline 5.11a**** 25m
The hardest route on the slab - don't believe the Japanese guides (they give it 5.10d). Sustained slab climbing with some slippery holds. Take a Friend 3.
Start down and right from Honyaragokko, at the far-right edge of the slab. Use intermittent flakes to pull up to a bolt, then climb more easily past another bolt to a short flake (good Friend 3). Make a thin pull left into a scoop. A hard pull right out of this on tiny holds gains a dike, which offers a rest before sustained climbing up a watercourse to a dike and lower-off. Ab/lower-off.

Shiizun Ofu - Off Season 5.10c** 18m
Slightly out of character with its scruffiness and steep crack, but still good. Take Friends 1-3.
Start well up and right of Pipeline at a slightly overhanging crack (follow the edge of the slab up from Pipeline, pull over a boulder by a fixed rope, go up to the head of the gully and step left to a twee little bay below the crack). Climb the crack to its end, then make a hard pull out left using a shallow pocket. Mantel to a lower-off. The route originally continued up the slab on crusty holds to a tree and lower-off, but that's now filthy and the bolt protecting it is less than inspiring.

Jantaku Slab - Mahjong Table Slab

In fact the northwest face of Yane Nihou, in practice an upper tier to Omusubiyama Slab. Out of the way and rarely crowded.

Either climb a route to the top of Omusubiyama Slab, or get lost following a line of trees round its back (on the right). If you do this right, it takes about 10 minutes and you end up cutting across the top of Omusubiyama Slab (so be careful) then scrambling down by a very big, very dead tree. When you leave, you can ab down Pride One from the foot of Kokushimusou, then drop down quickly and easily to the Panorama course.
Routes are described from left to right, starting with the big dirty corner of Titan Chimney.

Titan Chimney 5.9 18m
The obvious filthy chimney. Take a rack, vacuum cleaner and bucket and spade.
Follow the chimney to a lower-off on the left. The rock is almost clean for the last few metres.

Takara Sagashi - Treasure Hunting 5.11a** 18m
Nice enough steep slab-climbing.
Start just left of Kokushimusou. Climb straight up to the good pocket of Kokushimusou, then traverse left to the lower-off of Titan Chimney. The bolts are quite spaced.

Kokushimusou 5.11c**** 40m
The shallow groove to the right of Takara Sagashi. Technical, sustained and fingery - top stuff! ("Kokushimusou" is a hand in mahjong somewhat equivalent to a straight flush in poker) (apparently).
Start below the groove. Follow the groove by good moves till it is possible to stand in a good pocket. Many people go left here to the lower-off at the top of Titan Chimney. This way you can lower off on one rope. But hey, that's convenience climbing! Follow the bolts up and right to an anchor.

Kunoichi 5.11d*** 24m
Start a short way up the gully to the right. Balanced and balancy.
Climb the slab left again a grotty lower-off. Word is, you can use the arete, but you can't step round it.

Koninja - Ninja Child 5.12b* 23m
The next line up the gully. A desperate start and pleasant finish.
Make baffling moves to where the angle eases, then climb more easily to the same lower-off as Kunoichi.

Heiwa Face - Peace Face 5.9** 15m
The rightmost line on the slab. A very pleasant climb, but the first bolt needs replacing, and the route could do with a lower-off.
Start 15m up the gully, by a tree. (If you don't like the look of the first bolt, I recommend a sling high in this tree.) Pull steeply up and foot-traverse left to gain the first bolt, which looks more out than in. Continue direct by a sustained sequence till the angle gives out after the last bolt. Continue in the same line to a dike, then traverse left to belay at a tree. No lower-off and no easy way down. Either jigger a way down into the gully from which the climb starts, or walk off a long way right (facing in - follow the old steel cable above the route) till it is possible to drop down onto the approach path.

Yane Nihou - Roof Rock Two

Take the Kamoshika Course towards Karasawa waterfall and turn right at the big boulder (Bunki Iwa) onto the Panorama Course. Follow the path for 200m and turn left at the second prominent cairn (the first is the path for Yane Sanpou). Follow this narrower, steeper path past a rock step to the crag. It should take about 20 minutes. You can also approach by coming down the Panorama course from Yane Ippou.

However, one route starts down near the Panorama Course: Follow the Course past the cairn for Nihou for about 30 metres till a series of low broken buttresses runs down the slope on the left. Walk past the lowest point of this ridge then cut in on the left to the base of an easy-angled slab on the left.

Nanryou - South Ridge 5.11a* 60m
A poor route that makes the most of what rock there is. Pitches 2, 6 and 7 are the most worthwhile. The top pitch is way out of character with the rest and can easily be omitted (as can the whole route, in fact).
Pitch 1. 5.6 Climb the centre of the slab past a single bolt to belay in trees on the right.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Step onto the slab on the right and climb this pleasantly past a tricky move at the third bolt to its top.
Pitch 3. 5.4 Bumble up the jumbled slabs to the foot of the next piece of rock of consequence (with a flake at the right edge of a slab).
Pitch 4. 5.8 Climb the flake and pull left onto the slab. Up the slab to a tree on the left.
Pitch 5. 5.10a Drop down to the left (facing in) to a gully. Descend this for a few metres to a short face on the right. This is the face with P.T.A. Climb the right edge of the face past a good flake to a dirty slab. Up this to belay on a well-treed terrace.
Pitch 6. 5.10a Climb the steep face in front of you, crux at the bottom, to another spacious ledge.
Pitch 7. 5.11a Step up behind the belay and make a stiff traverse right to a jug and a crack slanting back left. Easier moves lead to a tree belay.
Climb down the gully behind the belay then descend the bigger gully to the left (facing out) of the top pitch. There is one tricky section near the top.

The P.T.A. Slab

The short slab (and steep face above) tucked away round to the right of the main section. The rightmost line on both the slab and face is the upper section of Nanryou.

Yane Nihou - Right

Kore ga Jack no Kekkon Kinen Route dewa Anmari deshouka - Do You Think it is Sad if this is Jack's Wedding Anniversary Route? 5.10c 8m
The ridiculously short leftmost line on the slab has the dubious distinction of being shorter than its name.
Climb the deceptively tricky slab past 2 bolts to a lower-off in a tree. A poor route.

Hoshi to Hikari - Stars and Light 5.12a*** 11m
The slab right again features some fierce moves on dots and smears. Not much to look at, but very worthwhile.
Start just right of a decent smear at waist height. Make the most of it, because there's not much else besides till above the third bolt. Lower off as for Kore ga Jack...

P.T.A. 5.11b**** 11m
The short shallow crack. An excellent route that really gets you involved. The bottom three bolts were renewed in 2008.
Climb the crack till it ends then make thin moves to stand on a sloping, but decent foothold under an overlap. A scary smear for a flake gains a ring bolt, from which a couple of neat pulls lead to a terrace and lower-off.

D.D.T. 5.10d** 13m
The face right of P.T.A.
Tricky starting moves lead to an easy slab. Pull up and mantel onto a big break/small ledge, depending on the mood you're in. Step up and left then finish direct. Lower off.

Andaa Andaa - Under Under 5.11b* 25m
The steep and unfortunately dirty crackline up and left of P.T.A. is never climbed. Take a rack.
Gain the terrace above P.T.A. from the gully on the left. Climb a flake and move slightly right to an undercling. Follow this to a crack, then pull out left past a bolt to reach a corner. Up this to a ledge. Ab/lower off.

The Main Section

The big impressive face unfortunately doesn't have many top-to-bottom routes. Still, superb rock and situations abound. The routes are first described from ground level from right to left.

Yane Nihou - Lower

Kogure Dai Saakasu - The Great Kogure Circus 5.10c** 16m
A very enjoyable pitch.
Scramble up the corner left of the P.T.A. slab to step out left onto a terrace with a two-bolt belay. Climb the steep face just left of the arete on good holds to a swing left and mantel. Step up into a scoop where the angle eases off. Make crux moves to reach an obvious flake hold and pull up to where the slab falls asleep. Pad up to a lower-off.

Diamond Slab 5.8*** 27m
A pleasant slab pitch - once the lowly first pitch of Selection, but now proclaimed as a route in its own right. Take medium Friends if you do the crack start.
Start round to the right of the main face at a short crack. Climb this to a possible belay, then follow the righthand line up the slab to a chain. The bolts were renewed and repositioned in 2002, making for longer runouts between decent protection. It is possible to start and finish as for Dark Crystal. Two abs to get down, unless you came with a 60m rope.

Selection 5.8**** 100m
An excellent long route that juggles slabs and cracks and finishes in a great position. On the upper pitches, be careful not to knock anything down.
Pitch 1. 5.8 The crack start of Diamond Slab. Belay on bolts at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2. 5.8 The slab section of Diamond Slab. If there are more than 2 in your party, you might want to tie someone to the twin trees on a narrow ledge right of the chain.
Pitch 3. 5.5 Gain the ledge on the right, if you haven't already, and from its right edge, traverse a tree root into a chimney. Back-and-foot the easy chimney (behind the chockstone) to good ledges and scramble up to an excellent picnic spot on the col.
Pitch 4. 5.8 Above the ledges, a short slab protected by two bolts leads to a bottomless corner/flake. Gain the bolts from the short corner and wide crack below and right or the tree below and left (the tree's more fun), then smear up to the corner/flake. Climb this on generally good holds and gear to belay in a good position on small trees and gear on narrow ledges at the top of the flake. If your party is nervous and/or numerous, it might be better to keep going - as long as the drag is manageable.
Pitch 5. 5.7 Follow the ledges up and left to an overlap, then pull back right across a slab to a corner. Up this to belay on a big tree in a recess. It is possible to escape to the top through here. But you don't want to do that.
Pitch 6. 5.7 Drop down to real rock again, then traverse airily left to belay in a wonderful position at the foot of a big Y-shaped crack.
Pitch 7. 5.8 Climb the crack via its left fork to the top. The right fork is easier but thrutchier.
Descend by walking left (facing in) to a narrow gully with a steel cable running down it. Descend this carefully using the cable as a hand rail till the cable then gully run out. Scramble left (facing in) and down across a wooded hillside (there's one nasty step across between a couple of trees, but you can easily protect this if anybody in the party doesn't fancy it) to drop down onto a path at the start of Jet Stream. Follow this path left (facing out) under Yane Nihou's main face back to the bottom of the route. Be careful, because, if you miss the path that cuts in, you'll end up back down on the Kamoshika Hiking Course (eventually).
Alternatively, you can ab down the front of Yane Nihou, which I don't recommend unless you know where you're going.
Or, if you don't need to get to the bottom of Yane Nihou, you can follow a path right (facing in) off the top and back down a gully to the Panorama Hiking Course between Yane Ippou and Omusubiyama Slab. The same cable that runs left off the top also runs right along this path and down the gully (the path is very narrow for one short section, but keep the faith!) The gully itself requires a short downclimb.

Aburamushi - The Cockroach 5.12b** 10m
The innocuous rib between the starts of Diamond Slab and Dark Crystal is a lot harder than it looks.
Climb the rib direct to a lower-off by some desperate moves. This was the original (aided) start to Diamond Slab.

Chawanmushi - Egg Custard 5.11a* 8m
The savoury sort. The short flake-line left of Aburamushi.
A neat layback start is followed by a worrying steep layback where the flakes run out. Step up to a lower-off. These moves may not be so worrying since an extra bolt appeared near the top.

Dark Crystal 5.9**** 27m
Very pleasant slab-climbing that nevertheless requires a degree of caution.
Start on the right edge of the terrace running down from the left. Step up carefully, then pull steeply into a notch (good Friend #2). Climb straight up past a hollow flake (possible poor Friends) to the broad slab and follow a line up the centre of this to finish up a water chute and belay under Kumo no Ito. Two abs to get down, unless you came with a 60m rope.

Curry Syndrome 5.10d** 11m
The short steep face just left of Dark Crystal. Good fun.
Start at a couple of small pockets at chest height. Long reaches between good holds lead dynamically to a short slab. Skitter up this to a krabless lower-off (or continue up Oorora Nigou).

Oorora Nigou - Aurora II 5.11a** 28m
Good open climbing after an indifferent start. Start up Curry Syndrome for a better route all round.
Climb the broken line of flakes left of Curry Syndrome steeply to a slab. Climb this to the lower-off of Curry Syndrome, but keep going to the right edge of the overhang above. Crux moves through this at a disconcertingly rattly bolt lead to a lovely top slab. Finish at the lower-off of Dark Crystal - two abs to get down, unless you came with a 60m rope. (The Kitayama topo shows an anchor for this route at 25m - there isn't one.)

Kabutomushi - The Stag Beetle 5.12a*** 15m
A popular route up a prominent line.
Start about 20m up and left of Dark Crystal. Climb out right to a slender arete. Pull left over a small hang and continue up the slim face above on insecure holds. Pull onto a slab and go easily to a lower-off.

Chiki Chiki Ban Ban - Chitty Chitty Bang Bang 5.11b*** 15m
Another popular route, requiring a variety of techniques and boasting an excellent photo platform. Said to have been chipped since I was on it, so it might be easier.
Start up and left of Kabutomushi. Climb direct to the left side of a prominent isolated bulge. Pull right to the bulge and undercling round it. Follow the obvious traverse line right till it ends, then pull up to join Kabutomushi. Follow this to the lower-off.

Katatsumuri - The Snail 5.12c**** 15m
An excellent route - a good line, great moves, and a tad exciting. Take some large Friends and small to medium wires.
Start up and left of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban. Climb steeply up to gain the obvious flake. Power up this to where it becomes a crack and then fades. Pull out past a bolt on the right and go up to a lower-off.

The Upper Section

Yane Nihou - Upper

Tentoumushi - The Ladybird 5.11d*** 15m
Another powerful line.
Start up and left of Katatsumuri, at the next obvious flake. Follow the flake to its end. Step left, up, and back right to get the lower-off. The original climbed direct to the lower-off from the last bolt at 12a.

Jet Stream 5.10b***** 50m
Good climbing in an increasingly airy situation across the big dike. There's no seconding on this route! Start where the big upper dike meets a vegetated chimney way up and left. Belay on the best tree you can find.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Step across a chimney to gain the dike and hand-traverse past one tricky move till it is possible to stand on the dike. Continue traversing to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10b Tell your mate you'll lead this pitch. Take Friends 1 and 1.5 for the final crack. Step up onto the dike and foot-traverse across, down, across and up to an anchor next to a tree.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance at the top of Kumo no Ito, then ab to the stance at its bottom. Traverse left to the top of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban and ab again, or ab to the terrace above the crack on the first pitch of Selection and ab again.

Yousorou 5.11a** 25m
Good climbing in an airy situation, but the long descent spoils the fun somewhat.
Climb Jet Stream for about 10m then mantel onto the dike. Hard moves off the dike lead to pleasant slab climbing in a good position. Finish at a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

Gypsy 5.9** 17m
More pleasant, exposed slab-climbing, but the long approach and descent detract.
Start from the stance on Jet Stream. Move left and climb a kind of crack and the slab above to a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

Mizusumashi - The Whirligig 5.8* 16m
More pleasant, exposed and hard-to-get-to slab-climbing.
Start from the stance on Jet Stream. Climb the runnel and slab above to a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

The following routes start on or level with the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of Selection. Also described from right to left.

Kumo no Jinjuurou - Jinjuurou the Spider 5.12c** 40m
The righthand line up the steep face right of Kumo no Ito. Rarely climbed.
Start from the right edge of the ledge. Climb the face by piecing together a vague series of cracks and flakes to a tree, if you feel like it.

Otegara Bruce-san - Well Done, Bruce 5.12c* 20m
The lefthand line.
Start from the left edge of the ledge. Climb the face almost direct to a lower-off. Crux at the fourth bolt.

Kumo no Ito - Spider's Thread 5.11b***** 20m
A line to die for. Excellent climbing in a superb situation. You'll appreciate it even more when you see the line from a distance. Take a rack.
Start from the belay at the top of Dark Crystal. Climb the easy corner behind the belay. At its top, traverse left past a couple of bolts to the foot of the crack and climb on good locks to a thin move off the second dike (crux, and, occasionally, peg). Continue up easier cracks to a tree belay. The word is, you're not allowed to touch the crack on the left AT ALL.
To get down, ab/lower off back to the start then, if you're using a single 50m rope, traverse left to the top of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban and ab, or ab to the terrace above the crack on the first pitch of Selection and ab again.

Kareki wo Otoshita Yo! - Ooops! Timber! 5.11a** 20m
The wider crack to the left of Kumo no Ito. Take a rack and go heavy on the bigs. Worth an extra star if gardened.
Start from the belay at the top of Dark Crystal. Climb the easy corner behind the belay, traverse left in to Kumo no Ito, then step left to the crack. Climb this to a tree belay. (Before Kumo no Ito became a route in its own right, this route climbed the easiest line using both cracks.)
Descend as for Kumo no Ito.

Koganemushi - The Gold Beetle 5.12b*** 20m
The short corners and steep face above the lower-off of Kabutomushi.
Start from the belay at the top of Kabutomushi. Climb a short left-facing corner, then traverse left and climb a short right-facing corner. Climb the face above, then step right and climb direct till level with a lower-off on the right. Traverse to this to finish. Lower off, or climb one of the following two routes - might as well - you'll probably never be here again.

Abracadabra 5.11a*** 30m
Good climbing on small pockets in a way out there situation.
Start from the belay at the top of Koganemushi. Climb the lefthand line direct to the dike of Jet Stream.
Not sure where you finish or how to get off. Looks like you might just run it out to the traverse of Selection.

Prism 5.10d** 30m
Similar to Abracadabra, but not quite as good. Is what I heard.
Start from the belay at the top of Koganemushi. Climb the righthand line direct to the dike of Jet Stream.
Not sure where you finish or how to get off. Looks like you might just run it out to the traverse of Selection.

Soramame Slab - Broad Bean Slab

The broad slab and surrounding rocks in the gully that separates Yane Nihou and Yane Sanpou. The routes are described in three sections: The Lower Slab, Soramame Slab itself, and Outlying Crags. The area offers a good mix of steep and slabby routes. The Lower Slab and Soramame Slab itself are currently very popular.
The Lower Slab is now very open due to the demise of some adjacent trees.

Approach as for Yane Nihou, but take the path at the first cairn on the left (for Yane Sanpou etc. - about 100m along, and before a sharp zig-zag in the path). This leads in five minutes to a fork in the path. Take the right fork and contour right into a dry stream bed. Up this to the Lower Slab, clearly marked by a tree-fall. It should take about 20 minutes to here. The main area is just above this and the outlying crags are dotted around the hillside left and up from here. You can also get here by following a path off to the left just after the rock step on the path to Yane Nihou, or by dropping down from the base of Yane Nihou.
Here's an extra map to add to your confusion:

Soramame Area

Soramame Area Map

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)
1 Yane Gohou
2 Yane Yonhou
3 Yane Sanpou
4 Yane Nihou
5 P.T.A. Slab
6 Nanryou
7 Hidon Danna Iwa
8 Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki
9 Okusan Slab
10 Soramame Slab
11 Danna Iwa III
12 Danna Iwa II
13 Soramame Kabu Slab
14 Colombia Mame Boulder


Kabu Slab - The Lower Slab

10m right of the Lower Slab itself, Johnny Desperate saw new route glory where you or I might have seen a grotty narrow low-angled slab split by a tree-choked crack. The results are the following two routes (graded for tree-free ascents):

Wild Tajan 5.10c* 12m
The righthand line. Some crunchy rock. The start has lost holds and become harder, possibly 10d now.
Step onto a fragile hold at the base of the right leg of the slab. Smear and crimp hard to the first decent hold and mantel. Easier climbing leads to a steeper, crumblier section, where a tricky high step using a shallow slot gains the top of the slab. Ab or lower off the cedar overhanging the route - but check you're happy with those saw scars first!

Mild Tajan 5.8 12m
The lefthand line of the slab. Pointless, but not altogether unpleasant.
Climb out of a shallow corner and step left to the base of the slab. Make easy moves up till the trees on the left force you diagonally right to the tree at the top of Wild Tajan.

On the Lower Slab:

Amashoku - Sugarcone 5.10a** 18m
The right arete of the Lower Slab. Low in the grade and nice enough. Amashoku is a cone-shaped sweet.
Start at the lowest part of the arete. Pull up onto the arete on suspect holds and climb easily to an overhang. Turn this using a good hold on the right, then step left and smear up to a lower-off. You can also turn the hang on the left (10b).

Slab no Gyakushuu - The Return of the Slab 5.11c**** 15m
The central and original line of the slab. Excellent technical moves. If you can onsight this, you're in the wrong skin.
Delicate moves lead to an obvious flakehold in the dike. Somehow stand on the dike, pull up to a break, then pull into the scoop on the right using a good flake and pad up to a lower-off. Downgraded to 11b in the updated Kitayama guide, but I still think it's 11c.

Sanshoku Sumire - The Pansy 5.10a** 14m
The next line to the left has some big booming flakes at the top.
Climb the slab just left of Slab no Gyakushuu via a long reach to an overlap. Too far left and you're using holds on Namaki ga Taoreta yo. Pull up to a hollow flake and then make a tricky smear up and left to a lower-off.

Namaki ga Taoreta yo - Timber! 5.9** 10m
A similar but slightly easier line to the left. Not particularly good. And not particularly bad, either.
The fallen tree from which this started has been tidied up. Start from the clean white patch on the rock that remains. Climb the slab direct on big holds and booming flakes to the lower-off of Sanshoku Sumire. The crux is a high step right above the second flake.

Kanrekiddo - 60 Years Young 5.7* 9m
The leftmost line of the slab is a rather desperate addition. Nice lower-off, though.
Pull over a bulge on big fragile holds and continue past more of the same to a crunchy slab. Smear easily to a lower-off.

Soramame Slab

Soramame Slab - Main

Ura no Jet Stream - Backdoor Jet Stream 5.11b** 20m
A strenuous jug-puller up the slim bounding wall of the slab. The rock's a bit dirty and the finish is an anti-climax - otherwise, very good.
Start under an overhang at the lefthand end of the crag. Pull over via some pretty sexy moves and a glued on hold, then pull round the arete to the left and follow the slanting wall to a tree/bolt lower-off. If you decide to fall off, watch how you swing. Someone will have to follow to get the gear. I've seen leaders lowering off to get their gear, but it looks like major hassle for leader and belayer alike.

Soramame Hang Super - Super Broad Bean Hang 5.11d* 16m
Difficult moves through the big overhang.
Start under the center of the big overhang. Pull up steeply to the roof, then power over to the left of the obvious block. Continue up the face above to a lower-off.

Soramame Hang - Broad Bean Hang 5.10c*** 16m
A good steep route. A soft touch for the strong.
Start under the righthand end of the big overhang. Pull round at a rather temporary-looking block and continue on good holds to a lower-off.

Long Long Ago 5.10b*** 35m
A cracking route, worth a cup of tea in anyone's cafe.
Climb the steep face just right of a small arete. Step left across a crack, pull up (crux), then climb the long slab more or less direct to a lower-off in a tree.
A stretchy 60m rope might just get you down, otherwise, lower off or ab to the stance of Soramame Hang, then ab to the bottom.

D-suke no Bouken - D-suke's Adventure 5.12b* 25m
A very hard start and a saunter. If you can do the start, you probably don't need to worry about runners in the top crack. Take some big Friends if you're not sure - it is, after all, your life.
Start where the path runs up to the right to Soramame. Climb straight up the wall with difficulty to gain a standing position in a break. Wazz up the easy crack in the slab to a lower-off.

Kaettekita Tajan - Tajan's Back 5.11b*** 20m
Good slab-climbing with a very intricate crux sequence. If you find any skin up there, it's mine!
Start just at the top of the path onto the top of the Lower Slab, between a couple of sawn off trees. Make a long reach for a jug, then heave up to the foot of the slab. Mantel onto a dike, then make thin moves up to finish slightly right at a lower-off.

Done a Runner 5.10c* 20m
This climbed a line of ring and RCC bolts between Kaettekita Tajan and Soramame. The hardware was stripped around 2007.
Start up either Kaettekita Tajan or Soramame, then traverse to the first shiny bolt. Continue direct to the lower-off of Kaettekita Tajan. The crux is avoiding holds in Soramame.

Soramame - Broad Bean 5.9**** 20m
Superb slab-climbing after a polished start. Sustained and high in the grade!
Start up and right, on top of the Lower Slab. Pull up steeply into a shallow corner, then step left onto the slab as soon as possible. Follow the slab as it becomes a rib to a point-of-no-return smear. Keep going for better holds and a lower-off on the left.

Yawaraka Soramame - Not So Broad Bean 5.8* 10m
The furthest route right on the main slab.
Start up and right, on top of the Lower Slab. Pull onto the wall on good holds and continue up the slab above past one tricky smear to a lower-off hanging out of a tree or two.

Corner Number Zero 5.10a* 14m
The furthest route right, past a nondescript steep wall with a couple of bolts. It was possible get here by dropping down and right from Yawaraka Soramame, but the dodgy log bridge has disintegrated, requiring a nasty traverse across a dirty slab. It is safer and better to skirt the Lower Slab right of Amashoku till you hit a corner slanting left. Take a set of Friends.
Climb into the lower corner from the bolted arete on the right. Gain the base of the top corner by a balancy move above dodgy gear (Friends 0 and 0.5), then continue more easily to a lower-off (unconnected chains). Crumbly in places and slow to dry.

Outlying Crags

Endorphin 5.13c** 8m
The righthand line on the roof of the boulder (called Danna Iwa II - Husband Rock II) just left and slightly down from the main area. Technical and very strenuous. It's also said to be good. Not that I'd know.
Follow the bolts, crux between the third and fourth.

Synapse 5.12c** 7m
The lefthand line on the roof of the boulder just left and slightly down from the main area.
Follow the bolts, with a lunge or two.

Slightly down and left of Danna Iwa II is Danna Iwa III, which has two crumbly routes.

Kusamizo Chokujou Route - Kusamizo Direct 5.10d** 10m
The left edge of the face. Crap rock but nice moves.
Follow crumbly flakes (possible Friends) to a long reach for a flat hold. Pull up to a crack right of the arete. Use this and a pocket to reach a jug on the arete. Mantel to a lower-off.

Kusamizo Migi Route - Kusamizo Right 5.8 10m
The disintegrating face just right of Kusamizo Chokujou Route. Appalling rock, totally unjustifiable. Take a rack if you decide to bother.
Climb past a bolt to discontinuous, dirty cracks. Follow these to the top and a lower-off. Now try and convince yourself it was worth it.

Down and left again is Colombia Mame Boulder (Colombia Bean Boulder), which has two top-rope problems and a "project".

The Horse 5.11b** 15m
The righthand problem.
Start at the lefthand end of the boulder. Climb straight up then right and back left.

Before Midnight 5.11a* 8m
The lefthand problem.
Start as for The Horse at the lefthand end of the boulder. Climb straight up then left and back right.

Just up from Danna Iwa II and above left of Soramame Slab is Okusan Slab - Wife Slab.

Tsurukame Slab - Crane and Turtle Slab 5.8** 10m
The left edge of the attractive slab.
Follow the oddly spaced bolts up the left of the slab, crux at the start. Finish at a lower-off just below the top of the slab. Note that there is a lot of loose rock above this slab.

Hatarake! Rock Climber - Work, Climber! 5.12b*** 9m
Up and left of Okusan Slab is Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki - Husband Rock Main Wall. Indeed. This consists of a short corner between two overhanging faces.
Climb the centre of the right wall of the corner. If you're strong, it's fun! The araldite just adds to the experience.

Kuuberutan no Gyakushuu - The Return of Coubertin 5.10c** 9m
The bolted corner with a good crack.
Climb the steep corner. The difficulties relent with the angle.

Buppou Slab - Buddhist Slab 5.11b*** 15m
The path up and left of the foot of Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki leads to an attractive slab left of a grim crevice. This is Hidon Danna Iwa - Hidden Husband Rock.
The slab is pleasant, with one hard move, which the devious can avoid. Start just left of a dirty, crumbly flake. Make technical moves on small holds to gain a standing position on a prominent sharp white hold. Make a long reach for a good hold up and left. Pull up and climb the slab easily to a lower-off on the arete. The good hold may be full of pine needles.

Unknown 5.10b** 14m
The lefthand line of the slab.
Start behind a big tree left of Buppou Slab. Udge up to a small flake and use this to make a long reach for a good hold. Mantel then climb the easier top slab in "go anywhere" mode. Finish at a tree (with poor lower-off) over the back. Worth doing, but getting mossy.

Onna Yonde. Fugi - A Little Bit on the Side 5.11c* 13m
The lefthand line of the steep wall. Both routes on this wall suffer from an excess of shade and a lack of traffic. Ignore the fixed rope! Approach from the slab on the right.
Start up the gully round to the right of Buppou slab. Climb the wall just in from the arete to the third bulge. Pull over and resist the temptation and obvious holds just right by finishing up the arete. Lower off.

Bunbunbun 5.11d* 12m
The righthand line of the steep wall. Fingery.
Follow the bolts to the lower-off. The first is usually stick-clipped - but you don't need that.

Yane Sanpou - Roof Rock Three

The narrower peak to the left of Nihou, mostly hidden in forest when seen from the campsite. There aren't many routes, as the rock is quite broken, but what there are are generally good and the crag is rarely crowded.

Take the Kamoshika Course to the waterfall and turn right at the big boulder onto the Panorama Course. Follow the path for 250m and turn left at the first prominent cairn (as for Soramame Slab). Follow the path to Okusan Slab then follow a less distinct path up the gully on its right. This leads in five steep minutes to the slanting sidewall of the southwest face, which contains all of the routes described here. It should take about 35 minutes.
Routes are described from left to right, as approached. The broad open corner of Nanryou Kanagawa Route pitch 1 is immediately obvious.
It is also possible to get here by following a path down into the gully from the start of Jet Stream.
While you're up here, follow the path up to the col then go right a few metres and up to a rock podium (this eventually leads to the top of Yane Nihou). This is a good spot for photos of Meltdown, and gives you an almost full-on view of the huge back (northwest) face of Yane Sanpou. Anything north of the col is somebody else's property and climbing is not allowed. What a waste.

Yane Sanpou

Nanryou Kanagawa Route - South Ridge Kanagawa Route 5.8*** 135m
A nice long stroll in a pleasant situation, but a bit too broken. Take a rack to back up the old pegs and bolts, and plenty of slings.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Climb the slab just left of the corner, with help and gear in the corner, to belay at a big tree on a good ledge. Take care with loose rock near the top.
Pitch 2. 5.4 Follow the tree-filled ramp up leftwards to belay on the last decent tree (easily combined with Pitch 1).
Pitch 3. 5.8 Climb good cracks and flakes left and up to another tree belay on a good ledge. Slightly harder and less pleasant since a tree and flake popped in 2003.
Pitch 4. 5.8 The crux thrutch pitch. Climb the chimney behind the belay to a tree. Climb the continuation short crack to belay at a tree on a spacious terrace.
Pitch 5. 5.5 Walk back a bit and climb over a dead tree (if it's still there) and broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back.
Descend by scrambling down and right (facing in) to a gully. There is an ab point on trees here (60m), but be very careful not to knock anything down. You can split the ab at trees on the way down. It is also possible (but not recommended) to drop down the gully to the sloping ledges above Meltdown. From here, you can ab from the Meltdown anchor (40m, additional anchor at 20m) or continue in the same line (right, not down!) to the col between Yanes 2 and 3. It looks like some trees have pulled on these ledges, so be prepared to rope up or ab, as required.

Sunday Crack 5.9* 11m
The disjointed cracks leading right out of the second pitch of Nanryou Kanagawa Route. You'll need some big gear.
Start at the top of Nanryou Kanagawa Route pitch 1. Climb the discontinuous crack behind the belay. At its top move right to another crack and climb this to a bolt belay on Nanryou Lemon Route. The rock could be better.
Descend by abbing the route. Alternatively, finish up Nanryou Lemon Route.

Nanryou Lemon Route - South Ridge Lemon Route 5.10a*** 150m
Another long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route (if you dodge the third pitch). The traverse on Pitch 2 can be intimidating. Take a rack with plenty of Friends #3 and #4 for Pitch 3.
Pitch 1. 5.7 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route, climb the corner, mainly on the slab. Belay on a small square ledge on the right.
Pitch 2. 5.7 Think about your second! From behind the belay, step right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the dirty continuation crack and slab to belay in the welcoming arms of a waiting pine.
Pitch 3. 5.10a Step left from the belay to the prominent crack. This starts off awkward and then gets thrutchy. There is a baffling bolt at 10m. You can avoid this crack by following the original line up the amazing tree roots on the right then heading back left.
Pitch 4. 5.7 Climb the short arete behind the summit then scramble easily back to a col with an ab point on a tree below a crumbling slab.
Pitch 5. 5.5 Pick the easiest line up the slabs and crevices to the top.
If you go to the summit, descend as for Nanryou Kanagawa Route. Alternatively ab from the top of Pitch 4 (50m, tree at 25m). Whichever you choose, be careful as there may be people climbing below.

Tranquiliser 5.11c** 27m
The rib running right out of the initial corner of Nanryou Kanagawa Route.
Pull right out of the corner to gain a white scoop in the rib. Tricky moves up and out of this lead to a small ledge on the arete. Baffling moves lead up and right to a bolt belay. Ab/lower off.

J.M.C.C. Route 5.9** 28m
The shallow corner right of Tranquiliser has a nasty start and is hard for the grade. You can protect the first clip with a Friend #4.
Pull out left from the corner to a big flake, then climb direct on big holds till they run out at a steeper section. Pull out diagonally right to join Doushikai Route above its steep section. Finish as for Doushikai Route. The direct finish from the steeper section is 5.10c. Ab/lower off (60m rope required to get down in one).

Doushikai Route - The Kindred Spirit Association Route 5.10b** 26m
Couldn't do much with the name. A very pleasant pitch just before the rock gets seriously vegetated.
Start a step up and right of J.M.C.C. Route. Step off a boulder onto a short dike. Climb the narrow slab almost direct for 5m, then make a tricky move up to a good dike. Mantel and go up to a steep section on the left. This is juggy, but Friends 1? - 2? or a sling in a thread might make you feel better. Pull onto a sloping ledge, then mantel another dike and drift left to the lower-off of J.M.C.C. Route. You can just get down on a 50m rope.

The next three routes finish at an anchor above the line of Meltdown Direct. It's a 40m ab from here. There is an intermediate anchor halfway down to the left of the line of Meltdown Direct. It is also possible to scramble off easily to the right (facing in). Rope recommended!

Jellyfish 5.11d** 42m
A slightly disappointing pitch meandering up the expanse of slab to the left of Meltdown. You'll be wanting a Friend 1. An alternative (Summer 2000) aided start has appeared, which you might want to consider freeing.
As for Meltdown, climb the centre of the slab of rock leaning against the main face (possible belay at its top). Climb a series of vague short cracks leading left. From the last of these, step left and go up to a dike. Move up and left to the arete and climb this for a couple of moves (crux) till it is possible to go diagonally right to the Meltdown Direct anchor.

Meltdown 5.11b*** 34m
The central line was originally aided, many moons ago.
Climb the centre of the slab of rock leaning against the main face (possible belay at its top). Step right and make technical moves up to a dike. Mantel onto this, then climb to another dike on small, but usually positive holds till level with a bigger dike leading right. Slink off along this (though you might as well continue up the Direct if you've come this far - it's much better) to bold but easy slab-climbing leading up to an anchor. (The route originally continued to the Meltdown Direct anchor - 44m.)

Meltdown Direct 5.11b***** 40m
The obvious direct finish. 11 bolts in all.
Climb the original route to the second dike, then continue direct by some very fingery moves to an anchor. Superb, intricate climbing.

Brainstorm 5.11a*** 30m
The middle section of the line right of Meltdown was a long-abandoned (or unreported) project. I decided to finish it off. It's good!
Start a few metres right of Meltdown. Climb left of some shallow cracks to a step left onto a shelf. Follow the slab on perfect rock to mantel onto a dike. Crux moves off this lead to another mantel to join the traverse of Meltdown. Follow this to the lower-off.

Gaikotsu Biyoyoun - The Bouncing Skeleton 5.11a** 30m
A good slab route - low in the grade, but with some oddly placed bolts.
Steep, easy moves up a corner lead to a ledge on the left. Mantel boldly onto a ledge on the right and then make a wobbly third clip (you can reach from the ledge). Step left and go up to a dike (crux). Mantel onto this, step right and follow the right edge of the slab with the help of a shallow crack. Where the angle eases, pad carefully left and up to the Meltdown lower-off. (The route originally continued to the Meltdown Direct lower-off - 40m.)

Ebi no Shippou - The Shrimp's Tail

The notched pinnacle nestling between the tops of Yanes Sanpou and Yonhou. Much bigger than it looks from the campsite.

Approach up the gully between Yanes Sanpou and Yonhou. There is an old path marked in faded red tape, but if you're not sure, go to Buppou Slab, then just keep going uphill till you hit the col between Yanes 3 and 4. Ebi no Shippou sits on the crest with a narrow notch on either side. It should take about 45 minutes to get here. There are a lot of unreported routes in this area, mostly on poor rock.

Ebifurai - Shrimp in Breadcrumbs 5.8*** 25m
A great line, but hardly ever seen, let alone climbed, the wide crack on the west face is much more forgiving than it looks. Take any number of medium~large cams and at least one piece bigger than Friend 4.
Climb the corner on good gear, good jams and the occasional jug to twin bolts at a col below the summit. Ab off.

Timedrive 5.11c 25m
The face right of Ebifurai. Good steep moves, but the rock in the central section is disintegrating.
Start as for Ebifurai. Pull right onto the face then go up and diagonally right to a flake. Up this then back into the centre of the face to finish at a chain.

Yane Yonhou - Roof Rock Four

The next peak left along the ridge, again, mostly hidden in forest when seen from the campsite. Similar in character to Sanpou, and even less often crowded.
There has been a lot of new route activity in this area but, as is quite the norm in Japan, the first ascensionists are holding back the info until they've done all they can.

For the righthand section, approach as for Sanpou, but skirt the base of Sanpou to the left and continue along the path to the next substantial chunk of rock - less than 10 minutes from Sanpou. This path arrives where a large subsidiary buttress holds up the main rock. The first routes start up and right of here. For other sections, it's better to follow a marked path that rises left under Yane Sanpou (continuing to Gohou and Honpou), then cut back right.

Yane Yonhou Right

Rouman Hikou - Romantic Flight 5.11c*** 50m
The direct and impressive bolt ladder is now free. A very good first pitch, which is well worth doing anyway, is followed by a dirty, difficult continuation.
Pitch 1. 5.11a Start right of the gully leading to the top of the subsidiary buttress (up and right of the col from which pitch 3 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route starts). Climb an easy slab to great technical moves up a black face. The bulge proves to be jug city, and more easy slab moves gain a belay.
Pitch 2. 5.11c From behind the belay, climb direct up a crunchy steep slab then veer right to a wide, shallow crack. Climb this and the face to its right to a tree on a ledge. The steep final section has newer bolts.
Descend by abbing the route.

Harumi Crack 5.8 30m
The crumbly crack left of Rouman Hikou. Take a rack.
Climb the crack on crunchy but good holds and jams past assorted antique hardware to the belay at the top of pitch 3 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route.
To descend, ab the route. You could, of course, finish off up Nanryou Kanagawa Route.

Take-chan Crack 5.9 20m
The disgusting off-width right of pitch 2 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route somehow manages to be less pleasant than it looks. Take some big gear!
Start at the top of pitch 1 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route. Traverse right to the crack and climb it to its end. Climb the thinner continuation crack on good jams, then traverse left over easy ground to belay.
Scramble over onto the col and descend the gully on either side.

Nanryou Kanagawa Route - South Ridge Kanagawa Route 5.9/A1 or 5.11c * 200m
A long, 'challenging' expedition up the front of the rock. Rarely climbed, but the reward is a stunning view. Note that, in 2 attempts, I couldn't find Pitches 1 and 2 and did it from Pitch 3.
Pitch 1. 5.6 Climb the centre of the subsidiary buttress past a thread to belay at the foot of a wide crack containing a chockstone (at least, I think it's still there).
Pitch 2. 5.3 Climb the crack, usually by tunnelling, to belay at the col between the subsidiary buttress and the main crag.
Pitch 3. 5.9/A1 From the col, climb good flakes to a short crack leading to a dike. Aid the crack and dike (now free at 5.11c) to a nasty pull up and right into a notch. Bolt belay.
Pitch 4. 5.5 Climb parallel crunchy flakes to a slab and belay on Friends at the foot of a wide crack in a corner. If the drag isn't too bad, keep going.
Pitch 5. 5.8 Climb the corner to an amazing thread runner, then pull out right onto a spacious ledge and tree belay.
Pitch 6. 5.3 Climb easy ground between trees to belay at the foot of a black slab.
Pitch 7. 5.9 Clip a high bolt then make hard moves on crumbly holds to a tree. Step left and climb the slab on better rock to another good tree.
Pitch 8. 5.3 Scrabble up and over a saddle to huge ledges and belay at the foot of a short blocky crack. (Better to keep going.)
Pitch 9. 5.7 Climb the crack to the top.
To get down, scramble down over the back onto a track leading left and down to the big gully between Yanes 4 and 5. There is at least one rock step in this that you might want to ab. Alternatively, ab into the gully on the right (leading to Ebi no Shippo) and scramble down the gully to the col.
To the left, the line of the rock leads up and left to a bay under an obvious 'V' about 10m up. On the way up, there are a couple of bolted, hangerless lines low on the wall and one steep face route leading to a lower-off at 15m. Left again is a big crumbly recess with 2 unclaimed routes.

Knobby 5.10d** 22m
The steep slab right of the recess.
Climb the arete to the first bolt, then break out right up the steep slab to a lower-off. The crux is getting stood on 2 knobs in an almost-dike at 15m.

Crunchy Crack 5.10d* 20m
The crack near the right edge of the recess. Take a rack.
Start left of the base of the crack. Pull up then swing right and up into the crack. So-so jams and gear lead quickly to jugs and an easy slab. Climb this to a lower-off.
The next two routes start up a bottomless flake/crack on the right of a yellow wall with a black streak in its centre up and left of the subsidiary buttress. The crack leads to an obvious 'V'. There is an RCC bolt at the start of the flake and a peg in it.

V-Jijou Ganpeki Urakaidou - The Big V Bypass 5.10a** 50m
The right fork of the prominent 'V'. Take a bucketful of Friends.
Pitch 1. 5.9   Climb the crack to a bolt belay at the base of the 'V'.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the flake formed by the right side of the 'V', till, joy of joys, it becomes an off-width. Thrutch to a belay.

V-Jijou Ganpeki Hidari Route - The Big V Left Route 5.10b** 16m
The left fork of the prominent 'V'. Take a bucketful of gear.
Pitch 1. 5.9   Climb the crack to a bolt belay at the base of the 'V'.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb up and left under the overhang. Follow the crack to a chimney. Squirm to a belay.
There has been a lot of activity on the impressive face left of the Big V, but nothing reported yet. The left edge of the face features a line of wildly overhanging flakes leading to a mantel onto a dike. It looks very good. Left again is a cleft, and left of this is a small buttress with a steep base leading up to slabs.

Yane Yonhou Central

This can be reached from the crags on either side or from directly below. The rock is not that good and the routes look like they will become very dirty very quickly.

YYC1 5.10a** 15m
The rightmost bolt line has some neat moves.
Start up the gully below a prominent jug. Pull steeply up to a good ledge. Follow the right edge of the slab above to a lower-off.

YYC2 5.11a* 17m
The next bolt line has better rock but isn't as much fun.
Pull up to a bulge. Make a hard move to get established on a decent foothold above the bulge and an even harder move to reach good holds and the ledge. From the ledge, climb the central boltline with one very thin pull before arriving at the lower-off of YCC1.

YYC3 5.10b** 19m
The steep cracks round the rib to the left. Not sure about the line left again.
Very strenuous moves lead to good jugs and then an easing in angle. Finish much more easily up the slab. Lower off.

YYC4 5.10c* 14m
The steep groove 3m to the left.
After a dank, strenuous start, pull out left on crumbly holds and finish more easily at a lower-off in a tree.

Yane Yonhou Left

The two cleanish slabs round to the left of the main section. The first is easily recognizable by the long slanting dike of Noizuino. There are 2 unclaimed bolted lines on the dirty rock up and right of Surakan.

Yane Yonhou Left

Surakan - Slarete 5.10d** 13m
The right edge of the slab gets progressively more difficult.
Start left of the cave formed by a boulder. Climb diagonally right to stand on the boulder. Step back onto the slab and climb this, occasionally using the arete, to a ledge and poor lower-off. Sustained, with the crux near the top.

Europa Tour - Tour of Europe 5.11c* 13m
An artificial route with a hard start and easy but pleasant finish.
Start a fraction right of the dike of Noizuino. Climb direct to an overlap. The moves past the first bolt are desperate! Make a long reach and mantel to join Tokio '83. Follow this to the anchor of Surakan and lower off.

Tokio 83 5.10a** 50m
Contrasting pitches starting up the slab right of Noizuino. Take a rack. The start has been tamed by extra bolts.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Start up the dike of Noizuino, but at the first bolt, step right onto the slab and pull over the left side of an overlap. Continue in the same line to the ledge and anchor of Surakan. Belay here if you like having something to stand on, belay at the tree at the top of the crack in front of you if you're not happy with the bolts.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the crack, if you haven't already, to the base of the corner. Pull up and thrash up the corner to trees at the top.
To get down, ab the route (not recommended) or move over to the left (facing in) and ab to the lower-off of Noizuino, then ab again.

Noizuino 5.10b***** 26m
The long, left-leaning dike. A superb route.
Climb the dike all the way to a lower-off at its end (a 50m rope is just long enough). The crux is at a steep section near the top and the bolts are quite spaced by Ogawayama standards.

Sarada Mushi - The Tapeworm 5.10c*** 20m
The righthand line (the RCC bolts) up the slab set 50m up and left. Very enjoyable.
Gain the line by traversing in along ledges from the gully on the left. Excellent moves lead up and right into a small scoop at an overlap. Pull right out of this, then follow a depression back left. At its top, make a hard step left, then climb direct to a lower-off.

Funkorogashi - The Dung Beetle 5.11d*** 18m
The steeper lefthand line.
Gain the line from the left. Pull up to a small flake and make a tricky step left to a good foothold. Make a hard move up to gain and mantel a good, flat hold. Pull up then make the desperate crux traverse right into a scoop. Pull out right and make neat moves up right to join Sarada Mushi at its last bolt.

Yane Gohou - Roof Rock Five

The next Yane along, separated from Four by a narrow gully. More of a huge jumble than a single rock. Extensively developed in 2001.

Follow the main path along from Yane Yonhou. The first routes climb the small face just opposite the Sarada Mushi slab.

Comaneci Face

Short and atypically steep for Ogawayama. The routes are described from left to right. The correct crag name is "Kominecchi", but "Comaneci" makes sense to me.

From the main path along from Yane Yonhou, cut right (just before you hit the steep lower face of Yane Gohou) up a short steep slope to a bay. The face is on your left as you head up.

NewCom 1 5.9* 9m
The leftmost line.
Unsatisfying moves on big but spaced and rounded holds.

NewCom 2 5.9* 9m
The second line.
More awkward climbing to the same anchor.

NewCom 3 5.10a* 8m
The third line.
Similar climbing to NewCom 1, but with smaller holds. Finish at a small tree.

Shibainu Mine 5.10b*** 10m
The fourth line. Also known as Shibaken Mine, possibly the name of somebody's shiba dog.
Climb the face by good technical moves that run together nicely. Finish by following jugs to a tree and lower-off

Pipotto-kun 5.10d* 10m
The rightmost line. Quite serious.
Steep and technical moves to the second bolt, followed by a runout to the tree of Shibainu Mine.

Chuudan - Central Section

The upper central section of Yane Gohou, approached by scrambling up the gully between Comaneci Face and the lefthand slab of Yane Yonhou. Described from right to left, from the rib at the top of the approach gully (which then continues up and right to more new stuff). I've had a walk around here and done a few of the easier routes, but none of the harder ones, so treat the descriptions with caution.

Fuushi Kaden - The Flowering Spirit 5.11b** 22m
The steep line right of the main rib. Take Friends 1-3 for the top crack.
Follow a series of weaknesses up the right side of the rib to gain a hanging corner. Climb this more easily to a good tree.

Watashi no Keisha - My Inclination 5.11b*** 25m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Step left onto the rib above an overlap and climb the rib direct with a dink left at the top dike.

Takushin no Chikai - The Craftsman's Vow 5.11b*** 30m
The wide crack and face left of the main rib. Take a rack.
Gain the crack from halfway along the fixed ropes leading left from Watashi no Keisha and climb it to its end. Continue to another crack and climb it to a tree. Traverse right along a dike, then follow a bolted line up the face above to a lower-off.

Jungle Book 5.10b** 20m
The obvious corner/groove is hard to protect in places. Take lots of small to medium Friends.
Gain the corner from directly below and follow it to its end. Where it peters out, swing up and right to a good, if small, tree.

Roupaa e no Michi - The Road to Roper 5.12b* 19m
Breaks out of Jungle Book to climb the steep face on its left. Take some cams for the corner.
Climb Jungle Book to a scoop at 11m. Pull out left into the centre of the wall, then climb direct to a good tree.

Delius 5.13a*** 20m
Steep and very fingery. Highly rated by those who have done it (not me!)
12m left of Jungle Book, pull through the less steep part of the painfully steep lower wall to gain a traverse line leading right past a jug to the arete. Climb the arete with a final move left to a lower-off.

Gamera Iwa - Gamera Rock

The upper lefthand section of Yane Gohou, approached by scrambling leftwards up the slope under Chuudan. The first three routes start low down, the others require a jaunt through an adventure playground. Be careful because this is new ground and the 'path' hasn't settled yet.
Gamera is a Godzilla-type monster.
The first 2 routes start from a broad bare rock terrace which is accessed by walking (very quickly!) across a bridge of stacked boulders. There is a good tree to belay on.

Ryuuseichou - Hydra 5.10c* 9m
The short corner on the right is hard to protect. Take a rack anyway.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Irisu - Iris 5.10c* 9m
The diagonal line across the wall to the left. Take a couple of medium cams for the handrail traverse at the top.
Pull out left from a big hollow flake then step up and left to a steeper face left of a corner. Delicate moves up this should get you to a handrail. Follow this right to mantel onto a terrace with a lower-off. Yes, that green stuff is moss!

Plasma Kakyuu - Plasma Fireball 5.13d**** 18m
Supposedly the best and hardest of the new crop of routes up here.
Climb an easy corner till level with the terrace at the top of Irisu. Step out left onto the arete and climb it on its right to the top. At that grade, I assume it's very technical and a tad difficult.

The next lot of routes start up on the final terrace, gained by some devious tunnelling and an exposed pull. Be careful and, for everybody's sake, do your toileting before you go up there.

Mana 5.13a** 10m
The righthand line from the top terrace.
Start as for Kuuchuu Kessen. Step out right from the ledge and make a hard move up. Continue up and right then back left to the top.

Kuuchuu Kessen - Aerial Combat 5.12a*** 11m
The central line. Good, clean, fingery fun.
Start at the centre of the top face, almost at the right edge of the terrace. Step out right from the ledge and make a hard move up. Thin but steady climbing leads up and left to a tricky step left to gain the top slab. Finish easily.

Gaos 5.10b*** 10m
Great moves up the line just in from the left arete, but it's all over a little too soon. Gaos is the name of a monster from a Gamera film.
Pull onto the face at a flake, then go quickly up on jugs to where the face overhangs. Use a spike on the arete to help gain a good big pocket (crux), then pad carefully up the slab to a lower-off.

Kamera Iwa - Camera Rock

The blob on the left, separated from Gamera Iwa by a chimney. Routes described from right to left.

Kenkou Chimney - Healthy Chimney 5.7** 8m
The chimney separating Kamera and Gamera. Short but fun.
Back-and-foot facing either way to finish on either summit. A horizontal break on the Kamera side, about 2m below the top, takes good small cams (the only gear!)

Ogawayama Teien - Ogawayama Garden 5.11d**** 8m
The diagonal line across the front (south) face. Lovely, sustained, technical moves.
Follow the line - you'll get no help from me on this! Hard to onsight and easy to flash.

Yubi yo, Hada yo - Fingers and Skin 5.13a** 8m
The righthand line on the small face set a fraction back and left.
Follow the bolts - very fingery!

Konnichiwa Oppai - Hello, Breast 5.12b** 9m
Whatever. The lefthand line.
Start as for Yubi yo, Hada yo. From its second bolt, step left and climb a curving line to the top.

Yane Gohou, Shoumen Heki - The Main Face

Approach by following the path down from Comaneci Face. If you arrive on the lower path, you miss out Yane Four altogether. Routes described from right to left.

Kishio Crack 5.11d** 22m
Kishio is the first name of one of the first ascensionists. A good stiff crack climb almost on the right edge of the face. Take a rack.
Climb easily over cruddy rock to a big ledge at the base of diverging cracks. Climb the righthand of these till it fades. At the bolt, pull out right to the arete and go up to a lower-off.

Hand Crack 5.9*** 22m
Not the most imaginitively named route, but great fun and a soft touch. Take a load of medium cams.
As for Kishio Crack, climb easily to the big ledge. Climb the lefthand of these till it curves left to a lower-off. Excellent gear and jams all the way.

Jack Sanjou - Visiting Jack 5.12a*** 21m
The bolted rib left again.
Start down and left of the rib. Climb steeply up to the rib and follow it all the way as it curves left to a lower-off.

Omoi Kondara - Strength of Conviction 5.11c** 18m
The attractive lefthand groove (the central groove is unclaimed). The name is a pun that doesn't come off in English.
Gain the groove easily, then follow it with increasing difficulty to its end. A couple of steep moves gain a lower-off.

Zarame - Brown Sugar 5.11b** 21m
A good steep line, but keep the route name in mind!
Start at the left end of a diagonal fault (some might even call it a crack). Follow the fault up and right then pull out left and go up to a ledge. Step off this and head for the left arete, then jink up and right to a lower-off.

Yane Gohou Kabu Okuheki - Yane Gohou Left

A buttress up and left of the Main Face that stands out slightly from the main jumble.

Fujin Kuubo - The Unsinkable Aircraft Carrier 5.10b* 60m
Start at the toe of the buttress, at a fault hiding behind a cedar. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Climb the fault past a sling on a spike to a steep section. Clip a bolt then move left and make frightening moves to another bolt. Continue more easily to broken cracks and follow these past a flake to a good ledge and belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10b Climb the steeper and more confident continuation crack to the top - a good pitch.
To get down, ab the route or pull over the back to the base of Kamera Iwa and follow the adventure playground down and round to the base of the route.

The gully up and left of Fujin Kuubo has been dug out and stepped in rather temporary fashion. Immediately left of Fujin Kuubo is a project, and left again is another starting at an alarmingly leaning flake - if it's still there. Another step up left again, almost at the back of the gully, two routes share the same start.

Minasama no Haru - Spring Time for Everybody 5.10b* 17m
An intimidating, steep line, usually on good holds.
Take the right fork from the first bolt and climb almost directly as quickly as possible to the last bolt at the base of a wide flake/crack. Swim up this, possible Friend #3, then go carefully up and left to a lower-off.

Pankin Punkun 5.12b** 17m
A steeper, more intimidating line, with better rock but smaller holds than its neighbour. No idea about the name, but you can be sure it doesn't make sense.
Take the left fork. Make hard moves out left then straight up to an overhang. Pull through and continue to a lower-off.

The bolters were also at it up and right of Fujin Kuubo. The rock is very crusty and, if you ask me, which you do, the routes aren't very inspiring.

Kujuu no Sentaku - A Difficult Choice 5.11c* 35m
Indeed. Should you bother or not? Start by scrambling up to a short crack on the left.
Pitch 1. 5.11c Climb the crack and the bolted line above to a good ledge and belay.
Pitch 2. 5.11b Climb the steeper and more confident continuation crack to the top - a good pitch.
To get down, ab the route (it's almost exactly 25m from the belay at the top of pitch 1 to the bottom) or climb Himo Tsuki no Boulder.

Himo Tsuki no Boulder - Boulder on a String 5.12a* 10m
A boulder problem in the sky.
Start at the top of Kujuu no Sentaku. Climb the short steep face above the belay to a lower-off.

Eien no Tou - The Eternal Tower 5.11d** 25m
The slender righthand face. Take a couple of large Friends.
Climb the centre of the lower face to a ledge, then follow a leaning line up and right to a lower-off.

Yane Honpou Spire - Summit Spire

Difficult to distinguish from Yane Gohou from below, the spire is obvious once you're up there. Just two routes so far, but they're both quite good, and there look to be more on the way.

Follow the path up the gully left of Yane Gohou. The first route climbs the obvious crack in the front face.

Tsukigata Hanheita 5.12a*** 50m
Another good crack climb, this time with a hard finale up the impressive face. Take a rack. I'm told the route name is a person's name. Don't know who.
Climb the disjointed crack, easily at first, to its end. Sprint up and down the short steep face to the top.
To get down, ab the route (you'll need two ropes).

Yacchii Face 5.11d** 20m
The diagonal bolt line on the slightly leaning face to the left.
Follow the bolts strenuously to a lower-off.